【作者】 颜莉；

【导师】 高长春；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 企业管理， 2013， 博士

【摘要】 近20年来,随着后工业化时代人们对于经济过快发展带来负面作用的反思,使得经济研究的热点逐渐向人文性、艺术性。产业经济、区域经济、城市经济理论的逐渐成熟与完善,也使得对时尚产业的研究,逐渐延伸到生产、消费、零售和品牌等领域。时尚产业是典型的都市产业,跨越高附加值制造业与现代服务业的产业界限,是多重传统产业的组合。纵观全球时尚产业的发展,以五大时尚之都为代表,时尚产业均体现出了发展极其迅速、对经济拉动作用强的特点。这些城市的时尚产业组织不仅巧妙的将历史、文化、心理与经济相结合,还以时尚节事作为契机,将本土的时尚文化和诉求传播到世界各地,从而成为时尚产业发展的风向标。目前落后的理论研究与蓬勃的现实发展并存的局面,使得对时尚产业理论研究的需求日益突出。时尚产业在时尚之都的发展规律如何,上海时尚产业与五大时尚之都的差距何在,上海如何借鉴时尚之都的发展经验来发展本土时尚产业,这都是本研究着重探讨的问题。本研究依托模块化理论,对五大时尚之都时尚产业组织发展特点进行详细调研的基础之上,结合上海时尚产业组织发展的具体情况,围绕以下内容展开研究：(1)时尚产业组织模块化分解与重构研究。从微观、中观和宏观解析时尚产业分解的过程与机制；在从模块化结构、生产方式和重构过程三个方面阐述模块化重构给时尚产业带来的创新动力和组织价值变化。以快时尚为例对时尚产业组织模块化系统要素所进行的模块化重构和价值创新进行研究。(2)时尚产业模块组织价值创新要素及其影响机制研究。以时尚之都的时尚产业为例,提取时尚产业组织模块化价值创新要素,分析其创新机制。认为这些要素通过信息传递、结构优化和知识溢出三大效应实现时尚产业组织模块化价值创新,在此过程中,不断有模块和模块化要素被淘汰,产生新的模块和模块化要素,投入到时尚产业价值创新,实现价值创新的不断循环。(3)时尚产业组织模块化价值创新能力评价研究。利用五大时尚制度时尚产业组织模块化价值创新要素及其影响机制的研究成果,采用主体要素、市场要素、制度要素和辅助要素作为主要指标,运用模糊灰色综合评价方法,构建价值创新能力评价模型,并对纽约、伦敦和上海的时尚产业组织价值创新能力进行实证,说明上海和先进城市之间的差距。(4)上海时尚产业组织模块化价值创新能力评价与对策分析.对上海时尚产业组织模块化价值创新能力进行评价分析,利用边际效应值作为分析手段,对各个要素逐一进行比对和评价,提出改进措施。结合上海时尚产业模块化要素发展的具体情况,对其时尚产业组织下一步发展提出政策建议。本研究主要方法：通过对模块化、时尚和时尚产业相关文献的梳理,提炼这些文献的总体脉络,研究要点,归纳研究的不足之处,总结时尚产业组织价值创新研究的必要性和可行性。通过对时尚之都时尚产业的调研,提炼其组织模块化价值创新要素,并根据这些要素构建评价体系和评价模型,利用模糊灰色综合分析法,对纽约、伦敦和上海的时尚产业组织价值创新能力进行实证。引入边际产出值,用于分析上海时尚产业价值创新能力各个要素情况,并提出针对性建议。本研究的主要结论：1.时尚产业组织通过模块化分解与重构,实现了组织模块化价值创新。时尚产业组织模块化分解过程来自三个层面：微观机制实现了模块化的物理分割；中观机制实现了标准创新和界面创新；宏观方面则体现了开放式创新战略的推进。时尚产业组织模块化重构也来自三个层面：模块化整合确定了时尚产业各个模块的竞合机制和创新规则；历经三个阶段的创新发展实现了模块化网状创新模式；模块化生产方式的成熟标志着时尚产业组织关系进入新的阶段,新的契约关系和价值创新机制产生。2.时尚产业组织模块化价值创新机制是时尚产业蓬勃发展的无形推手。通过对五大时尚之都时尚产业的调研,以及价值创新影响要素的提取,将这些要素归纳为主体要素、市场要素、制度要素和辅助要素。认为在模块化规则、界面、系统信息和个体信息的指引下,这些要素通过信息传递效应、结构优化效应和知识溢出效应,淘汰就要素,催生新要素,进而实现时尚产业组织价值创新。3.时尚产业组织模块化价值创新能力评价与实证。在调研基础上构建评价模型,并确定用模糊灰色综合评价法对时尚产业组织价值创新能力进行评价,可以对时尚产业组织进行横向比较。实证结果表明,上海的时尚产业与纽约、伦敦存在较大差距。边际产出值法的运用,可以帮助上海时尚产业进行内部比较,找到重点发展要素,有的放矢。4.上海时尚产业组织价值创新能力分析与对策。上海时尚产业下一步重点发展的要素应是主体要素和市场要素。其中,对品牌资产运作机构、研发机构、人才培养机构和时尚创意产业园区的投入,是投入的重中之重。另外对于创新要素的支持还需要一系列的政策进行系统保障。本研究的创新来自：(1)模块化理论的引入：将模块化理论引入时尚产业一般问题研究,认为模块化视角是时尚产业基本规律研究的基本点和出发点,为时尚产业其他主题的研究打下基础。(2)时尚产业组织价值创新机制的归纳：依托模块化理论,通过调研获取时尚产业组织价值创新资料并提炼其要素,归纳其价值创新机制。(3)时尚产业组织价值创新能力评价模型与实证：根据时尚产业组织价值创新机制构建评价模型,利用模糊灰色评价法进行评价,并对纽约、伦敦和上海时尚产业发展状况进行综合评价。引入边际产出值法,对上海时尚产业价值创新要素进行分析评价。更多还原

【Abstract】 In the past two decades, with the introspection of negative effects by excessive growth of post-industrial age, the economic research focus gradually pursues humanity and artistry. Studies on Industrrial Economy, Regional Economy and Urban Economy foster the research on fashion industry to the field production, consumption, outlet and brand etc. Fashion industry is a typical metropolis-relied industry with the attributes of crossing high value-added manufacture and modern service industry. The development of fashion industry especially in5fashion metropolises, shows great potential of pushing economy with rapid development. The fashion organizations of such cities not only integrates history, culture and psychology with economy, but also advertises the fashion culture and ideas to all around the world so that they all become the wind vane of fashion industry. The flourishing status of fashion industry calls for deeper and more practical research on this filed. How does fashion industry develop in those five fashion metropolises and how can Shanghai build its road towards a fashion metropolis remain a notable issue.This research covers the following4aspects:(1)Modular decomposition and reconstruction of fashion organization. The research analyses the process and mechanism of fashion industry modular decomposition from micro, meso and macro scopes. Moreover the reconstruction description is carried out by the final structure, the way of production and reconstruction process. The fast-fashion is taken as an example for further explanation of value innovation by modular organization.(2)Value innovation factors and mechanism of fashion industry modular organizations. An investigation is taken at the five fashion metroplisis including New york, London, Paris, Millian and Tokyo. The value innovation factors are abstracted and the innovation mechanism is analyzed. The mechanism shows that through information transfer, structure optimization and knowledge spillover effects, such a mechanism metabolizes the modular factors and realizes value innovation.(3)The capability evaluation research of fashion industry modular organization. The model is established by first-grade indicators cover entity, market, system and supplementary factors and fuzzy-gray comprehensive evaluation method is implemented hereby. A demonstration is take at New york, London and Shanghai under further data collection. The results show that New york and London have more superiorities than Shanghai in term of fashion industry status quo.(4)The evaluation and suggestion on Shanghai fashion industry modular organization.The marginal utility index is used to measure the weight of the modular factors of Shanghai fashion industry under the model constructed above.The proposals are given under the results of measurement.Methods taken by this research covers literature review, theory of modularity, theory of value innovation, case analysis,contrastive analysis,classified analysis, hierarchy analysis, fuzzy-grey comprehensive evaluation, entropy value and marginal utility value.The results are as follows:Firstly, the decomposition and reconstruction of fashion industry modular organization helps it achieve the innovation value. The decomposition comes from3aspects:the micro scheme realize the modular physical split of such an organization; the meso scheme brings about standard innovation and interface innovation;the macro scheme facilitates the innovation strategy of whole industry. The reconstruction of fashion industry modular organization also comes from3aspects:the integration of the modules confirm the compotition-cooperation mechanism and innovation rules; the3-step innovation stage takes the fashion industry into a net-innovation status; the modular way of production is more and more popular,which marks that the fashion industry organization enters a entirely new stage.A fresh contractual relationship and value innovation scheme comes into being.Secondly,the innovation mechanism of fashion industry modular boost the fashion industry to a flourishing status. The investigation in the five metropolises shows that subject element,market element, scheme element are key elements to fashion industry modular development. Under the guidance of modular rules, interface, system information and individual information, these elements helps realize the effect of information transfer, structure optimization and knowledge spillover。 such a mechanism metabolizes the modular factors and realizes value innovation.Thirdly,evaluation and demonstration of fashion industry modular organization innovation capability. An evaluation is built based on the investigation. And the fuzzy-gray comprehensive evaluation method is used to assess the innovation capability of New york, London and Shanghai.The demonstration shows the horizontal gap among these3cities. Then the method of marginal utility value is used to weight the elements of Shanghai fashion industry modular development, which help the organization to discover the advantages and disadvantages. Finally, Shanghai fashion industry organization innovation capability is analyzed and proposals are put forward.The government should pay attention to the brand-equity operation institution, R&D institution, HR development institutions and Fashion&Creative industrial zone.And supportive policies are required to boost the four elements.The new idea of the research are:Firstly the introduction of modular theory. The modular theory are used to the study on fashion industry. It is thought that the angle of modular is the starting point of fashion industry basic rules, which is also the basis of other research for fashion industry. Secondly, the induction of fashion industry organization innovation mechanism. Thirdly, establishment and demonstration of value innovation capability model.The model is set up according to the fashion industry value innovation mechanism.A horizontal comparison is carried out by fussy-gray comprehensive evaluation method and vertical comparison is implemented by marginal utility method.更多还原