【作者】 江少琳；

【导师】 王革辉；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 本论文主要研究纱线表面毛羽、羊毛处理方法和针织物的覆盖系数等对羊毛衫领圈刺痒感的影响，目的是指导男士羊毛衫领圈材料的选用。首先，使用放大倍数为400～500倍普通生物显微镜对10种用不同品质的羊毛纺成的针织纱线进行了纱线表面毛羽的直径测量和毛羽种类与数量的计数。每种纱线试样选取5筒纱，每筒纱观测10段2cm长的纱线，每种试样观测长度共为100cm。通过纱线表面毛羽的客观测量结果分析，得出毛羽平均直径、单位长度纱线上“粗毛羽”数量和“粗毛羽”数量占毛羽总数的百分比这三类指标，用这些指标对毛羽、端毛羽、圈状毛羽和端毛羽末端直径进行了描述。其次，在预实验基础上，选择了10名刺痒感评价敏感且评价结果重复性高的24～27岁青年男士。用上述10种毛纱分别织成近似规格的1+1罗纹针织物，并制作成相同规格的领圈。在温度为T=22℃±2℃，相对湿度为RH=55％±5％的人工气候条件下，进行了人体静态时和人体运动后的颈部穿着实验。通过配对样本的T检验发现，人体运动后，羊毛针织物的刺痒感比人体静态时有显著增加；在人体运动后，羊毛的防缩处理增加了66s羊毛针织物的刺痒感：在人体静态时，羊毛的防缩处理对66s羊毛针织物的刺痒感没有影响；羊毛的丝光处理对66s羊毛针织物的刺痒感没有影响；羊毛的丝光处理和防缩处理对70s羊毛针织物的刺痒感没有影响。在控制针织物表面覆盖系数、羊毛处理方法和人体活动状态等刺痒感影响因素的条件下，将毛羽平均直径、单位长度纱线上“粗毛羽”数量和“粗毛羽”数量占毛羽总数的百分比这三类指标与人体静态时针织物的刺痒感进行了偏相关分析，结果表明，末端直径＞26μm的端毛羽数量占端毛羽总数的百分比与针织物刺痒感的偏相关系数最大，表明端毛羽的末端直径比其它直径指标对刺痒感的影响都大，临界直径26μm是影响羊毛针织物刺痒感的一个非常关键的临界点，将末端直径＞26μm的毛羽称为粗末端毛羽。通过对影响羊毛针织物刺痒感因素的主成分分析发现，在人体静态时，有两个主成分，第一主成分命名为粗末端毛羽主成分，第二主成分命名为针织物紧密度主成分；人体运动后，有三个主成分，第一主成分命名为粗末端毛羽主成分，第二主成分命名为羊毛处理方法主成分，第三主成分命名为针织物紧密度主成分。纱线表面的粗末端毛羽比针织物紧密度和羊毛的处理方法对针织物刺痒感的贡献率大得多，它是影响针织物刺痒感的最重要的因子。在人体静态时和运动后两种情形下，粗末端毛羽的数量占端毛羽总数的百分比与粗末端毛羽主成分密切相关，可以作为衡量羊毛针织物刺痒感的最重要的指标。最后，在人体静态时，根据10种针织物的刺痒感，对这些织物进行聚类分析发现，它们可划分为3类，第1类针织物包括1#、2#、3#、4#、6#、7#、8#和10#，其刺痒感介于有点刺痒和刺痒之间；第2类针织物包括5#，其刺痒感介于刺痒和很刺痒之间；第3类针织物包括9#，其刺痒感介于很刺痒和非常刺痒之间，这3类针织物对应的纱线表面粗末端毛羽的数量占端毛羽总数的百分比范围或百分比分别为(9.2％，28.0％)、37.3％和60.0％。人体运动后，这10种针织物可划分为3类，第1类针织物包括1#、2#、3#、7#、8#和10#，其刺痒感介于有点刺痒和刺痒之间；第2类试样包括4#和6#，其刺痒感介于刺痒和很刺痒；第3类试样包括5#和9#，其刺痒感介于很刺痒和非常刺痒之间。这3类针织物对应的纱线表面粗末端毛羽的数量占端毛羽总数的百分比范围分别为(9.2％，16.4％)、(21.5％，28.0％)和(37.3％，60.0％)。通过粗末端毛羽的数量占端毛羽总数的百分比可以判断针织物刺痒感的程度。更多还原

【Abstract】 In this thesis, the influences of the yarn surface fibers, wool treatment and cover factor of knitted fabric on the prickle of wool knitted sweaters’ collars were studied. The aim is to give some valuable advices on the reasonable selection of wool for the collars of men’s wool sweaters.Firstly, 10 kinds of wool knitted yarns, which had similar yarn thickness and were made of different wool qualities, were chosen to do this study. The diameters of the yarn surface fibers were measured and the number and types of the yarn surface fibers were counted and recorded by using a microscope with 400～500 magnification. Five cops were well prepared for each kind of yarn. And from each cop, 10 snippets of 2cm yarn were measured. Thus, the total length measured for each kind of yarn was 100cm. Based on the analysis of the measurement results of the yarn surface fibers, 3 types of indexes (the mean diameter of surface fibers, the number of "coarse surface fibers" per meter along yarn and the percentage of "coarse surface fibers" in all the fibers) were put forward. These 3 types of indexes were used to describe the surface fibers, the surface end fibers, the surface loop fibers and the end diameter of the surface end fibers. Secondly, based on the primary trials, 10 young men aged from 24 to 27, who were suitable for the prickle test, were chosen to do the collar wear trials. The 10 kinds of yarns were knitted into 1 + 1 rib fabrics with similar tightness, respectively. And then the knitted fabrics were made up to the same size collars, respectively. Under the temperature 22°C±2°C and 55%±5% RH conditions, the collar wear trials were carried out when the men were at rest and after running, respectively. By means of paired sample T test, the results of the collar wear trials were analyzed. It was found that the prickle of the wool knitted fabrics increased after running. It was also found that the prickle of the wool knitted fabric increased by the shrink-proof treatment for 66s wool when the judges made their evaluation after running. It was also found that there was no effect on the prickle of the wool knitted fabric by the shrink-proof resin treatment for 66s wool when the judges were at rest. The shrink-proof chloride treatment made no difference on the prickle of the wool knitted fabric for 66s wool. The shrink-proof chloride treatment and resin treatment made no difference on the prickle of the wool knitted fabric for 70s wool.Thirdly, partial correlation analysis was carried out to find the correlation between 3 indexes (the mean surface fiber diameter, the amount of coarse surface fibers per unit yarn length, the percentage of coarse surface fibers among all the surface fibers) and the prickle values of the knitted fabrics given by the judges at rest. It was found that, the partial correlation coefficient was maximum between the percentage of surface end fibers when the end diameter is coarser than 26μm among all the surface fibers and the prickle values of the knitted fabrics given by the judges at rest. It showed that the end diameters of the surface end fibers affected prickle more than other fiber diameter indexes. 26μm was found to be a critical point for the prickle of wool knitted fabrics. The surface end fiber was defined as coarse surface end fiber when the end diameter was coarser than 26μm.Fourthly, by carrying out principal component analysis, two components were obtained for the prickle values of the knitted fabrics given by the judges at rest. The first component was named as coarse surface end fiber component. The second component was named as fabric tightness component. Three components were obtained for the prickle values of the knitted fabrics given by the judges after running. The first component was named as coarse surface end fiber component. The second component was named as wool treatment component. The third component was named as fabric tightness component. The influence of coarse surface end fiber on the prickle of wool knitted fabrics was much stronger than those of fabric tightness and wool treatment. It was the most important factor that influence the prickle of wool knitted fabrics. When the judge were at rest and after running, the percentage of coarse surface end fiber among all surface end fibers had a very strong correlation with the prickle of wool knitted fabrics and it could be used as the most important index to evaluate the prickle of wool knitted fabrics.Finally, the cluster analysis was carried out to find the difference among the prickle of the ten knitted wool fabrics. When the judges were at rest, the ten fabrics could be clustered into 3 groups: group 1 included fabrics 1#, 2#, 3#, 4#, 6#, 7#, 8# and 10#, their prickle goes between a little prickle and prickle; group 2 only included fabric 5#, its prickle goes between prickle and much prickle; group 3 only included fabric 9#, its prickle goes between much prickle and unbearable prickle. The ranges of the percentage of coarse surface end fibers among all the surface end fibers corresponding to the three groups are respectively (9.2%,28.0%), 37.3% and 60.0%.When the judges made their evaluation after running, the ten fabrics could be clustered into 3 groups: group 1 included fabrics 1#, 2#, 3#, 7#, 8# and 10#, their prickle goes between a little prickle and prickle; group 2 only included fabric 4# and 6#, its prickle goes between prickle and much prickle; group 3 only included fabric 5# and 9#, its prickle goes between much prickle and unbearable prickle. The ranges of the percentage of coarse surface end fibers among all the surface end fibers corresponding to the three groups are respectively (9.2%, 16.4%), (21.5%,28.0%) and (37.3%,60.0%).更多还原