【作者】 耿艳蕾；

【导师】 崔运花；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纤维工程， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 耕地面积的限制和石油价格的上涨,让我们把纺织新材料的开发的目光投向了再生纤维素纤维;而我国丰富的竹材资源和相对匮乏的木材资源,使开发竹浆纤维产品成为充分利用天然纤维素资源的一个有效途径。本文针对竹浆纤维本身的性能特点,进行了纱线和针织产品的开发和基础性能研究。根据竹浆纤维本身的结构和性能特点,设计并纺制了一系列竹浆纤维为主要原料的新型纱线。通过对这些纱线的性能进行测试和比较分析,得出各种纱线的适用性结论,并针对各种纱线的不同性能及适用性,设计了一系列针织产品。对这些针织产品的性能进行测试和分析,为后续的产品设计提供了必要的依据,并对针织产品的风格特点进行了重点的考察,通过主成份分析和聚类分析将竹浆纤维针织物按照风格进行了分类。通过研究得到以下结论:1.竹浆纤维的外观特征与粘胶纤维相似,纵向有沟槽,横截面呈锯齿形,有皮芯结构;从力学性能上看,竹浆纤维强度较棉纤维低,模量较小,比较柔软。2.通过对新型纱线的性能研究可知,外观方面,竹浆纤维高捻纱、紧密纱和赛络纱的纱体比较均匀,毛羽较环锭纱少,喷气涡流纺纱的纱体均匀度较差;性能方面,新型纱线的拉断强力普遍较环锭纱低,但是模量一般较高,尤其是MVS纱。此外,弹性方面新型纱线普遍优于环锭纱。3.纱线性能的主成份分析结果表明,竹浆环锭纱适宜生产强力要求较高,但是外观效果要求较低的产品;紧密纱由于具有较好的综合性能,可以进行多种产品开发;赛络纱外观特征优良,适宜生产外观效果要求较高的产品。虽然新型纺织纱线在力学性能方面存在这一些不足,但是在其他方面有其独特的优点,可以尝试使用新型纱线改善由于竹浆纤维本身的特点带来的风格单一的问题,使竹浆纱的适用性更广。4.竹浆纤维针织物的性能研究表明,在力学性能方面,MVS纱纬平针织物的拉伸断裂强力在单面织物中最好,在顶破强力上,同种纱线不同组织的织物一般遵循双罗纹最大,纬平针最小的特征,新型纱线织物的顶破强力优于环锭纱织物或与其相当。在外观保持性上,环锭纱织物的硬挺度比新型纱线差,喷气涡流纺纱织物的抗弯刚度最大;新型纱线的折皱回复性能和抗起毛起球性能也优于环锭纱。在舒适性上,环锭纱织物的透气率较好,而新型纱线高支纱的透湿性较高。在尺寸稳定性上,各种纱线的纬平针组织经过温和家庭洗涤法测试之后,纵向的缩水率差异较小,横向的缩水率差异较大,其中MVS纱织物的横向缩率明显高于其他几种织物。5.通过对竹浆纤维针织物风格特征的分析,将所设计的竹浆纤维针织物分成三个大类,其中所有纱线种类的纬平针组织都属于轻薄柔软型,高捻乔其纱组织和环锭罗纹组织属于中间型,除了环锭罗纹以外的所有双面织物属于厚重丰满型。更多还原

【Abstract】 Because of the constraints of arable land and higher oil prices, the development of new regenerated cellulosic fiber as textile material becomes a necessity. In China, bamboo resources is rich and timber resources is relatively scarce, so developing the bamboo pulp fiber is an effective method to make full use of natural cellulosic materials.Based on the performance characteristics of bamboo pulp fiber, the new type of yarns, knitting products have been designed, and their structures and properties have been tested and analyzed, several conclusions have been gotten as follow:1. The characteristics of bamboo pulp fiber are almost the same as an ordinary viscose fiber. There are grooves in longitudinal surface and the cross section is seeing tooth-shaped. The fiber is a skin/core structure. The tenacity and modulus of bamboo fiber are lower than those of cotton fiber.2. The research on performance of new types of yarn shows That the high-twist yarn and Siro yarn are more even than the ring yarn, the evenness of MVS yarn is poor ; the strength of new yarns is generally lower than the ring yarn, but the modulus is generally higher, especially the MVS yarn. In addition, the elastic performance of new yarns is generally better than those in ring yarn.3. The results of yarn properties principal component analysis shows that the bamboo ring yarn is suitable for the products requiring a higher strength, but less appearance demanding; compact yarn with a good overall performance, can develop a variety of products; Siro yarn is suitable for producing products with higher performance requirements. Although the new textile yarn had some deficiencies in the mechanical properties, in other areas they had their unique advantage; we can try to use the new yarn to improve the style aspects problem.4. Study on the performance of bamboo pulp fiber knitting fabric shows that the MVS yarn plain-knitted fabric has a higher tensile breaking strength in the single, in the bursting strength, the fabrics knitted by one kind yarn with different organizations generally have the minimum feature in plain and the largest in double-rib, the new yarn fabric have a higher bursting strength than ring yarn fabric or equivalent. In appearance retention, the stiffness of ring yarn fabric is worse than the new yarn’s, MVS yarn fabrics’ bending rigidity is the best; the crease recovery performance and anti-pilling performance of new yarn fabrics are also better than the ring yarn’s. In the comfort, the permeability of ring yarn fabric is better, while the new yarn fabrics have higher water vapor permeability. In the dimensional stability on a various organizations, through the family washing test, the trend in vertical shrinkage is different from it in transverse shrinkage. The MVS yam fabrics have a larger in lateral shrinkage than other fabrics.5. Through the style characteristics analysis of bamboo pulp fiber knitted fabric, the knitted fabrics can be classified into three broad categories. All types of weft plain fabrics belong to the thin-soft-type, high twist georgette and the ring rib are intermediate, and the others belong to the thick-full-type.更多还原