【作者】 孙鹏；

【导师】 李瑞洲；

【作者基本信息】 河北科技大学 ， 纺织工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 超早熟短季棉是一种生育期短、价格便宜的新型棉花品种。它的出现为稳定我国棉花产量,解决粮棉争地问题,降低纺织品成本都有着非常重要的意义。课题主要从超早熟短季棉纤维的物化性能、纺纱工艺、织造和后整理工艺、织物性能等几个方面进行了探讨和研究。测试分析了超早熟短季棉纤维的长度、细度、强度、成熟度、含杂、含水率、短绒率和含糖等物理机械性能和化学性质。结果表明:该纤维优点是纤维成熟度高、强力高、含糖低,缺点是长度偏短、细度较粗、含杂较多。从超早熟短季棉纤维物化性能入手系统研究其纯纺纱的纺制方法,并通过正交试验优化其梳理和细纱工艺。结果表明:1)改变梳棉机刺辊速度、道夫速度及锡林-盖板隔距,对超早熟短季棉纤维生条棉结数量、短绒率和杂质含量影响显著。刺辊速度对超早熟纤维生条棉结、短绒率的影响最大,应该采用适当的刺辊速度,增大锡林与刺辊的线速比;道夫速度对超早熟短季棉纤维生条杂质影响最大。2)改变细纱牵伸工艺的粗纱捻系数、后区牵伸倍数及后区隔距,对超早熟短季棉纱线的断裂强度、条干不匀率及毛羽数量影响显著。三者对纱线断裂强度影响都显著,后区牵伸倍数对纱线条干不匀率影响显著,后区隔距对毛羽数量影响显著。采用与普通细绒棉灯芯绒同样的织物组织结构、同样的织造工艺、同样的后整理工艺,成功开发了超早熟短季棉灯芯绒面料,最后发现超早熟短季棉灯芯绒色泽比普通灯芯绒更为鲜艳。测试结果表明:超早熟短季棉灯芯绒的拉伸断裂强度、经向撕裂强力、蓬松度、厚度、硬挺度、接触冷暖感、保暖性、透气性等性能均优于普通灯芯绒,超早熟短季棉灯芯绒的粗糙度、弹性回复率、导热性、毛细管效应均不如普通灯芯绒好,而其耐磨性、水洗色牢度与普通灯芯绒相当。更多还原

【Abstract】 Super short-quarter cotton is one new kind of cottons, which has short autumn and cheap price. It is appearance has very important significance to stabilization of cotton output of our country, solving contending soil between foodstuff and cotton and reducing cost of textile production. The subject mainly discussed and studied on the physical and chemical properties, spinning craft, weaving craft, back finishing craft and fabric performances of super short-quarter cotton fiber.Tested and analyzed physical and chemical properties of super short-quarter cotton fiber, such as length, degree of thinness, strength, degree of mature, trash content, water content, percentage of short fibers and sugar content and so on. The results shown that the advantage are high degree of mature and strength and low sugar content, the disadvantage are shorter length, thicker degree of thinness and more trash content.Researched on spinning craft of pure yarn based on the physical and chemical properties of super short-quarter cotton fiber, and optimized carding craft and yarn craft by orthogonal method. The results shown that: 1) Changing the speed of licker-in and doffer and the distance between cylinder and flats set remarkable influences the quantity of neps, percentage of short fibers and trash content. The speed of licker-in has the most influence on neps quantity, percentage of short fibers and trash content. Proper speed of take-in should be adopted in order to increase the line speed ratio between cylinder and licker-in; the speed of doffer has the most influence on trash content. 2) Changing the back space, back drafting multiple and roving twist coefficient of spinning drafting craft significantly influences breaking strength, fuzzy fiber of resultant yarn, and yarn irregularity. The three factors set remarkable influences to yarn breaking strength, back drafting multiple sets remarkable influences to yarn irregularity and the back space sets remarkable influences to fuzzy fiber of resultant yarn.Corduroy of super short-quarter cotton is succeeded developed by adopted the same fabric tissue structure, weaving craft and back finishing craft to common corduroy. Finally finding Corduroy of super short-quarter cotton has fresher color than common corduroy.tested results shown that corduroy of super short-quarter cotton has better tensile strength, warp orientation tearing strength, fleecy degree, thickness, endure degree, touching feel of cold or warm of fabric, heat preservation capability and air permeability than common corduroy. Common corduroy has better roughness, elasticity restore ratio, heat exchange capability and wicking property than super short-quarter cotton corduroy. They all have good wearability, wash-resistant colorfastness.更多还原