【作者】 田心杰；

【导师】 郭建生；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2010， 硕士

【摘要】 传统的羊毛染色是在长时间的高温沸染下完成的,但是高温染色不仅耗能大,增加成本,而且使羊毛遭受高温和化学药剂的作用,使其强力下降,引起羊毛泛黄,影响纤维的手感、光泽、鲜艳度,破坏羊毛优良的天然品质,对纺纱、织造等后加工不利。因此研究和推广羊毛低温染色方法具有重要意义。目前大部分的羊毛染色采用酸性染料染色,但酸性染料染色的缺点是湿处理牢度差,对环境有较大的污染,对人体有较大的伤害,染色后的废水过滤排放问题也难以处理。而羊毛活性染料因对环境的污染较少,且活性染料能与羊毛反应生成共价键结合,而具有很好的水洗、耐光、耐汗渍牢度。因此,使用活性染料结合羊毛低温染色成为羊毛染色较好的发展方向。本论文主要研究在使用亨斯迈纺织染化(中国)有限公司的兰纳素毛用活性染料对羊毛织物进行低温染色时,羊毛织物分别在低温助剂miralan LTD和CTC-435作用下的低温染色工艺、低温助剂对羊毛染色性能的影响,通过对上染率、染色牢度、匀染性等染色性能的测试,分析了助剂的促染规律和作用机理。实验结果表明,用助剂低温染色,在80℃下即可达到常规沸染时的染色效果。与常规染色相比,用助剂进行低温染色可在很大程度上减少纤维损伤,在80℃染色时可使织物的经纬向撕破强力损伤分别从常规沸染时的37.55%和26.52%下降到了17.60%和12.93%。本论文通过进行各实验因子对染色效果影响大小的正交实验,得到了低温染色的较优染色工艺条件。使用低温助剂miralan LTD时的最佳染色条件为:助剂用量为2%,浴比1:40,染色pH值为5.0;而使用低温助剂CTC-435时的最佳染色条件为:助剂用量为2%,浴比1:30,染色pH值为4.5。本论文进行了采用低温助剂和超声波共同作用下的羊毛织物低温染色实验,测得染色结果,并与常规沸染结果和助剂低温染色结果进行了对比。通过测定在超声波作用下的助剂低温染色的上染率、固色率、匀染性和染色牢度等染色指标表明,在超声波和低温助剂的共同作用下,在75℃染色时各项染色指标即可达到或超过常规染色的染色效果,与同温度下的助剂低温染色相比,各指标有明显的提高。本论文还进行了低温染色和常规沸染能量消耗情况的对比研究,得到低温染色能减少能耗,降低成本。更多还原

【Abstract】 Boiled temperature dyeing is often adopted by conventional wool dyeing. The fiber is badly destroyed by high temperature and chemical agents. High-temperature dyeing not only consumes large in energy, increases the cost, but also causes yellowing, affects fiber feeling, luster, brightness, brings the strength, destroys the wool’s natural quality. It is disadvantageous to post-processing such as spinning, weaving and other processings. Therefore, there is important significance to research and extend the method of low-temperature dyeing of wool.Acid dyes are often used in wool dyeing, but acid dyes have many disadvantages. For instance, wet fastness is poor, environmental pollution and harm to the human body are great, emissions after dyeing are difficult to deal with. Meanwhile wool dyeing with reactive dyes possess good washing fastness, light fastness, etc due to less polluting the environment and could generating covalent bond with wool. Reactive dyes together with low-temperature becomes a better method in wool dyeing.This paper researched wool dyeing in low-temperature with lanasol reactive dyes produced by Huntsman Company. Low-temperature dyeing of wool fabrics with miralan LTD and CTC-435, two different dyeing agents, were studied. And dyeing properties such as dyeing uptake, color fastness and so on were tested. Then operating rules and dyeing mechanism of auxiliary agents as dyeing accelerants were analysised. The experimental results showed that staining results at 80℃low-temperature dyeing with agents can equal the levlel with conventional dyeing. Compared with conventional staining, low-temperature dyeing with agents can reduce fiber damage. The low-temperature dyeing at 80℃using agent can markedly diminish warp and weft direction tear strength loss of wool fabric respectively from 37.55% to 17.60% and 26.52% to 12.93%, compared to dyeing at boiling.In this paper, we get the best dyeing conditions of low-temperature dyeing by orthogonal experiment. The best dyeing conditions with miralan LTD are as follows: the dosage of agent is 2%, the liquor ratio is 1:40, the pH value is 5.0; The best dyeing conditions with CTC-435 are as follows: the dosage of agent is 2%, the liquor ratio is 1:30, the pH value is 4.5.Wool fabrics were also dyed under the effects of low-temperature agents and ultrasonic wave, and then dyeing results were measured. Results were compared respectively with conventional staining and low temperature dyeing with agent. It is indicated that results of dyeing wool fabrics with the interaction of low-temperature agent and ultrasonic wave can reach or exceeded the conventional dyeing results at 75℃, and were a litter better than that of dyeing with low-temperature agent at the same dyeing temperature.更多还原