【作者】 程相云；

【导师】 张佩华；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2011， 硕士

【摘要】 羊毛是一种高档的天然纺织纤维,它具有许多优良服用舒适性。长期以来,羊毛在针织产品上的应用主要突出其保暖性和弹性,多被用于中厚型秋冬季服饰材料。随着细羊毛纤维和高支羊毛纱线制备技术的提高,人们对羊毛服用性能研究不断深入,逐步认识到羊毛织物具有的高吸湿性、吸湿不粘体和凉爽感等特性,使高支羊毛纱线适于夏季服装产品开发,且在一些服用性能方面优于夏季常用棉织物。但是,针对夏季人体出汗多,不同湿度环境下羊毛吸湿后的基础性能变化研究还较少。本文选用两种羊毛纱线以及相对应的对比棉纱线做为原料,在不同湿度环境下测试探讨了不同湿度对羊毛和棉纱线直径、抗弯刚度、弹性回复率、切向压缩回弹性的影响。实验发现：与棉纱线相比,羊毛纱线在不同吸湿条件下,纱线直径变化幅度较小,膨胀不显著,抗弯刚度较低,手感更为柔软舒适,断裂伸长率较大,且随湿度增加而有增大趋势,弹性回复率很好,在湿态下仍具有良好的压缩回弹性能。将四种纱线在相同工艺条件下编织平针、双罗纹织物。实验测试和对比分析羊毛、棉针织物在不同吸湿条件下的透气性、透湿性、表面水分布量、抗弯刚度、压缩回弹性和折皱回复性能。实验结果表明：羊毛针织物在不同吸湿条件下的透气性明显优于棉针织物,透湿性较优于棉针织物,表面水分布量比棉针织物少,且具有较好的抗弯刚度、压缩回弹性和折皱回复性能。模糊数学是用数学方法揭示模糊事物内部之间的数量关系,利用模糊综合评判对多种因素所影响的事物或现象进行总的评判,更加客观合理。本文引入了模糊数学综合评判法,综合评判羊毛针织物和棉针织物的热湿舒适性能。文中选取织物透气量、透湿性、抗弯刚度、压缩回弹率、折皱回复角为因素集对两种不同用途针织物进行综合评判。评判结果：羊毛针织物在湿舒适性综合性能上优于棉织物,尤其是高支数轻薄型羊毛织物的性能优异显著。因此,轻薄型的羊毛针织物是一种理想的夏季服用面料,有很大的开发前景。但对四种织物用于不同服装的判断结果有差异性。在开发羊毛针织物的过程中要考虑具体的用途,对不同用途服饰要做新一轮的权重调查计算来进行综合评判,以判断开发的可行性。更多还原

【Abstract】 Wool is a natural textile fiber, and wearing comfortable of wool is well. For a long time, warmth and flexibility are concerned more when producing wearing knitted fabrics by wool, so wool fabrics are often used on thick clothing in autumn and winter. With the development of production on fine count of wool fiber and yarn, and in-depth study on wool clothe comfortable, people become realized that fine wool yarn is also suitable for summer clothing, even some features better than cotton fabric which is often used on summer clothing, because wool fabric has many good properties such like high moisture absorption, non-stick body, cool sense etc. However, for the summer, the human body sweat easily, there is less study focus on the properties of wool knitted fabrics under different moisture absorption situation.This paper choice two kind of wool yarn and two contrast cotton yarn, test and analyze the influence of different humidity on wool and cotton yarn, including diameter, bending rigidity, elastic recovery and tangential compression-recovery etc. Compared with cotton yarn, experimental results showed that, under different moisture absorption, the diameter of wool yarn changed little and not obvious, bending rigidity is low and the feeling of wool is more soft and comfortable, elongation at fracture is high and become growth with the increasing of humidity, elastic recovery is excellent even under wet station.The four types of yarn were knitted to plain and interlock fabrics respectively. Moisture comfort properties of wool and cotton knitted fabrics under different moisture absorption conditions were tested and analyzed, such as air & moisture permeability, quantity of surface water, bend rigidity, compression-recovery and wrinkle recoverability etc. Results showed that the wool knitted fabric is quite well in air permeability, slightly well in moisture permeability, also superior to cotton knitted fabric in bend rigidity, compression-recovery and wrinkle recoverability, but poor in quantity of surface water.The fuzzy mathematics was introduced to evaluate comprehensively the properties of wool knitted fabrics with mathematical methods, fuzzy mathematics can be drawn quantitative relationship between the internal. It is more objective and reasonable when use fuzzy mathematics to evaluate comprehensively the properties or influence of things. In this paper, comprehensive evaluation system method of the fuzzy mathematics was used to evaluate both the wool and cotton knitted fabrics’comfort performance. The factors such as air & moisture permeability, bend rrigidity, compression-recovery and wrinkle recoverability were selected to evaluate comprehensively two kinds of fabric. Evaluation results indicate that the comprehensive performance of wool knitted fabric under wet situation is better than cotton knitted fabric. In particular, fine count wool knitted fabric’s performance was significant. However, the evaluation results of the two kind of knitted fabrics is different, comprehensive evaluation should be done agine for different purposes before developing a new kind of wool knitted products.更多还原