【作者】 马金燕；

【导师】 王厉冰；

【作者基本信息】 青岛大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 手工编织是人类最早采用的织物制造方法,在人类文明史中占据重要的地位。随着编织工具的演进,它引发了机器织造；同时,部分编织技术继续得以传承和发展,成为工艺史和科技史中的一个独特的分支。对我国早期手工编织的研究,在纺织科技史和工艺史领域中均具有重大意义,但相关研究的涉足者极少,已有的研究缺乏系统性和深度。本论文通过文献和相关实物的分析,对中国手工编织的起源、早期发展及相关技术进行了科学分析,系统梳理了手工编织早期发展的轨迹,并就其技术演变进行了深入的研讨。论文参阅大量文献,并全面搜集了从石器时期至秦汉时期的手工编织出土实物,对我国早期手工编织技术的发展进行了分阶段研究。对每一时期手工编织的技术方法、组织结构及产品进行了汇总整理和分析,探讨并总结了编织技术及应用状况的演变特点及规律。以编织原理、组织结构为基础,结合手工机器织造的兴起和发展,本论文针对手工编织对机器织造的引导作用、二者之间的分化过程及传承关系进行了深入的分析。对于现有的一些错误的、或模糊的认识,本文也进行了探讨。最后,本文按照编织组织,将早期手工编织技术进行了系统的划分,初步明确了早期手工编织的完整的技术体系。对手工编织物及编织组织的命名、技术描述等方面进行了讨论,并尝试了相关术语的统一。在技术研究的同时,本文还对各时期手工编织的经济与文化意义进行了简明的阐述。更多还原

【Abstract】 Hand braiding is the oldest technique that human had used. It takes a very important place during the development of the civilization. As the braiding tools developed machine production came forth. At the same time part of the hand braiding passed and developed. And it became very unique accomplishment. The research is really meaningful not only for the history of the textile but also for the field of the arts and crafts. Though there are only a few people that had research the hand braiding. And the researches are not systematically and deep.Collecting lots of information, the work analyzed the origin of Chinese hand braiding. The work also packed up the evolvement process of hand braiding across the time sequence systematically. It displayed and analyzed the hand braiding one by one period. The work also researched how the enginery began. And it analyzed the connection and the differentiate.The work sorted and summarized the techniques, production and the developing process of the hand braiding of every period’s systematically. It discussed and summarized the hand braiding’s evolvement characteristic and rules. Began from the stone times when the handiwork weave began to the Spring and Autumn time. And at that time handiwork weave was at the height of power and splendor. The work also described the handiwork weave through a broad area. The work nearly described all the discovered graves all over the country.Basing on the weave principle and organize, the work analyzed the relationship between the handiwork and the machinery development in-depth. It discussed some of the wrong or faint understanding.At the end the work plotted out the hand braiding according to the weave. And also it investigated the technical development and itselves continuing. The work expounded the economy and the civilization meaning.As researching the technique, the work also expound the hand braiding’s economy and civilization significance.更多还原