20世纪20-40年代改良旗袍与上海社会

【作者】 初艳萍；

【导师】 洪煜；

【作者基本信息】 上海师范大学 ， 中国近现代史， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 改良旗袍是20世纪20年代出现在上海社会的女装样式,至20世纪40年代末渐渐淡出当时妇女的日常穿着。改良旗袍成为近代上海妇女社会地位及时尚变化的历史记忆。清末,经过长期的统治与漫长的社会变迁,满族妇女的旗袍逐渐成为了人们生活中代表上层高贵与典雅的服饰,这种符号化的服饰语言的形成是近代旗袍复兴中不容忽视的社会因素和心理因素。近代上海独特的政治、经济和社会背景为改良旗袍在上海复兴提供了条件。改良旗袍不仅是当时上海妇女的名片,也是上海风情流行的媒体。改良旗袍的出现迎合了当时社会的变迁和妇女身份的重塑。20世纪20到40年代上海妇女的职业道路、消费心态和家庭婚姻生活,反映在改良旗袍上是近代上海社会妇女矛盾身份的写照。同时改良旗袍在上海社会的变化受到了政府力量的控制和社会舆论的关注。政府通过对旗袍式样的控制实现对妇女身体的规训和控制,上海妇女则通过对旗袍的改良实现与社会的互动。社会舆论也通过各种形式重塑了符合当时上海文化的新女性形象,并通过改良旗袍这一符号语言展现了出来。民国年间以改良旗袍为代表的上海服饰能够引领全国的时尚潮流与上海文化的外向性有着密不可分的关系,同时由于受到传统文化不可避免的影响与左右,改良旗袍的发展与演变也呈现出了独特的上海特色。改良旗袍,是近代上海都市文化的反映。它作为一种历史的记忆,带给我们关于20世纪20——40年代上海社会时尚的遐想。更多还原

【Abstract】 In 1920s, the reformed cheongsam came into existence in shanghai society as a lady’s clothing, and it gradually disappeared from women’s everyday dress until the end of 1940s. Thus, it became a historical memory of social status and fashion changes for women in modern shanghai. In the late Qing Dynasty, the cheongsam of Manchu women evolved as a garment which represented the nobleness and elegance of upper class throughout a long reign and sustaining social changes, and the formation of this signified clothing language proved to be a large number of social and psychological factors in the revival of cheongsam. However, the unique political, economical and social backgrounds provided conditions for its revival in modern shanghai. The cheongsam was not merely the name card of shanghai women, it was also the medium of popular amorous feelings in shanghai. Moreover, the emerge of the reformed cheongsam catered to social changes and the remolding of women identities of the time. During the 1920s and 1940s, the career path, attitude of consumption and marital family life of shanghai women were reflected in the reformed cheongsam and they were the authentic portrayal of women’s contradictory identities in modern shanghai society. Meanwhile, the transformation of cheongsam had been subjected to the control of government power and the close attentions of public opinion in shanghai society. The ruling government achieved their purposes of disciplining and controlling women’s body through regulating their cheongsam patterns, yet the women in shanghai also realized their interactions with the public by modifying cheongsam. Futhermore, the public opinion simultaneously reshaped the new female figure through various channels and forms in line with shanghai culture, and thereby displayed these changes by cheongsam, a kind of symbolic language. In years of Republic of China, the shanghai style represented by the reformed cheongsam led a nationwide fashion trend, which probably had intimate relation with the extraversion of shanghai culture. Owing to the inevitable influence and control of traditional culture, the development and evolution of the reformed cheongsam presented a particular shanghai characteristic. The reformed cheongsam, as a historical memory and the reflection of shanghai urban culture, brought us fanciful senses of fashion in shanghai society during the 1920s and 1940s.更多还原