【作者】 黄良莹；

【导师】 张朋川；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 设计艺术学， 2009， 博士

【摘要】 魏晋南北朝是继春秋战国之后,中国历史上第二次民族大融合时期,各少数民族(尤其是北方的匈奴、鲜卑、羯、氐、羌)的活动非常活跃,最后由鲜卑族统一了北方。北朝起于道武帝拓跋珪建国称魏(公元386年),至公元581年隋文帝杨坚建立隋朝为止,历时一百九十五年,包括北魏、东魏、北齐、西魏、北周五个王朝。由于北魏政权的建立者鲜卑拓跋部,是中国历史上少数入主中原而建立政权的游牧民族,因而北朝成为汉民族和鲜卑民族,展现文化冲突与融合的激烈时期。同时,北朝也是中外文化交流兴盛的时期,自从西汉武帝派张骞出使西域,开通丝绸之路后,佛教僧侣、中亚商人、民间艺人络绎不绝大量涌入中原,并在平城、洛阳、西安、邺城、晋阳等地留下了许多文明的轨迹。在这动荡纷乱的时空下,其间文化的多元性及碰撞的深度与广度,均为前所未见。这些对直接反映物质和精神文明的服饰文化,无形中产生了巨大而深远的影响。历来史家皆谓北朝是中国服饰发展过程中,一个重要的分水岭,南宋朱熹就这么说过:“今世之服,大抵皆胡服。如上领衫、靴鞋之类,先王冠服扫地尽矣。中国衣冠之乱,自晋五胡。后来遂相承袭。唐接隋,隋接周,周接元魏,大底皆胡服。”由于鲜卑族不具书写的文字,有关其服饰的记载,多见于南北史中,诸如《宋书·礼制》、《南齐书·舆服志》、《晋书·舆服志》和《隋书·礼仪志》等著作,而其中记述多重魏晋南朝而忽略北朝,使我们对北朝服饰的认识严重欠缺。然而,随着近年来北朝美术考古的发掘,出土了大量的形象资料,弥补了文献史籍对北朝服饰的不足。北朝服饰研究的课题,尝试结合北朝相关的视觉形象与文献史料,重现这一段在中国服饰史上相当重要,却为我们长期所忽略的篇章。同时在这过程中,了解到北魏孝文帝的汉化服制改革,是基于政治环境的变迁,所采取的必然手段,而其所依循的是汉魏古制,而非当时与之对立的南朝衣冠,并从而确立了中国的冕服礼制。同时意识到中国中古时期的常服,是建立在鲜卑胡服与西域胡服的基础上,包括幞头、圆领缺髓袍、革带、靴子等配套成组的服式,甚而影响了唐、宋、元、明各代的服饰。从此以后,中国的服制就从汉魏时期的单一系统,发展成隋唐时期的双轨制。而这两套服制并行不悖,互为补充,是北朝时期胡汉民族融合的产物,对后世中国服饰的影响极为深远。更多还原

【Abstract】 The Northern Dynasties, from the fourth century A.D. to the end of the sixth century A.D. comprised Northern Wei, Eastern Wei, Western Wei, Northern Qi and Northern Zhou. This was one of the most transformational phases in Chinese history and the period in which the minority Xianbeis established its hegemony in China. It was a period of intense cultural conflicts and integrations between Hans and Xianbeis. Meanwhile, it was also a dynamic era of cultural interactions between the Western and China. After Zhangqian opened the Silk Road in Western Han dynasty, foreign monks, merchants, musicians from central Asian entered China in massive amount, leaving many historical sites in cities such as Ping Cheng , Luo Yang, Xi An , Ye Cheng , and Jin Yang. The fusion of Han, Xianbei and Western region cultures had huge impact on costumes, which reflected the cultures mentioned above both physically and spiritually.The Northern dynasty was certainly a turning point in the course of the history of Chinese costume as Zhuxi, a prominent scholar in the Southern Song Dynasty, pointed out, "Modern clothes, such as shirt with collar or boots, are mostly foreign clothes.. Our ancestors’ apparel are no longer to be seen. Traditional Chinese clothing entered an era of chaos during the Jin Dynasty. From the Northern Wei to the Northern Zhou , the Sui to the Tang, in each of these dynasties, foreign clothing prevailed." Since Xianbei had no written language themselves, the written record of their costumes were mostly kept in ancient Chinese authorized history. As the narration of the historical sources had been apparently more focused on the Southern dynasties than the Northern dynasties, it provided limited information about the costume of Northern Dynasties. Nevertheless, the insufficiencies mentioned above had been dramatically improved following the development of archeology and the fruitful result of excavation of additional visual materials. These picture materials contributed to the maintenance of donors in Buddhism arts, mural paintings in burial chambers, and pottery tomb figurines and so forth.Through comparing and analyzing these artifacts’ illustrations, combined with the documentary record’s substantiation on their existence, the image and the transformation process of the costume of the Northern Dynasties can be confirmed. The main point of this study is to reestablish a chapter that has been disregarded permanently in Chinese clothes history. And at the same time, help people understand the fact that the development of Chinese clothing in Northern Dynasties had been gradually diverted into two directions: one was inheriting the revised form of the ceremonial dress form of the Han Dynasty, and another was engaged in the adoption from Xianbei and the Western clothing, forming shirt with round collar and slit on both sides, the conical cap with back flaps, girdle and boots as daily clothing. These two different systems of dresses were the results of ethnical integration, which signify a pivotal change in the history of Chinese costumes during the Middle Ages and impact people’s daily wear for thousands of years.更多还原