【作者】 张中启；

【导师】 张欣； 刘驰；

【作者基本信息】 西安工程大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 牛仔裤是现代大学生生活中不可缺少的服装之一。其基本需求是要美观合体,还要便于运动。在对男大学生牛仔裤消费状况调查中发现,目前市场上的牛仔裤设计缺乏对目标客户群的体型分析,在板型的设计上缺乏理论依据,在规格的设置上不符合消费者的体型特征,从而导致相当一部分大学生买不到适体牛仔裤,穿着过程中感到有束缚感,本研究正是在此基础上提出的。本研究利用三维人体扫描仪对我国中西部地区男大学生进行人体测量,获得男大学生三维体型数据,并对这些数据进行分析,提取下体特征指标,运用立体裁剪的方法并结合人体运动和裤装造型,建立合体牛仔裤原型,最后设计9件不同腰位的牛仔裤,并进行穿着舒适性评价。本论文主要有以下五部分组成:1)男大学生牛仔裤消费状况问卷。通过对西部地区六所高校的338名男大学生牛仔裤消费状况问卷,从设计、销售、穿着因素三个方面进行分析调查,明确本研究的目标和内容。2)人体数据分析。运用非接触式三维人体扫描仪,对233名生长地和出生地均在中西部地区,年龄在18～25岁的在校男大学生进行非接触式测量,对49个三维人体扫描仪自动报告的尺寸和5个派生变量进行数理统计分析,提取了能够反映下体体型特征的5个主要因子和15个特征指标。3)下体号型设置。通过对各种体型指标进行分析发现,可以用臀腰差、腰围高/腰围两个指标,按照快速样本聚类的方法将本次测量的男大学生聚为高胖体、高瘦体、标准体、矮胖体、矮瘦体五类。按照覆盖率为95%的原则并结合每类中间体的尺寸,设计出符合服装工业化生产要求的下体号型,提高了裤装规格的覆盖率。4)牛仔裤原型的建立和应用。在标准体上运用立体裁剪的方法获得裤装基础原型,在裤装基础原型的基础上结合人体常见动作对裤装各部位放松量的要求建立裤装基本原型,在裤装基本原型的基础上结合裤装造型建立合体牛仔裤原型,在合体牛仔裤原型的基础上结合牛仔裤款式进行相应牛仔裤款式的设计,简化了牛仔裤纸样设计程序,提高了牛仔裤合体性和舒适性设计的科学性和技术实用性。5)牛仔裤穿着舒适性评价。采用真人试穿和主观评价的方法,对9件不同腰位的牛仔裤进行着装实验评价并进行压力舒适性评价,发现所有牛仔裤在穿着的过程中都能满足人体舒适性的要求,其中腰上口位于髋骨上2cm,前中下降1.5cm是最舒适的腰位设计,验证了牛仔裤原型制图的重要意义。本研究可以改善国内牛仔裤纸样中直接按照公式、经验进行裤装纸样设计的现状,促进原型法在牛仔裤纸样设计中的应用,为服装企业开发个性化、多品种、小批量、合体和舒适牛仔裤起到了一定的借鉴和参考作用。更多还原

【Abstract】 Jeans is an essential clothes in the modern college students’ everyday life. For one thing, it must be well-fitted, for the other, it should be adaptable to body movement,. Through the jeans consumer behavior survey of the male students ,most jeans in the present market have no analysis on the target customers’ body features, and the theoretical basis on patternmaking design is inadequate. Besides, the size is not fit in the consumers’ body feature. So, most college students cannot buy the well-fitted jeans, and the sense of restraint can always be felt during the wearing. This is the foundation that the research is brought forward.In this research, Three-dimensional human body scanner is used to the anthropometry of the male collage students. The data is collected and analysised, then the data of lower body characteristics is extracted. Draping method, body movement, and trousers style are considered in the building of the well-fitted jeans prototype.Finally, 9 jeans with different waist-line are designed and the comfortability are evaluated.This research consists of 5 parts :1) The consumer behavior questionnaire of male university students . Through the jeans consumer behavior survey of 338 male students from 6 universities in the western area, and the three aspects analysis of designing, marketing and wearing,the objectives and content of this study are clarified2) Data analysis of the body feature. Non-contact three-dimensional human body scanner is used in this research.The subjects are 233 college male students aged about 18-25, and were born in the western area of China. The 49 automatic reporting size and 5 derived variables from the three-dimensional human body scanner are statistically analysised 5 main factors and 15 characteristic indicators that can reflect the lower body feature is extracted.3) The size of lower body. According to the analysis of various characteristic indicators, waist hip difference and waist-hight/waist are useful. By using fast sample clustering method, the body features of the male students can be clustered into 5 categories, which are high-fat, thin, standard, short and stout. To follow the principle of 95% coverage, and the size of each intermediates, the lower body size that meet the requirements of clothing production are designed, then the coverage of trousers specifications is improved.4) The building and application of jeans Prototype. By using draping on the standard body, the basic protype is obtained.The quantity of tolerance on parts of the trousers that needed by typical dynamic state is also considered in the building of trousers basic prototype, and the well-fitted jeans prototype is set up based on the trousers basic prototype.After these works, various jeans styles are designed.This method simplified the jeans patternmaking process, improved the scientific and technical relevance of jeans’ fitting and comfort design.5) The evaluation of jeans wear-comfortability. By using real person wearing and subjective evaluation method, the experimental evaluation and pressure comfort evaluation of 9 jeans with different waist-lines are carried out. It is found out that all these jeans can meet the requirements of human comfort, the most comfort waist-line design is to make the upper part of the waist above the hip bone for 2cm, and lower the front center line 1.5cm, which verifying the importance of jeans prototype.This research can modify the present situation that most design is based on formula and experience, improve the application of prototype method in the jeans patternmaking, and act as a certain reference in the developing of personalized, multi-species, small quantity, well-fitted and comfortable jeans for clothing enterprises.更多还原