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男性双腋杖残障者西装结构研究

Research of Suit Construction for Male Limb Disableed Using Pair of Under-Arm Crutches

【作者】 张崇慧

【导师】 赵明;

【作者基本信息】 北京服装学院 , 设计艺术学, 2010, 硕士

【摘要】 在国家发展和进步的同时,残障人士的生活状态也在不断的发展变化。在部分领域里,残障者和普通人一样参与日常的社会工作,履行社会义务,在着装方面必然也要遵循大众普遍遵循的穿着规则,例如正式场合或部分办公环境下需要穿着西装,打领带。但残障者因在体型上与健全人的差异,致使他们对常规的服装有了各种特殊的需求。而西装作为合体、严谨的一种服装样式,对体型要求较为苛刻,给残障者的穿着带来了严重的困扰和诸多的不变。本文针对残障者的着装现状和社会需求,提出男性双腋杖残障者西装结构研究这一课题。采用实地调查、问卷和访谈等方式,搜集研究对象对穿着西装的意见和需求。根据调研数据,总结目前男性双腋杖残障者穿着西装所存在的问题;并通过实际的人体测量了解研究对象的体型变化,提出修正西装结构的部位,采用个案的实验性操作对其穿着效果及适体度进行评价、分析,最终得到适合双腋杖残障者体型需求的西装板型设计和修正方法。

【Abstract】 In national development and progress at the same time, disable person’s life have been greatly changed. Most of the physically handicapped persons has entered the community, and normal work and life. They also need to follow suit and wearing occasions dress in the right requirements. For example, they have to wear a suit in some occasion. They have a wide variety of clothing special requirements because of physical changes. But the suit as a fit, a strict clothing style, body shape variation for pairs of axillary stick wearing a normal suit disabled people unable to meet quite broad, beautiful, generous results.In this paper,aimed at the current status and needs of the community had made Man’s Crutch Handicap Suit Pattern Research of this subject. Based on the research data had made summary of issues with crutch handicap man’s suit; And through understanding of the actual anthropometric study of size changes in the structure proposed amendments to suit the site, ultimately making through case-like clothing in the actual operation and effectiveness of their dress and proper body to conduct the evaluation and analysis.

【关键词】 双腋杖残障者西装结构审美
【Key words】 Pairs of CrutchHandicapped personStructureAesthetic
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