【作者】 蒋丽君；

【导师】 张文斌；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2010， 博士

【摘要】 21世纪,人类迈入数字化信息时代,各行各业发生了不同程度的变革,人类日常生活模式发生了显著变化。世界各国服装业面临着-场巨大变革,随着服装数字化技术的研究与实际运用,服装设计生产、服装企业管理与营销、消费者购买和消费模式等诸方面都正发生着前所未有的改变；设计师,生产商与消费者的交流越来越多,彼此联系也会越来越紧密。服装数字化是以计算机图形学为理论基础,依托计算机硬件和软件技术,对着装人体的三维数据信息提取与分析,对服装产品的设计、生产和营销,服装设备的操作和控制、服装企业的管理等过程中的信息进行收集、整合、存储和运用,是以多学科交叉、复合为基础的高新科学技术在服装产业上的应用。数字化服装系统包括数字化服装技术研发系统,数字化服装设计生产系统,数字化服装业务流程管理等系统。本文研究重点问题及创新点如下：(1)人体颈部形态特征研究从服装人体工效学角度研究了人体颈部形态特征。通过运用TC2三维人体扫描仪和马丁测量仪进行了人体颈部细部测量实验,运用SPSS软件对测量数据采用最大方差旋转的主成分分析法首次获得五个颈部形态特征因子：围长因子、宽度因子、厚度因子、矢状面角度因子和额状面角度因子；再用快速聚类方法构建了一个适合中国青年女子的颈部细部规格系统,表示成NG/NWTR/NGLR形式。本文建立的颈部规格系统,对人体颈部进行了细分,可获知个体颈根围截面形状,围度,长度等的特征。例如,可将具有相同颈根围的人分成不同三维类别,能提供更全面更精确的颈部形状,能更好地满足个体服装合体衣领的要求,有助于个性化虚拟颈部模型和量身定制样版设计系统的构建。(2)颈部三维数学模型首次利用个性化三维颈部数据代替制版技术使用的二维数据,构建基于个性化颈部特征数学模型。本文运用参数建模方法,根据颈部测量参数(颈宽NW,颈厚NT,颈部特征点等),将颈根围线和颈上口围线视为螺旋椭圆曲线,并用解析几何建立曲线方程,从而可以计算得到颈根围线,颈上口围线上各点的空间坐标值,构建了可调式颈部三维参数模型,为后续的量身定制衣领三维建模提供三维空间的人体参考数据,以便提高计算机模拟的可视化程度。(3)服装衣领三维结构模型根据人体颈部测量变量和设定的衣领设计参数,本文提出构建量身定制三维衣领结构模型的理论,详细分析依据人体颈部测量数据,创建三维基础衣领结构模型的方法,可使衣领更符合个体颈部的立体形态；本文提出的衣领结构三维模型构建方法,改变了传统衣领结构设计过程,能依据人体颈部特征点得到衣领结构特征点,结合服装衣领特征信息,建立衣领上口曲线、下口曲线、外口曲线与颈部形态、衣领设计参数的曲线方程,建构衣领结构的拓扑关系,形成三角网格模型,分别得到符合个体颈部立体形态的立领、翻立领、翻折领的基础衣领三维模型；在此基础上,可以运用网格连接规则间接获得变化衣领的三维衣领网格模型。(4)服装衣领样版自动生成运用KES织物风格测试仪对面料进行物理性能测试,用SPSS软件进行数据分析,研究面料物理力学性能与衣领结构参数的关系。通过实验进行面料性能因子与结构参数的相关性分析,得到面料性能的四个主因子：剪切因子、纬向拉伸因子、弯曲与厚度因子和经向拉伸因子,得到面料性能因子模型；通过进行衣领结构造型参数与面料性能关系实验,筛选出衣领结构参数与面料物理力学性能的六个主因子,前四个与面料物理性能主因子一致,后两个为衣领结构因子：弯曲度和领宽结构因子,并得到衣领结构参数与面料性能间的关系方程；在翻折领内外差异量与面料性能关系实验中得到领里／领面差异量与面料物理性能的相关性,并得到相关数学模型；最后,用计算机图形学和三角曲面展平算法,将三维衣领模型映射成二维衣领样版。此项研究,为最终真正实现三维服装结构设计具有重要的意义。(5)服装衣领三维-二维结构系统开发运用VC++和OpenGL开发服装衣领三维-二维结构样版自动生成软件系统,共包含六个模块：①颈部数据模块,②颈部形态判别模块,③颈部模型生成模块,④面料性能及衣领设计模块,⑤三维衣领模型生成模块,⑥二维衣领样版自动生成模块。最后,根据系统自动生成的样版,进行衣领实际缝制,得到较好的着装效果。应用该系统,可实现根据个人颈部数据,运用计算机自动生成个性化衣领结构模型,实现二维衣领样版的自动生成,为最终实现服装量身定制提供可行性探索。本文研究的科研背景为恒源祥—东华大学产学研合作进行的上海市经委科研项目——恒源祥集团服装EMTM快速生产软件系统实用化研究(2008～2010),作者是主要参与者之一。更多还原

【Abstract】 When Humanity enters the digital information age in the 21st century, every walk of life has undergone varying degrees of change, daily life styles have followed the change. Apparel industry in the world has also facing a revolution. Following the research and practical application in the clothing digital technology, it would be unprecedented change in apparel design and manufacture, enterprise management and marketing, consumer purchases and consumption styles, etc. There is an increasing relationship among designers, manufacturers and consumers.Clothing digital is a kind of multidisciplinary high-technology based on the theoretical basis of Computer Graphics, depended on computer hardware and software technology, which extracts and analyses three-dimensional data of the body, which collects, consolidates, stores and uses the information in the process of apparel design, manufacture and marketing, clothing equipment operation and control, clothing enterprises management. Clothing Digital System includes apparel technology research and development digital system, apparel design and production digital system, garment business process management digital system, etc. In this paper, the key questions and innovations were followed:(1)Research on neck morphological characteristicsIt researched neck morphological characteristics based on the clothing body ergonomics. It was experimented neck detail measure by 3D TC2 body scanner and Martin’s anthropometer. It obtained five critical factors of neck characteristic by SPSS which used principal components factor analysis with varimax rotation, that was neck length factor, neck width factor, thickness factor, sagittal plane angle factor and coronal plane angle factor. Then it built a new neck sizing system for Chinese young women by K-means clustering, which was expressed as NG/NWTR/NGLR. It could obtain the neck root section, girth and length characters, etc, based on the new sizing system. For example, it could divide the necks of people owed the same neck girth into different categories that could provide the better and more precise neck shapes which could meet the requirement of fitting collar of individual apparel. It is benefit to building the neck part of an individual virtual model and the MTM pattern design system.(2) Neck Mathematic ModelIt was built that customized neck model used three-dimensional data of personal neck instead of two-dimensional data. In this paper, it was constructed a mathematical neck model by parametric modeling method, which regarded neck root line and neck up line as spiral elliptic curve, established the curve equations by analytical geometry based on NW,NT and the neck characteristic points, calculated the spatial coordinates of the points on the curve, to create the three-dimensional neck mathematical model which could be adjustable, high degree of visual, to provide customized data of the human body for the three-dimensional collar model.(3) 3D Collar ModelAccording to the measured variables of neck and the design parameters of collar, it presented the details of building a MTM three-dimensional collar model theory, created the 3D basis Construction collar model based on the measurement data of human neck,more fitting the three-dimensional shape of individual neck. It was proposed the building method of 3D collar model, which changed the traditional collar design process, to get collar key points based on neck key points, combined with collar characteristic information, established the curve relations between the up, down, outer collar curves and neck shapes, the design parameters of collar, formed a triangular mesh model by the topological relations of the collar, got the three-dimensional models of stand collar, turned stand collar and lapel, more fitting the shape of-individual neck. It could get mesh models of the variational collars based on the mesh of base collars use the grid connection rules. (4) Clothing Collar Pattern Automatically GeneratedIt was tested that the material-properties of clothes using KES Fabric style testers, studied the relationship between the material properties of the physical fabric and the collar construction parameters by SPSS for data analysis. Through the analysis of the fabric performance factors, it got four main factors:the shear factor, the weft tensile factor, bending and thickness factor and the factor models of fabric properties. Through the relationship of collar construction parameters and fabric properties, it got six main factors, the former four factors are the same to the main factors of fabric properties, the latter two factors are collar construction factors: curvature and collar width, and got the relationship equations of collar construction parameters and fabric properties. Through the experiments of the relationship between the collar surface/lining and fabric properties, it got the equations of the collar surface/lining and fabric performance. Finally,3D model is mapped into a flat collar patterns by computer graphics and triangular surface flattening algorithm. The study is truly great significance for the final three-dimensional garment construction design.(5) Clothing 3D-2D Construction System DevelopmentIt was developed that Clothing 3D-2D Construction Automatic Generation Software System by using VC++and OpenGL consists of six modules:①neck data module,②neck shape discrimination module, ③neck model generation module,④Fabric performance and collar design module,⑤3D collar model creating module,⑥two-dimensional collar patterns automatic generation module. Finally, collars were sewed based on the automatic patterns and the results were good. In these studies, it can be realized using the computer automatically generates individual collar model, automatic generation of process patterns based on personal neck data. It explores a feasibility of Apparel EMTM.The background of this dissertation is the research item of Shanghai Municipal Economic Commission——the practicability research on Hengyuanxiang Apparel EMTM QRS manufacture software system, which is a cooperative research project of Hengyuanxiang and Donghua University (2008～2010), the author is one of the major participants.更多还原