【作者】 范盈；

【导师】 谢良；

【作者基本信息】 福建师范大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 唐代是中华民族大融合的鼎盛时期,政治、经济、文化兼容并蓄。反映在服饰上广纳各民族精华,呈现开放、包容、博大的特质。这一时期的妇女服饰发展到一个顶峰,在中国服饰变迁中极具代表性。因此对唐代襦裙装进行有针对性的、系统的个案研究,显然具有重要的意义与必要性。本文以唐代襦裙装为研究对象,对唐代各个时期的妇女所着的襦裙装的款式进行研究。首先从史论角度界定了有关唐代襦裙装的相关概念。介绍了与襦裙装相搭配的服装部件半臂、披帛的由来和概念的定义。阐述了唐代襦裙装的形成和演变过程。并对唐代襦裙装的款式和颜色进行整理、列表分析了款式和色彩的搭配特点。本文在总结前人理论研究成果及方法基础之上,采用了实验还原的方法,分别从唐代三个时期各选取一套具有代表性的襦裙装,运用平面构成法与立体构成法相结合的方法进行还原实验展开研究,得到了具体的对比数据。进一步验证了这一时期具有代表性的服装的穿着方法、穿着阶层,以及这些服饰产生的经济基础、文化、生活等方面的深层次原因。最后探讨了唐代襦裙装对后世影响和实际设计中的美学原理以及借鉴意义。本文通过以上研究,对唐代襦裙装有了一个较系统的、全面的了解。为更深入的对唐代襦裙装的后续研究提供了一个理论基础和参考路径。更多还原

【Abstract】 Tang Dynasty was a period of great prosperity, with politics, economy and culture inclusiveness. The apparel and accessories in this period learned from the advantages of apparel and accessories of every nation. The female apparel in this period reached a peak, and was most representative during the transition of apparel and accessories in China. Therefore, it was most significant and necessary to research on Ruqun in Tang Dynasty.Ruqun in Tang Dynasty was the object of study on this thesis, focusing on the style of Ruqun in every period of Tang Dynasty. First of all, the concepts about Ruqun in Tang Dynasty were explained, and the assembly of Ruqun of Tang Dynasty, such as sleeve, hanging silk, were also introduction. And then, the origin and development of Ruqun in Tang Dynasty was stated. Meanwhile, the matching characteristic of style and color was analyzed in the form of listing, through arranging the style and color of Ruqun in Tang Dynasty. The data of Ruqun were obtained, by the way of reduction assay, by which there representative styles from three different period of Tang Dynasty were chosen and reduced through 2D and 3D composition. After that, the dressing methods and social stratum of this period was proved, and the deeper reasons such as economy basis, culture and living were discussed. Finally, how to application Ruqun of Tang Dynasty in modern fashion design was discussed. Through research mentioned above, the awareness of Ruqun in Tang Dynasty was acquainted deeply, supplying theory basis and reference way for subsequent research.更多还原