【作者】 俞玲玲；

【导师】 金子敏；

【作者基本信息】 浙江理工大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 本文根据对牛奶蛋白、竹浆、天丝、莫代尔等多种纤维性能特征的了解,选用了牛奶蛋白/莫代尔/羊毛/绢丝(40/40/10/10)、牛奶蛋白/莫代尔/长绒棉/羊毛(40/30/20/10)、牛奶蛋白/天丝/竹浆纤维(40/30/30)、牛奶蛋白/竹浆纤维/PLA/羊毛(40/20/20/20)、牛奶蛋白/PLA/粘胶/天丝/绵羊绒(40/15/20/15/10)这5种多组份混纺纱线并选用了两种不同粗细的棉纱作为一个测试比较和依据的标准。首先为了能很好的体现和分析多组份纱线及其织物的性能,在确定经线密度、经线原料和织物组织的情况下,试样织物采用相似模化设计法中的以相对总紧密率为主要设计目标的相似设计法,设计不同组织结构的纬线密度,同一种纬纱织制得到平纹、2/2斜纹、8枚缎纹三种不同组织的试样,试样的织物相对总紧密率一致。其次对牛奶、竹浆、天丝等多组份混纺织物的各项机械性能和织物风格进行了研究和分析,结果表明含有竹浆纤维的纱线和织物的强度明显降低。混纺纱线含有绢丝的织物的抗皱性能较差,含有牛奶蛋白、莫代尔、天丝等原料的混纺纱线的织物相对比较柔软。服用性能方面,牛奶蛋白/莫代尔/羊毛/绢丝混纺织物比较柔软、丰厚,织物的成型性与棉相近。牛奶蛋白/莫代尔/长绒棉/羊毛混纺织物的柔软度与棉接近,成型性比棉好。牛奶蛋白/天丝/竹浆纤维混纺织物比棉柔软,手感爽滑,纱线之间较易发生滑移。牛奶蛋白/竹浆纤维/PLA/羊毛混纺织物的成型性较好,但是手感较硬。牛奶蛋白/PLA/粘胶/天丝/绵羊绒混纺织物的手感和织物成型性都与棉接近,整体的风格接近于棉。最后,对多组份混纺织物的热湿舒适性能进行了测试与分析,包括织物的透气性、保暖性、输水性和透湿性的测试。牛奶、竹浆、天丝等多组份混纺织物的透气性比棉纱织物好,保暖性比棉差易于散热,输水性远好于棉纱织物,透湿性也远好于棉。在对这些性能进行分析的基础上,采用灰色关联度分析法,对多组份混纺织物的热湿舒适性进行综合评判,从而得出本文中的试样织物热湿舒适性最好的是牛奶蛋白/竹浆纤维/PLA/羊毛这种混纺织物。通过对混纺织物的热湿舒适性能的研究,了解到牛奶、竹浆、天丝等多组份混纺面料都具有很好的热湿舒适性,比较适合用于春夏季服饰。更多还原

【Abstract】 Based on understanding performance characteristics of milk protein fiber, bamboo pulp fiber, tencel, modal fibers etc. To use milk protein fiber/ modal/ wool/ silk (40/40/10/10), milk protein fiber/ modal/ long-staple cotton/ wool (40/30/20/10), milk protein fiber/ tencel/ bamboo pulp fiber (40/30/30), milk protein fiber/ bamboo pulp fiber/ PLA/ wool (40/20/20/20), milk protein fiber/ PLA/ viscose/ tencel/ sheep cashmere (40/15/20/15/10), which five kinds of multi-component blended yarn. And select two different yarn fineness of the cotton yarn, as a standard of test comparison and basis.First of all, In order to reflect and analysis of multi-component yarn and fabric properties very well, in determining the warp density, warp of raw materials and fabric case, Sample fabrics are similar to design, the sample fabrics are adapting the similar design method is part of similar model-based design method, design the different weft density of fabric structure. weaving plain weave, 2/2 twill and eight heddle satin ,samples of three different organizations using the same kind of weft.Second, the thesis researches and analyzes milk protein fiber, bamboo pulp fiber, tencel etc. multi-component fabric’s physical performances and wearability. Results show that yarn and fabric containing bamboo pulp fiber, its strength decreased significantly. Yarn and fabric containing silk, its anti-wrinkle performance is poor, containing milk protein, Modal, Tencel blended yarn, fabric is relatively soft. In terms of the wearability, milk protein fiber/ modal / wool / silk blend fabric more soft and rich, its fabric formability and cotton fabrics formability similar. Milk protein fiber / modal / long-staple cotton / wool blend fabric with cotton close to flexibility, its formability better than cotton. Milk protein / tencel / bamboo pulp fiber blended fabric more soft and hand smoothness than cotton fabric, prone to slippage between the yarn. Milk protein fiber / bamboo pulp fiber / PLA / wool blend fabric formability very well, but it feels hard. Milk protein fiber / PLA / viscose / tencel / sheep cashmere blended fabric’s handle and fabric formability is close to cotton fabric, overall style is close to cotton fabric.Finally, the thesis mainly tests and analyzes the thermal-wet comfort of the blend fabrics, including testing the air permeability, warmth retention property, wick ability and water vapor transmission. Milk protein fiber, bamboo pulp fiber, tencel etc. multi-component fabric can breathe better than cotton fabrics, warmth retention property worse than the cotton fabrics, wick ability much better than cotton fabrics, also the water vapor transmission are better than cotton fabrics. Adapting the grey correlation degree, a brief evaluation had been made which included thermal-wet comfort properties of different kinds of fabrics.? In this article the samples which include milk protein fiber, bamboo pulp fiber, PLA and wool the fabric thermal-wet comfort is the best.Study blended fabric’s performance of thermal-wet comfort, learned that multi-component blended fabrics include milk protein fiber, bamboo pulp fiber, tencel and so on, which have a very good thermal-wet comfort, and more suitable for spring and summer clothing.更多还原