【作者】 杨娇燕；

【导师】 陆国栋；

【作者基本信息】 浙江大学 ， 机械设计及理论， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 随着服装业对服装CAD要求的不断提高，二维服装CAD已经不能满足人们对服装CAD在直观性、立体感和穿着效果显示上的要求。三维服装CAD的研究工作引起了很多学者的关注和重视，并取得了巨大的成就。他们在三维人体测量、三维人体建模、三维服装设计、三维裁片展开等领域做了大量的研究并取得了一定的成果。然而服装CAD的设计结果只有通过裁片设计，才能用于生产，并缝制成服装。因此，在三维服装CAD系统的开发和应用中，我们不仅要研究服装CAD相关的三维设计，而且要研究面向三维服装CAD的裁片设计技术。基于以上思想和三维服装CAD中用户对裁片设计的需求，本文提出了三维服装CAD的裁片设计流程。在以往的裁片设计中，加入了裁片设计质量预测与评估、考虑织物特性的裁片设计结果调整及面向服装工艺的裁片缝边设计，使裁片设计更加完整和准确，同时提高了裁片设计过程中的交互性。本文第二章是裁片设计的基础，主要简单介绍了三维服装CAD中裁片获取方法，是本文研究工作的基础。虽然三维曲面展开技术尽量满足以下两个要求：裁片面积在展开前后尽量保持不变；裁片的边界长度及夹角关系在展开前后尽量保持不变，但一般产品设计中三维曲面展开为二维曲面中的变形是必然存在的。本文通过裁片展开前后的变形情况，来分析裁片设计中所产生的应力，并将此显示出来，作为用户判断裁片设计结果是否正确的参考依据。三维裁片展开为二维裁片时，并没有考虑织物的特性，这使得裁片设计结果与实际结果存在着一定的误差，本文在展开裁片上，加入织物特性，对裁片设计结果进行调整，得到比较符合真实情况的裁片。经过以上两个步骤设计的裁片，是设计成熟的裁片，但在投入生产之前还需要对其进行加缝边的设计。本文第五章详细介绍了缝边的设计方法及缝边的计算机实现方法。基于上述研究工作，论文第六章介绍了LookStailorX系统框架，并对系统开发环境作简要介绍，同时详细介绍了上述研究工作在该系统中的应用。最后，在第七章中总结了本文的工作，并对项目课题研究的发展前景从技术上和应用上作了展望。更多还原

【Abstract】 Along with the growth of rag trade asking for high quality GCAD(Garment CAD), two-dimensional GCAD has been out of date, since his limitation in intuition, third dimension and dressing vision. Three-dimensional GCAD has been arose many researcher’s attention and recognition, and they acquired enormous achievement. They have gave a great deal of research to these domain: three-dimensional body measure, three-dimensional body modeling, three-dimensional garment design, three-dimensional freeform surface flattening and so on, and have gained much achievement. But, only through pattern the design of GCAD can apply to manufacture and turn into garment. Thus, along with the coming of the implement and application period, we should go out of think 3-D Garment design only, but go into think 3-D design and pattern design base on 3-D Garment design.Based on these thinking and user’s needs for pattern design, this paper gives a new pattern design flow for 3-D GCAD. Add forecasting and evaluating technique for pattern quality, adjust pattern design result based on fabric characteristics technique, pattern hemming-stitch technique to old pattern design, make pattern design more integrity and right, improve the alternation of garment design.Second chapter introduces the method to get pattern in 3-D GCAD briefly, which is the base of pattern design. Although the flattening of 3-D garment freeform surface should satisfy two conditions as follow: the consistency of pattern area and pattern’s edge or angle before and after flattening, distortion of pattern after flattening is exist certainly. Through the distortion, this paper analyzes the stress caught by flattening in pattern design, and shows the result in order to give opinion if the design of pattern is right or not. During the flattening, no fabric characteristic was considered, which makes the difference between design result and real result. This paper add fabric characteristic to flattened pattern to adjust pattern design result. Here we get a right designed pattern after adjust, but we should add seam boundary to the pattern before it was produced. In chapter 5, the paper introduces the design method and computer application particularly.Based on these work, introduces the system of LookStailorX and the application environment in chapter 6. At the same time, introduces the application of these research work in this system particularly. At last, makes a conclusion to the research work and gives a prospects from the perspectives of technology and application, of this project.更多还原