【作者】 康辉；

【导师】 杨旭红；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 纺织材料与织品设计， 2008， 硕士

【摘要】 本课题研究的麻再生短纤是以黄红麻为原料,采用湿法纺丝加工而成的一种再生纤维素纤维,于2005年1月才正式投产。该纤维是继天竹纤维之后出现的又一种新型再生纤维素纤维。目前,对于该纤维的有关理论研究较少。本文首先运用纤维的检验方法对麻再生短纤的微观结构和基本性能进行测试。通过使用扫描电镜观察该纤维的微观结构为纤维纵向表面光滑有众多条纹,横截面里梅花型。用红外吸收光谱法作出的光谱图表明麻再生短纤和粘胶纤维的化学组成相同。同时对该纤维的基本物理性能包括干、湿断裂强度、断裂伸长率、比电阻、吸湿性等进行测试,发现该纤维的拉伸性能不同于天然麻纤维,吸湿性和竹纤维相近,优于天然麻纤维和棉纤维。参照抑菌还法、AATCC100法和我国的行业标准《织物抗菌性能试验方法》等对麻再生短纤、经过漂白整理后的纤维、染色后的纯纺织物进行了定性和定量检测,结果显示再生麻纤维的抗菌性对不同的菌种有选择性,经过漂白染色后的再生麻纤维及其织物对于某种细菌也具有抑菌效果。用残液法测定上染率、洗涤法测定固色率、剥色和溶解法测定染料和纤维的结合状态等这些方法对再生麻纤维进行染色性能的研究。主要研究了双活性基染料如汽巴克隆LS、FN型活性染料、M型、B型活性染料上染麻再生短纤的染色性能及影响因素,同时和天然麻纤维在染色性能上进行对比。结果表明再生麻纤维的染色性能优于天然麻纤维,再生麻纤维适合用活性染料染色。通过对影响活性染料上染再生麻纤维的因素的分析,确定了M型、B型、汽巴克隆LS型、汽巴克隆FN型四种染料的最佳染色工艺。在对纤维基本性能研究的基础上,对再生麻纤维进行试纺,确定合理的纺纱工艺流程和纺纱工艺,成功试纺出32~s、80~s/2再生麻单纱和股线。麻再生短纤具有优良的纺纱性能,可在普通棉纺设备上进行纺纱,工艺简单可行,成纱质量良好。根据再生麻优良的吸湿性、透湿性,悬垂性、柔软性确定合适的针织工艺,开发出纯纺再生麻针织汗布和涤盖麻两面派面料,经专家评定再生麻针织面料的服用性能好,风格迥异。更多还原

【Abstract】 The regenerated fibrilia resarched on the article was a kind of regenerated cellulosic fiber, which was made from jute and ambary and generated by the methods of wetspinning. It was produced formally in Jan, 2005. The fiber is also a new kind of regenerated cellulosic fiber after the bamboo fiber appeared. The theories about it were rare at present.The microstructure and fundamental characteridtics of the regenerated fibrilia are measured by the ways of the examination of fibers .the microstructure of the fiber was observed by the scanning electronic microscope.Result is that there are much stripe on the fiber’s smooth surface at the longitudinal derection and the shape of the fiber’s cross-section was quincunx. The curve of the regenerated fibrilia’s infrared abosrption spectrogram showed that the chemical composition of the fibeur was identical to that of viscose fiber. The basic physical properties of the fiber were also measured include dry and wet breaking tenacity ,breaking extensinility, specific resistance, hygroscopic cordition and so on. We concluded though this tests that the strength and elongation of the fiber was different from that of natural fibrili. We also observed that the regenerated fibrilia’s hygroscopic cordition was similar to the bamboo fiber and superior to both the natural fibrili and the cotton fiber.According to inhibition ring test, AATCC100 test and the test method of the fabric’s antibacterial propertywhich is a standard of textile industy in china, quantitative and qualitative measurements were used to examine the antibacterial property of the regenerated fibrilia, bleaching fiber,dying pure spinning fabric. The results showed the antibacterial ability of the regenerated fibrilia was selected to different bacterium. The regenerated fibrilia and its fabric also has the antibacterial ability to some bacterium after being trated by bleaching and dyeing.The research on the dying performance of the regenerated fibrilia was done by the follow methods: residual liquid method used to test the rate of dye-uptake, washing method used to test the fixing efficiency, stripping and dissloving method used to test the combination between the dyes and the fiber. Some dyes which have two active group, such as Cibacron LS reactive dyes, Cibacron FN reactive dyes, M reactive dyes and B reactive dyes, were employed to study the dying performance of the regenerated fibrilia and the influence factor on the dying. Dying processes between the regenerated fibrilia and the natural fibrilia were compared at the same time. The result indicates that the dying behavior of the regenerated fibrilia is better than that of natural fibrilia. The reactive dyes are suitable to dye the fiber and The fiber The optimum condition of the four types of dyes were determined through the analysis of the influence factors on the dying regenerated fibrilia with reactive dyes.Based on the study on the property of the fiber,we made a spinning experiment and determined the reasonable spinning process flow and spinning process.So 32s and 80s/2 yarn were spun successfully.The regenerated fibrilia has excellent spinning property as cotton has and could be spun with the common equipment.The spinning process is feasible and simple to the fiber.Moreover the quality of the yarn is fineAccording to the excellent performance of the fiber, such as hygroscopic cordition,moisture-penetrability,draping property,sofeness and so on,the suitable knitting processing parameter were studied. We developed two styles of the regenerated fibrilia fabric.they have excellent appearances and comfortableness.更多还原