【作者】 沈雁；

【导师】 包铭新；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2008， 博士

【摘要】 回鹘是中国古代北方少数民族,是今天维吾尔族和裕固族的共同祖先。自公元8世纪始以独立的、具有较强军事力量的一个民族登上历史舞台,在我国统一多民族国家的形成中曾作出过重要的贡献。回鹘文化源远流长,绚烂多彩,在我国北方民族文化史上占有非常重要的地位,引起众多学者的关注。回鹘服饰文化作为其中一个重要组成部分,至今尚未被系统研究,尚无一部专题论著。在敦煌新疆两地出土的图像资料(以洞窟壁画为主)中,保留了大量的服饰信息。本文拟在前人研究的基础上,通过实地考察,重点利用晚唐、五代、宋、西夏至元时期敦煌新疆两地的图像,结合文献史料的记载和考古发现,对回鹘服饰进行较为系统的分类研究。少数民族服饰史,由于相应的资料较少,研究不易。通过本课题的研究,也期望对研究古代少数民族服饰史在方法论上有所贡献。全文主要包括以下两个部分:上编是对敦煌新疆两地,以及其他形式的回鹘服饰遗存的归纳。前两章以洞窟群或遗址为分类标准,将敦煌分为莫高窟回鹘服饰遗存、榆林窟回鹘服饰遗存和西千佛洞回鹘服饰遗存;将新疆地区分为伯孜克里克石窟、北庭高昌回鹘佛寺遗址、高昌古城等数类。每一类包括三个部分:洞窟群或遗址的历史背景介绍,回鹘服饰遗存列表,对其中一些回鹘服饰遗存进行分析。下编共分三章。第一章为回鹘男子服饰研究,将回鹘男子服饰分为十二类进行分类研究。第二章为回鹘女子服饰研究,将回鹘女子服饰分为六类分类研究。第三章为饰件研究,分为耳饰,发饰(花钿、步摇、钗和簪、梳篦),饰品的材质和价值。由于在回鹘服饰中,最明显的服饰特征往往是他们的冠帽,所以本文主要以他们冠帽的形式来指称服饰类别。经过分类研究,得出:回鹘男子以穿袍为主,袍长或至小腿或及地面。形制主要有两种,一种圆领长袍,以红色为主,图案喜用小团花;一种为有饰边长袍,在领口、门襟、上臂、袖口以及下摆上都有花边装饰。冠帽形制多且独特,其中尖项花瓣形冠、三叉冠、扇形冠和桃形冠,为敦煌、新疆两地供养人所共有。其他如尖顶帽、圆帽、花帽等则为新疆地区人物形象所独有,尖顶帽和圆帽都为西域和中亚其他少数民族所共同喜爱,而花帽则是现代维吾尔族花帽的前身。后期新疆回鹘男子服饰更是受到了蒙古族服饰的较多影响。回鹘女子服饰与男子服饰一样,新疆地区图像中所见种类较敦煌多。其桃形冠、花蕾冠、如角前指冠等造型都很独特,不见于其他民族。敦煌壁画中回鹘女供养人多戴桃形冠,但甘州回鹘时期和沙洲回鹘时期服饰有所不同,除桃形冠相同,前者为交领长袍,后者为对襟长袍,前者为敦煌地区所独有,后者则可在新疆壁画中找到同类服饰。两地同样为对襟长袍者,饰件又有所不同:敦煌壁画中回鹘女供养人戴步摇,新疆地区的则无。可见敦煌地区的回鹘女子受汉族服饰影响更大,而新疆地区则受西域其他少数民族服饰影响较大。更多还原

【Abstract】 The Uighur tribe is an ancient race in Northern China, the ancestor of today’s Uyghur and Yugur. In 8th century, the Uighurs began to found an independent powerful Khanate along the Orkhon River and make a great contribution to China to be a multinational country. The culture of Uighur has a long, vivid history. For the high value and status in the culture of Northern nation of China, it causes many scholars’ concern. Dressing culture of Uighur is also an important part of it. Until now, it’s not been studied systematically and there is no treatise specializing in it.There is a lot of information about costume and body decoration in the sculptures and frescoes found in Dunhuang. Based on the research of predecessor, ancient historical material and discovery in archaeology, this thesis will do a classifying study on the dressing culture of Uighur in systemic way according to the issued pictures of sulptures and frescoes found in Xingjiang and Donghong, from lateTang dynasties, Five dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, Song dynasty, Xia dynasty to Yuan dynasty. Hope it will contribute to the study of the dressing culture, even the history of the ancient minority.The thesis includes two parts:The first part sums up the dressing relique in Dunhuang and Xinjiang, classified by cave groups or sites. For example, Dunhuang will be classified as Uighur dressing of Mogao Caves, Uighur dressing of Yulin caves and Uighur dressing in XiQianfo caves. Each classification includes 3 parts: the introduction of history background of cave groups or sites, the list of Uighur dressing relique, and the analysis of some Uighur dressing.The second part includes 3 paragraphs. The first one is the study of Uighur men’s dressing, classifying it into 12 types. The second one is the study of Uighur women’s dressing, 6 types. The third part is accessories’ study, including earring, headgear, dangling ornament worn by women and ornament pasted in the face by women, hair pin, combs. And it will study the material and value of the ornaments.The most obvious dressing feature of Uighur is their coronets, so the thesis will name the dressing categories after the type of the coronet. In the classifying study, we found: Uighur males mainly wear pao, with bottom reaching the calf or the ground. There are two types of pao. One is round neckline long robe, most in red with small posy pattern; the other is long robe with purfle at neckline, front center, the upper arm, sleeve opening and bottom line. The types of coronets are diversiform and unique. Among them, petal shape capuche, trifurcate coronet, fan shape coronet and peach shape coronet were worn by the people both in Xinjiang and Dunhuang, but capuche, round coronet and flower coronet were just worn by the people in Xinjiang. Capuche and round coronet were popular by the minority in western regions and middle of Asia. And the flower coronet is the origin of modern Uyghur coronet. And late Uighur men’s dressing was much influenced by Mongolia dressing.Same as the men’s, the types of Uighur women’s dressing in Xinjiang are more than those in Dunhuang. The Uighur female Donors in the frescoes mostly wear peach shape coronets, but different in the time of Ganzhou Uighur and Shazhou Uighur. The early one wears asymmetric collar pao, particularly in Dunhuang. And the latter wears central opening pao. It can be found in the frescoes in Xinjiang. In the study of accessories, it’s found the female donors in Duhuang wear dangling ornament, but not in Xinjiang. That means the Uighur females in Duhuang were influenced more by Han dressing, but the ones in Xinjiang were influenced by other minorities in western regions.更多还原