大豆蛋白纤维机织面料缝纫平整度的研究

【作者】 常婷；

【导师】 方丽英；

【作者基本信息】 浙江理工大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2011， 硕士

【摘要】 大豆蛋白纤维是迄今为止由我国科技人员自主研发的,并在国际上率先取得工业化试验成功的纤维,大豆蛋白纤维织物因其手感细滑柔软、悬垂性佳、吸湿透气,与肌肤有很好的亲和力,所以广泛运用于制作高档床上用品、睡衣、西服等,但是在缝制过程中经常出现不平整现象,这是严重影响外观质量的问题之一。本课题就是针对这一情况,选取真丝/大豆、棉/大豆、毛/大豆蛋白纤维三类20种机织面料利用FAST和KES系统对其物理力学性能进行测试,接着对面料进行了缝纫实验,获得缝纫试样主观缝皱、客观缝缩的缝纫平整度评价指标,再接着对面料物理力学性能和缝纫平整度的关系作研究,找出影响缝纫平整度的内在因素,最后是改变缝纫工艺参数对缝纫平整度的研究,找出影响缝纫平整度的外在因素。在此基础上,引入各种统计学理论、回归分析、正交试验等方法研究上述对象之间的关系。本文首先对大豆蛋白机织面料和缝纫平整度的国内外研究现状进行了比较全面的综述,分析了国内外学者在此领域所作的研究、采用的数学方法和取得的成果,阐述了研究大豆蛋白纤维机织面料缝纫平整度的意义。其后本文测试了真丝/大豆、棉/大豆、毛/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料的物理力学性能,通过均值方差对比发现:(1)三类面料斜向的各力学性能均值远远大于经向和纬向,经向的弯曲刚度B值和成形性F值大于纬向;(2)真丝/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料的摩擦系数平均差MMD最小,棉/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料的剪切刚度G、平均摩擦系数MTU最大,毛/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料成形性F值、延伸性E值和急弹性回复角J值最大。接着本文利用pearson简单相关系数和Spearman等级相关系数重点测试分析三类大豆蛋白纤维机织面料的物理力学性能与缝纫平整度评价指标即主观缝皱、客观缝缩的相关关系和回归关系。结果表明:(1)真丝/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料的客观缝缩与该面料的物理性能几乎无关系,与力学性能存在较大的相关性,特别是与延伸性E、剪切刚度G和面料表面的粗糙度SMD关系显著,主观缝皱与该面料的物理力学性能关系不明显;(2)棉/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料客观缝缩与面料物理力学性能有较大的相关性,而且各项性能指标对客观缝缩的影响不一样,主观缝皱与面料的物理性能的关系较为密切,特别是与克重、厚度、表面摩擦系数平均差MMD关系显著;(3)毛/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料的客观缝缩与力学性能有比较密切的关系,与物理性能的关系比较小。其中影响比较显著的指标有弯曲刚度B、表面粗糙度SMD、平均摩擦系数MIU,主观缝皱与面料的物理性能有较大的相关性,特别是与面料的厚度T2存在极强的正相关。最后本文利用正交试验方法寻求影响三类大豆蛋白纤维机织面料缝纫平整度的缝纫条件,并找出适合三类面料缝纫的最优工艺参数,实验结果表明:影响真丝/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料缝纫平整度的缝纫条件从大到小依次为:缝线张力、线迹密度、压脚压力、送布牙高度,优选的缝纫条件特征为:缝线张力宜低为20cN-30cN,线迹密度14针/3cm,压脚压力和送布牙高度为一档即最低档;影响棉/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料缝纫平整度的缝纫条件从大到小依次为:缝线张力、缝线种类、机针号、线迹密度,优选的缝纫条件特征为:缝线有一定的张力为30cN-50cN,常用的40S/2涤纶短纤缝线,12号机针,线迹密度无明显规律;影响毛/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料缝纫平整度的缝纫条件从大到小依次为:缝线张力、缝线种类、机针号、线迹密度,优选的缝纫条件特征为:缝线有一定的张力为30cN-50cN,采用40/2涤纶长丝缝线能有效提高平整度,机针选择10号、12号均可,线迹密度无明显的规律。综上所述,本文比较全面的分析了影响真丝/大豆、棉/大豆、毛/大豆蛋白纤维机织面料缝纫平整度的内在物理力学性能和外在缝纫条件的因素,通过内在影响缝纫平整度的主要物理力学性能找出外在显著改善缝纫平整度的缝纫条件,这样有助于服装加工企业在三类面料的加工过程中快速准确的选择缝制工艺,控制服装缝制质量。更多还原

【Abstract】 Soybean protein fiber is by far by the independent research and development of scientific and technical personnel, and industrial test of the international community made the first successful fiber, it is widely used in production of high-end bedding、pajamas、suits、etc. Because of its soft and smooth feel, good drape, moisture permeability, and good skin affinity, but it is often uneven phenomenon in the sewing process, which is seriously affecting the quality of the appearance. The thesis is based in this situation, the writer selects three types of woven fabric, which is silk/soybean, cotton/soybean, wool/soybean protein fiber and uses the FAST and KES physical and mechanical properties of the system to test the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics on the subjective, the objective flatness of sewing and changing the sewing process parameters on the flatness of sewing. On this basis, the introduction of a variety of statistical theory, regression analysis, studied by means of orthogonal test the relationship between these objects.Firstly, soybean protein fiber and sewing on the flatness of the current situation at home and abroad more comprehensive review, analysis by scholars in this field study, using mathematical methods and results, described woven fabric of soybean protein seam smoothness Significance.Then the writer subsequently tests the three soybean protein woven fabrics,silk/soybean, cotton/soybean, wool/soybean protein fiber woven Fabrics physical and mechanical properties compared using mean variance analysis: (1) silk/soybean protein fiber bending of woven fabrics woven rigidity B, the smallest surface roughness SMD, indicating that the fabric surface is smooth, but the material more difficult Pressing stereotypes; (2) Cotton/soybean protein fiber woven Fabrics shear rigidity G, the average coefficient of friction MMD maximum, indicating that this more uniform fabric structure, and fabric material in the shop, cutting, sewing process easier; (3) wool/soybean protein fiber woven Fabrics Pleated extension of E and the maximum recovery angle, indicating that the fabric take comfort, and Wrinkle better performance.Then this paper, a simple correlation coefficient Pearson correlation coefficient and Spearman rank test and analysis focus on three types of woven Fabrics and subjective physical and mechanical properties of seam wrinkle, shrink the correlation between objective and joint regression. The results showed that: (1) silk/soybean protein fiber woven fabric woven seam shrinkage with the objective physical properties of the fabric almost no relationship, there is a big and relevant mechanical properties, eSpecially with the extension of E, the shear stiffness G SMD fabric surface roughness and Significant relationship between subjective seam wrinkle and physical and mechanical properties of the fabric of the relationship is not obvious; (2) Cotton/ soybean protein fiber woven fabric woven fabric objective seam shrinkage and mechanical properties have a greater correlation and the reduced performance of the objective not the same as sewing, sewing subjective physical properties and fabric wrinkle closer relationship, particularly with the weight, thickness, surface friction coefficient Significant mean differences between MMD; (3) Wool/Soybean protein fiber woven fabric woven seam shrinkage and mechanical properties of the objective a relatively close relationship, the relationship with the physical properties is relatively small. One of the indicators have a relatively Significant bending stiffness B, the surface roughness of SMD, the average friction coefficient MIU, subjective joint wrinkled and physical properties of fabrics have a greater relevance, particularly with the thickness of fabric there is a strong positive correlation between T2.Then again this also using orthogonal test method for three types of fabric for optimum sewing conditions, experimental results show that: silk/soybean protein fiber fabric is characterized by the optimal sewing conditions: the thread tension shoud be low, stitch density is 14-pin/3cm , foot pressure and feed dog height should be low; cotton/soybean protein fiber fabric is characterized by the optimal sewing conditions: a certain tension suture, commonly used 40S/2 stitches, 12 needle, stitch density, no Significant law. Wool/soybean protein fiber fabric is characterized by the optimal sewing conditions: a certain tension suture, suture can improve the use of filament formation, 12 the following machine needle, stitch density, no obvious pattern. In summary, this more comprehensive analysis of the impact of silk/soybean, cotton/soybean, wool/soybean protein fiber woven fabric woven seam smoothness inherent physical and mechanical properties and conditions of the external factors of sewing, sewing through the formation of internal influence degree to identify the main external physical and mechanical properties Significantly improved the sewing seam smoothness conditions, which will help garment processing enterprises in the processing of three types of fabric quickly and accurately select the sewing process, control the quality of garment sewing.更多还原