【作者】 宋丙玲；

【导师】 刘凤君；

【作者基本信息】 山东大学 ， 考古学及博物馆学， 2008， 博士

【摘要】 服饰是人类物质生活与精神需求的综合表征,与社会政治、经济、文化、审美、风俗习惯等诸多因素息息相关,因此,不同学科、不同角度的研究方兴未艾。北朝是中国历史上一个大发展、大变革的时代。北朝服饰在整个中国古代服饰发展历程中具有承前启后的重要地位,但迄今为止,有关北朝服饰的研究工作却比较滞后和薄弱,这与近二十年来不断高涨的中国古代服饰研究热潮严重脱节。北朝世俗服饰系指宗教服饰以外的服饰。本文在系统梳理北朝人物图像资料的基础上,结合考古发掘出土的纺织服饰实物以及历史文献资料,对北朝世俗服饰进行分类、分期和分区研究,把握北朝服饰的整体面貌及其阶段性和区域性,并试图探讨产生这些时代特色和区域差异的原因。在此基础上,将北朝服饰置于当时的社会大背景下,探讨服饰演变背后的政治变迁、文化交流和性别体系,并从中国服饰发展史的角度探析北朝服饰的渊源以及对后世的影响,以期对北朝服饰的时代特征、审美特色、历史地位等问题有比较深入的阐释。本文共分七章。首先在绪论中对选题意义、研究现状、研究目的及思路进行了简要说明。第一章,北朝世俗服饰的分类研究。分类是本文研究的基础所在,涉及到古代服饰的命名、描述、演化以及搭配等诸多方面。笔者总括目前古代服饰研究的分类方法,并结合正史舆服志或礼乐志的记载,对古人服饰分类的方法进行简单梳理,从而对古代服饰分类的方法进行反思,并指出古代服饰分类方法需要与文章的研究目的相契合。在这一思想指导下,笔者首先根据人物图像资料所反映的服饰情况,将北朝世俗服饰按照性别划分为男性服饰和女性服饰两大类,为叙述方便又将军戎服饰和佩饰单列,然后按照人体着装部位的不同分别对头部、躯体和足部所着服饰进行分类梳理。在分类过程中,还结合历史文献资料对北朝世俗服饰进行简单考释。这是比较微观的分类研究,其重点在于对北朝世俗服饰进行系统梳理和具体把握。在此基础上,笔者引入“组合”的概念,对北朝世俗服饰的着装搭配进行简要论述。第二章,北朝世俗服饰的分期与分区研究。笔者首先对古代服饰分期和分区研究的方法问题进行初步探究,为下文研究提供方法论上的指导。然后在第一章北朝世俗服饰分类研究的基础上,结合历史文献记载对北朝世俗服饰进行分期及分区研究,把握北朝服饰时空特征。本文将北朝世俗服饰划分为三个发展阶段,即北朝早期(公元386～493年)、中期(公元493～534年)和晚期(公元534～581年),三阶段的划分正好对应北朝时期两次大的政治变迁:孝文帝迁都洛阳和北魏政权的分裂。这种服饰分期方案正体现了中国古代服饰发展的一贯特色:政治表征性。其中,北朝早、中期服饰特征表现出与政治中心平城和洛阳比较大的一致性;北朝晚期,服饰地域性特征比较明显,大致可划分为为四大区域,即邺城地区、青齐地区、晋阳地区和关陇地区。第三章,北朝世俗服饰与政治变迁。在古代,服饰是社会政治气候的晴雨表,其质地、款式、图案、色彩均受到政治制度的规范,同时也体现政治的变迁。本章紧扣古代服饰的政治性特征,从北朝服饰动态发展的过程探究其背后的政治变迁。共有三节,第一节探讨北魏政权建立初期鲜卑统治者民族意识的扩张导致鲜卑服饰的流行;第二节分析北魏太和汉化改制对世俗服饰产生的影响,涉及到太和服饰改制政策的实施、来源以及影响等问题;第三节阐释北朝晚期世俗服饰所体现的胡汉交融的特征,其中胡服包括西域以及北方少数民族服饰。本章最后,笔者又略作总结,并从传统礼仪角度略作引申。第四章,北朝世俗服饰与文化交流。服饰是人类生活的重要物质文化事项,其所具有的直观性、共赏性、普遍性以及呈外共睹的特点使服饰更容易开展文化交流,这表现在服装原料、服装形式、着装观念、饰品佩戴等诸多方面。本章主有三节:第一节探讨北朝时期以鲜卑族为代表的北方游牧民族与汉族服饰之间的交融问题,这涉及到胡化与汉化的问题。北朝世俗服饰中的胡服因素包括上衣下裤装的流行、左衽右衽兼行、带具的变化等,汉服因素则包括传统褒衣博带式服装对北朝服饰的影响、汉族服饰赏赐制度的继承以及对南朝服饰的吸纳等方面。二者相互交融,互相借鉴,最终形成了北朝独具一格的北朝服饰;第二节阐述北朝世俗服饰所反映的中西交流,包括丝绸技术和纹样、服装款式如圆领/翻领服装、具装铠、明光铠以及饰品诸方面;第三节分析北朝时期佛教盛行对世俗服饰的影响,包括披帛、发式、女性化妆以及袒右肩服装的兴起等。本章末尾进行简要总结,指出北朝世俗服饰所体现的文化交流主要体现为南北交流和东西互动,并简单分析了服饰交流过程中的特殊性问题。第五章,北朝世俗服饰研究的性别视角。服饰是性别区分的重要标志,性别也是服饰类型划分的重要标准,因此,对北朝世俗服饰进行性别探究是有必要的。笔者试图以动态的视角把握北朝世俗服饰反映的性别问题,首先选取服装制作过程中的纺织、染练、裁剪、缝纫等工序探讨女性付出的劳动,反映北朝时期“男耕女织”的性别分工模式;其次探究北朝世俗服饰的性别体系,包括北朝时期男女服饰的专门化、易装现象以及审美变迁。第六章,北朝世俗服饰对隋唐服饰的影响。南北朝对隋唐的影响问题是中古史研究的一个重要命题,而在整个南北朝时期,北朝服饰更能代表四至六世纪我国服制的变化。笔者主要从男女服饰专门化,品色衣制度,胡服风尚包括男性裤褶服、圆领窄袖缺骻袍、幞头、蹀躞带、靴以及女性襦裙装、女扮男装等方面进行探讨。由此可见胡服的先进性,以及中原地区作为政治、经济、文化中心地位的核心凝聚力。第七章,相关问题探讨。笔者对行文过程中未能全面涉及的问题进行简要论述,包括北朝时期丧葬服饰问题、图像资料所反映服饰面貌的可信度问题、北朝世俗服饰的设计问题、北朝时期大量军戎服饰的日常化问题。文章最后为结语部分,对本论文主要论点进行简要总结,并指出本文创新之处以及今后努力的方向。本文创新之处主要有四点:1.20世纪80年代以来,中国古代服饰研究取得了很大成就,研究成果多,研究队伍不断壮大,研究方法逐渐多元化,研究角度不断拓宽。但是,目前古代服饰研究仍存在很大不足,主要表现在多大跨度的宏观研究而缺乏微观研究。本文正是从这一研究现状出发对北朝世俗服饰的个案研究,并通过研究实践来反思古代服饰研究方法和理论问题。2.北朝服饰在整个中国服饰发展史上的地位不容忽视,但迄今为止,尚缺乏比较系统的研究工作。本文选取北朝世俗服饰进行研究,可以说填补了北朝服饰系统研究之空白。3.伴随着考古学的发展,大部分学者已经注意到考古发掘或调查资料在古代服饰研究过程中的重要性,但尚未有学者从考古实物资料出发,全面系统地运用考古发现和文献记载相结合的方法对古代服饰进行综合考察分析。特别是截至目前,长于物质文化研究的考古学界对古代服饰研究不甚关注。鉴于此,笔者从实物资料如陶俑、壁画、画像石、画像砖、供养人像、传世绘画等入手,结合历史文献记载,对北朝世俗服饰进行系统探究。这种方法的运用使笔者对一些传统观点提出挑战,并提出了一些新的观点和看法。4.本文对北朝世俗服饰的研究并不局限于传统的物质文化史的重建,而是透过服饰的演变,动态、立体地阐释服饰背后的政治变迁、文化交流、性别分工、审美文化及其相关的丧葬习俗、服装设计等问题。更多还原

【Abstract】 Costume and adornment is compound symbol of human being material life and spirit need, which is linked closely with lots of factors such as social politics, economy, culture, appreciation of beauty, customs, etc.. Therefore, it arouses scholars’ research enthusiasm from different fields. The Northern Dynasties is an era developing and transforming greatly in Chinese history. Costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties plays an important part in the history of Chinese costume and adornment, but current study is far behind the research upsurge of Chinese costume and adornment arose from 20 years ago. Based on personage image data, this dissertation attempts to construct the temporal-spatial framework and also discusses the reason of temporal-spatial differences, together with document data and material objects included textile, costumes and adornments. Furthermore, this dissertation discusses the political variance, cultural communication and gender system the costume and adornment reflected, and also concerns its influences to the following era.The dissertation consists of seven chapters.The preface introduces the significance of this study, the history and current status of costume research, the purpose of the study, and methods used in the dissertation.Chapter one concentrates on the classification of common costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties based on personage image data, which is the basis of this dissertation. Firstly, the author reconsiders the method of costume-and-adornment classification together with document data, pointing out that the classification should conform to the study objective. Upon this, the author categorizes the costumes and adornments into two types according to gender, but army costumes and adornments in single convenient for description, then divides the costume and adornment according to the position that human body dresses including head, body and feet part. Meanwhile, the author does a simple textual research in the process of classification combining with the historical document data. This is a comparatively microcosmic classification study in order to master the characteristic and evolution of the costume and adornment in Northern Dynasties. Furthermore, the author employs the concept "assemble" to discuss costume-and-adornment arranging.Chapter two concerns the periodization and regional distribution of common costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties. Firstly, the author discusses the method of periodization and regionalization in the study of ancient costumes and adornments based on the preceding research practice. Then the author divides the costume and adornment of the Northern Dynasties into three periods as the early stage (from 386 AD to 493 AD) , medium stage(from 493AD to 534 AD) and late stage(from 534 AD to 581 AD). The periodization is corresponded with two great political changes which are Emperor Xiaowen moving the capital to Luoyang and disruption of Northern Wei regime. The periodization project happened to embody the consistent political characteristic of ancient Chinese costume and adornment. Among three periods, costume-and-adornment characteristics in the early and medium periods show great coherence to that of political center Pingcheng and Luoyang, but regional characteristics are greatly obvious in the late Northern Dynasties, which can be divided to four areas as Ye city area, Qing-and-Qi area, Jinyang area and Guan-and-Long area.The third chapter centers around common costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties related with political variance. Costume and adornment was the barometer of social politics in the ancient times. Its texture, style, pattern and color must abide with the regime norm, and also embody the political changes. This chapter attempts to discuss the political variance from the dynamic process of the development of Northern Dynasties costume and adornment. There are three parts. The first part concerns the popularity of Serbi costumes in the early stage of Northern Wei regime. Part two discusses influences Tai He reformation brought to costume and adornment, including the policy, origin and influences about Tai He reformation. The third part concerns the blending of Hu-and-Han nationality costumes in the late Northern Dynasties. Finally, the author extends the contents from the angle of traditional etiquette.Chapter four concentrates on the cultural communication in the common costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties. Costume and adornment is an important material item in human being life, whose characteristics of visualization, appreciation and universality make it easier to carry out cultural exchange including raw material, pattern, dressing concept, adornment wear of costumes. This chapter includes three sections. Section one deals with costume communication between north nomadic and Han nationality, which refers to Hu spend and Chinese spend. Hu costume factors include the popularity of trousers, both left and right sleeves, girdle diversity, but Han factors involve influences loose costume tradition brought to costumes of the Northern Dynasties, costume largess inherited from costume of Han Dynasty and Southern Dynasties. Section two sets forth the exchange between China and the west, including silk technology and style, costume pattern such as round and turn-down collar clothing, armour equipped both the horse and person, Ming Guang armour and some western adornments. The third section analyzes the influences of Buddhism prevalence in Northern Dynasties to the common costume and adornment, including draping silks, hair style, female makeup, costume exposed right shoulder on the rise and so on. In the end of this chapter, the author carries out a brief summary pointing out that cultural communication embodied from the Northern Dynasties costume and adornment shows the exchange between the north and south, the east and west, and also analyzes the particularity in the exchange process of costume and adornment briefly.Chapter five is gender study on common costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties. Clothes and ornaments is an important symbol to gender division, and gender is also an significant standard to classify ancient costume and adornment. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out gender study on common costume and adornment of the Northern Dynasties. The author attempts to discuss the gender issue in a dynamic angle. Firstly, the author choose some working procedure such as weaving, dying, tailoring and sewing to discuss women’s laboring, which reflects the gender division pattern the men plough and the women weave in the period of Northern Dynasties. Secondly, the author probes into gender system of the costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties, including the costume specialization between men and women, transvesting phenomenon and the evolution of appreciation of beauty.The sixth chapter summarizes the impacts of common costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties over Sui- Tang period. It has been a significant proposition in the study about history of mediaeval times that Southern-Northern Dynasties had great influences to Sui- Tang period. Costume and adornment of the Northern Dynasties can represent the diversification from the fourth century to the sixth century. The author analyzes this problem mainly from the specialization of men’s and women’s costumes, color rank system, costume fashion of Hu nationalities including men’s frock-pant set, round-collar narrow-sleeve robes, scarf hat, Die Xie girdle, boots and women’s frock-skirt, phenomenon of women dressed as men. It can be proved that the costume of Hu nationalities is more advanced than Han’s, and Central Plains Area as the center of Chinese politics, economy and culture still has core Cohesiveness.Chapter seven discussed some relevant issues not expanded enough in the former chapters, such as clothes related to funeral, reliability of personage image data for studying ancient costume and adornment, design of Northern Dynasties common costumes, costume policy of regimes established by north minorities in Central Plains and the problem about some army costumes worn in daily life.The last part summarizes the main conclusions of this dissertation, points out the innovation points and problems needed to carry out further study in future.The innovation points of this dissertation read as follows. Firstly, study on the ancient Chinese costume and adornment has got great accomplishments since the 1980s, including lots of research achievements, expanding study team, the multiplicity of research methods. But there are still many shortages, especially the absence of microcosmic study. This dissertation is a case study on common costume and adornment of the Northern Dynasties conformed to the current situation.Secondly, the Northern Dynasties takes an important position in the history of ancient Chinese costume and adornment, but it is still short of systematic study so far. This dissertation, a study on the costume and adornment of Northern Dynasties, just fills in the gap of systematic study.Thirdly, with the development of archaeology, a majority of scholars already pay attention to the significance of archaeological data excavated or investigated in the study of ancient costume and adornment. But no scholar does the synthetical and systematic study on the ancient costume set off from the material data, combined with document data, especially archaeology field which is good at studying materials pays few attentions to the ancient costume study. Because of this, the author starts with the archaeological data to study the common costume and adornment in the Northern Dynasties.Finally, this dissertation is not confined to the reconstruction of material culture history as in tradition, but expounds the study from the evolution of costume to political change, cultural communication, gender division of work, burial convention, clothing design and appreciation of beauty, etc..更多还原