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涤纶/人棉织物碱性色烂花印花的研究

Study of Alkaline Colored Burnt-out Printing in Polyester/Rayon Fabric

【作者】 辛云川

【导师】 朱亚伟;

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 , 纺织化学与染整工程, 2010, 硕士

【摘要】 本文选用了一系列不同结构类型的分散染料分别在酸性和不同碱浓度的碱性条件下染色,通过测试染色后布样的K/S值、色差、染色残液的吸光度、染料的红外谱图等,比较了不同结构分散染料的耐碱性强弱,并计算染料结构中水解基团的休克尔电荷值来分析染料的结构与耐碱性的关系。然后选择耐碱性好的分散染料对涤纶/人棉包复织物进行碱性烂花印花的研究,探讨了碱性烂花印花工艺的可行性。研究结果表明:偶氮类分散染料和蒽醌类分散染料的耐碱性取决于染料结构中水解基团的休克尔电荷值和数量,水解基团的耐碱性强弱依次为:羟基>氰基>酰胺基>酯基,而且水解基团的数量越多,染料的耐碱性越差;杂环类分散染料由于其结构变化多样,耐碱性的强弱也随着结构的不同而变化较大,比如染料分子取代基的原子间作用力及互变异构现象等都对染料的耐碱性有影响;涤纶/人棉包复织物碱性烂花工艺中通过原糊的选择、碱剂的用量、焙烘温度和时间及水洗等工序能获得很好的效果,说明碱性色烂花印花工艺切实可行。

【Abstract】 This paper selected a range of different structural types of disperse dyes which were dyed in acid condition and different alkali concentrations of alkaline conditions.The alkali resistance of different structural disperse dyes were compared through testing the K/S value and color shading、absorbance of dye residue、Infrared spectrographs of the hydrolysis dyes,etc.The relationships between the dyes structure and their alkali resistance were analyzed by calculating the Hückel charge values of the hydrolysis groups.Then the good alkali resistance disperse dyes were chosen to study and discuss the feasibility of the alkaline colored burnt-out printing technique in polyester/rayon wrap fabric.TThe results showed that:the alkali resistance strength of the azo and anthra- -quinone disperse dyes were involved with the Hückel charge values and quantities of the hydrolysis groups,and the alkaline resistance strength of the hydrolysis groups as follows:hydroxyl group > cyanogens group > amide group > eater group,furthermore the number of hydrolysis groups more,the alkali resistance worse;Heterocyclic disperse dyes because of their diverse structures,the alkali resistance strength changed a lot,for example the atomic force of molecular substituent and tautomerism can also affect the dyes alkali resistance;The alkaline burnt-out printing technique in polyester/rayon wrap fabric can get good results through the choice of paste,alkali dosage,curing temperature and time,the rinsing technique and so on,which illustrated this process feasible.

  • 【网络出版投稿人】 苏州大学
  • 【网络出版年期】2011年 01期
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