【作者】 贺鹏飞；

【导师】 张梅荣； 李美真；

【作者基本信息】 内蒙古工业大学 ， 纺织化学与染整工程， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 面对“花色流行,款式新颖”的服装消费观念,企业必须及时生产才能赢得市场。由于羊绒针织品采用纱线染色,生产周期短、效率快,可适用小批量,多品种,多花色的产品,所以纱线染色显得越来越重要。目前羊绒纱线的染色大多采用绞纱染色,但其弊端也较多。绞纱染色无法进行较大规模的批量生产,纱线批差多、易色花、消耗大、强力损伤较严重,织物最终手感欠佳。筒子纱染色可有效避免此类缺点。由于针织品与机织物的编制方法不同,对色差的要求更为苛刻,以至于目前国内对针织用羊绒筒子纱染色使用还较少,工艺很不完善,产品质量不稳定,所以有必要对羊绒筒子纱染色的工艺及匀染性进行研究和探讨。染色色差是印染企业最常见的质量问题,尤其是筒子纱染色过程中,纱线卷绕紧密导致筒子不同位置的纱线存在一定的色差,怎样消除和减轻内中外层色差是染色工作者长期遇到的复杂而又难以解决的质量问题。产生染色色差的因素是多方面的,它不仅涉及染色工序、技术方面,而且还与管理,设备和操作因素以及染化料等都有密切关系。整个过程错综复杂,任何一个环节的不当操作,都会“触一发而动全身”,影响最终的产品质量。本论文以羊绒筒子纱染色为例,在鄂尔多斯集团技术中心和东煦染色公司结合生产进行实验和测试,主要从羊绒的物理化学性能、筒子纱线结构和染色设备性能和染色工艺等几方面分析了染色流程中各个环节对染色色差的影响。通过单因素试验和正交试验,分析了纱线卷绕密度、升温曲线、染液流量、循环泵速、染浴pH值、盐量、匀染剂、浴比和保温温度等因素对色差的影响,找出影响羊绒筒子纱内中外层染色色差的最主要因素,调整出合理的染色工艺参数,制定出符合企业生产的优化工艺曲线,并利用优化的工艺参数和优化工艺曲线对羊绒筒子纱进行了生产实践验证,结果表明染色后的色纱在用于针织物时没有出现色差现象,最终达到消除筒子纱染色内中外层色差的目的,保证了产品的综合服用性能。更多还原

【Abstract】 According to the“popular designs, fashionable”clothing consumption, enterprises could gain the market if time to volume. Cashmere knitwear applicables to some products which are small quantities, various and multi-colour, because of its adopting yarn dyeing, short-term and efficiency, so yarn dyeing is increasingly important. At present most hank dyeing is used, but a lot of drawbacks there. Hank dyeing can not be used in large-scale quantity production, more difference between batches, colour easy to spend ,more expenditure, damage seriously and final fabric feels is not good. Cheese dyeing can effectively avoid such shortcomings. As a result of knitwear and woven fabrics are different from the preparation method , the requirements of colour difference is more stringent, such as to cashmere knitting yarn cheese dyeing is used less in the current domestic, the technology is not pefect, product quanlity is instable, so it is necessary to discover the technology and self-levelling of wool cheese dyeing.Colour difference is the most common quality problem in printing and dyeing enteiprises, especially in the cheese dyeing process. There is curtain colour difference consist in different location, because of the winding closely yarn, how to eliminate and reduce the colour difference in the inner ,middle and outer of yarn. Colour difference is produced in a wide range of factors, it not only involved in dyeing processes and technology ,but also with the management and operation of equipment as well as the dyes are colsely related. The whole process is very complicated, any one of the improper operation will be impact on the final product quality.In this thesis, a cheese dyeing cashmere as an example, experiments and tests combinated producting are taken in the Ordos Group Technical Center and the Dong Xu dyeing company, they mainly analyze aspects of all linkes in dyeing process from the physical and chemical properties of wool, cheese structures, dyeing performance and dyeing technology, etc. adopting single-factor experiments and orthogonal test analyzes the influence on all factors of colour difference, these factors include the following: yarn winding density, temperature rising curve, dye flowrate, circulating pump speed, dyebath pH, salt quatity, dye leveller, liquor ratio and holding temperature, etc. Founding the most important factor of colour difference , adjusting reasonable parameters of the dyeing process, drafting optimization process curve which adjusts production and taking production practice by useing optimized technological parameters and technology curve. The result shows there is no colour difference in the dyed yarn which used on the knitwear, attains the purpose of eliminating colour difference by cheese dyeing and ensures comprehensive performance as clothing of products.更多还原