【作者】 房超；

【导师】 王府梅；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 随着人们环保和健康意识的不断增强,天然纤维织物倍受关注。作为一种对环境友好的绿色生态纺织品材料,木棉纤维具有独特的薄壁大中空的形态结构,以及质轻保暖吸油、天然抗菌、吸湿导湿等天然的优良特性,纤维中空率可高达80%-90%以上,有广阔应用前景和市场发展潜力。但木棉纤维在加工使用过程中,会受到诸多不同外界环境因素对其产生影响,例如拉伸力、压缩力、热湿加工等作用,使原本具有的大中空度的木棉纤维被压扁。了解木棉纤维的大中空结构与外加作用力的依存关系,对合理使用木棉和正确设计木棉纤维加工的工艺技术具有重要意义。本课题主要的研究内容和结果如下：(1)用KES(Kawabata Evaluation Systems)-FB3压缩仪分别测试了干处理和湿处理以及外力联合作用后木棉纤维束的压缩性能,发现,潮湿和干燥木棉纤维束在压缩性能方面的最大差异是前者压缩功回复率低,即压缩弹性回复率低,在潮湿状态下反复压缩后木棉纤维束的蓬松度会变差。干燥和潮湿木棉束经100kPa压力持续15秒压缩后,蓬松度与内部空隙均有所下降。但干燥木棉束内部空隙和纤维圆中空结构的损失明显小于潮湿木棉纤维束,外加压力对干燥木棉纤维和潮湿木棉纤维的作用效果大不相同,干燥木棉经受外力作用后不容易产生塑性变形。所以,在纺织加工中若希望保持木棉纤维的圆中空结构,应该尽量降低环境湿度或纤维回潮率,而需要压扁木棉纤维或压缩木棉集合体时(如打包)应该提高环境湿度或试样回潮率。(2)通过模拟计算理想紧密排列状态下木棉纤维束的压缩厚度,与实际测试环境中木棉纤维束的压缩厚度进行比较,并结合扫描电镜照片分析木棉纤维在不同湿度环境和外力作用下的压缩状态,发现潮湿木棉纤维束经过100kPa持续15秒外加压力作用后,木棉纤维多以部分压扁的状态存在,外加压力明显降低了木棉纤维的中空度。结合木棉纤维束的KES压缩性能测试结果,制定出一种纤维集合体中木棉纤维中空度的间接测试和评价方法,核心内容是从众多指标中筛选出压缩比功、蓬松度、最大测试压力下厚度和可压缩厚度四项指标间接评价纤维集合体中木棉纤维的中空度。最大测试压力下的试样厚度越高,木棉纤维的中空度越高；可压缩厚度越大,表明试样中纤维间的空隙越大；蓬松度和压缩比功越高,试样中空隙率越高,蓬松度体现的空隙包括纤维间和纤维内的总空隙。(3)收集具有可比性的木棉混纤织物与结构相同的全棉织物,测试织物的压缩性能、截面扫描电镜照片、手感、透气性能、抗起毛起球性能和表面摩擦性能,发现,由木棉混纺纱织制的针织横机罗纹物手感蓬松柔软,织物所含木棉纤维的中空结构在加工过程中并未完全压扁,其制造技术可较好的保存中空度。木棉混纤梭织物的手感优于规格相同的全棉梭织物,且总紧度比较低的木棉混纤平纹织物手感都要优于总紧度较高的斜纹织物；木棉混纤织物的孔隙率高于全棉织物,而木棉混纤斜纹织物中木棉纤维的中空度相对较低；后整理拉毛处理工艺有助于提高木棉混纤织物的蓬松度,但会造成织物质量损失。当织物经向紧度高于50%时,木棉混纤织物随着木棉含量的增加,透气率下降,挡风性增强；木棉混纤织物中的平纹织物的抗起毛起球性能优于斜纹织物,且其抗起毛起球性略优于规格相同的全棉织物；木棉混纤织物与全棉织物的表面摩擦性能相差不大。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the enhancing awareness of environmental protection and health, people pay more attention to the natural fiber and fabrics. As a kind of green ecological textile materials, kapok fiber is a light fiber with an extraordinary thin-walled lumen, the hollow rate can be more than 80%-90%, thus very excellent in warmth retention、oil absorption、natural antibacterial wet conduction、moisture absorption etc, kapok fiber has the extensive application prospect.and market potential for development.But kapok fiber was affected by different external environment factors in manufacturing and applications, such as tensile strength、compression strength、thermal and humid processing, it resulted in the deformation of originally huge lumen. Understanding of the dependency relation between the round-hollow structure of kapok fiber and external pressure has practical significance in fair using of kapok fiber and correct design of its processing technology.The main contents and results are as follows:(1) Analysised the compression performance of kapok fibrous assemblies under dry, wet and pressure combined treatments by KES (Kawabata Evaluation Systems) handy compression apparatus. The results showed that, the resilience rate of wet kapok fibrous assemblies were smaller than dry assemblies, it meant the compression elasticity of wet kapok fibrous assemblies was not very good, its bulkness would get worse under cyclic compression. The bulkiness and the pore of dry and wet kapok fibrous assemblies both reduced after 100kPa-press-treatment which continued 15s. However, the pore among wet kapok fibrous assemblies and their hollow structure were easier to decrease than dry assemblies when they were pressed. The effect of external pressure on the dry and wet kapok fiber was different, dry kapok fibrous assemblies was not easy to produce the plastic deformation under external pressure. So we should minimize the environmental humidity or fiber moisture regain in order to keep the huge hollow structure of kapok fiber in manufacturing and increase environmental humidity or fiber moisture regain when need to flatten or compress the kapok fibrous assemblies (such as packing).(2) Through simulation analysing the compressed thickness of the ideal state of kapok fibrous assemblies,which kapok fiber arranged tightly, comparing with the actual tested thickness of kapok fibrous assemblies under different humidity conditions and pressure treatment and combinating with its scanning electron micrographs, we can see that, wet kapok fibers partially collapsed after 100kPa-press-treatment which continued 15s. The external pressure significantly reduced the kapok fiber hollowness. According to former compressibility tested by KES, an indirect testing and evaluation method could be established for the hollowness of kapok fiber. Selected four indexes to indirect evaluate the hollowness of kapok fiber, including compression energy、bulkiness、compressible thickness and thickness in maximum test-pressure. The thickness in maximum test-pressure stands for the hollowness of kapok fiber; the compressible thickness stands for the voids between kapok fibers; the bulkness and compression energy stand for total pore in kapok fibrous assemblies, which included the hollow in fiber and the voids between fibers.(3) Collected comparable kapok blended fabrics and cotton fabric samples, tested its fabric compression performance、section SEM photos、hand property、permeability、anti-pilling properties and surface frictional properties. The result showed, the rib fabric made from kapok blended yarn was fluffy and soft, the hollow structure of kapok fiber in the blended fabric was not fully compressed in weaving process, its manufacturing technology can be better for preservation of hollow srtucture of kapok fiber; the handy properties of kapok blended fabrics were better than the cotton fabrics which had some specifications, and the handy properties of plain kapok blended fabrics were better than the twill fabrics; the porosity of kapok blended fabrics were higher than cotton fabrics but the porosity of the twill kapok blended fabrics were relatively lower. The finishing process contributed to the improvement of fluffy of kapok blended fabrics, but could cause the loss of fabric’s quality, which adversed to the hollowness replied of kapok blended fabric; when the fabric warp tension was higher than 50%, the permeability of kapok blended fabric will go with the kapok content; the pilling resistance properties of plain kapok blended fabrics were superior to those of twill fabrics, and the pilling resistance properties of kapok blended fabrics were better than cotton fabrics which had some specifications; there was no difference in the surface friction coefficient between kapok blended fabrics and cotton fabrics.更多还原