【作者】 戴丁；

【导师】 沈为；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 本课题研究了彩色棉混纺针织物的起毛起球性能、起毛起球的影响因素、抗起毛起球整理以及整理后织物的服用性能,旨在保证彩色棉混纺针织物生态环保特性和优良服用性能的基础上,改善彩色棉混纺针织物的抗起毛起球性能。彩色棉是具有天然色彩的特种棉花,其产品无需染色,是一种绿色环保的产品,因此对彩色棉及其产品的研究具有生态、经济和社会效益。本课题首先以白棉针织物为对比织物,研究了彩色棉与白棉、Tencel、Modal、丽赛以及牛奶纤维等混纺针织物的起毛起球性能。实验结果表明:彩色棉混纺针织物的初始起球速度快,毛球数量多,平均质量小,起球的平台期较长,球体脱落的速度较慢,所以彩色棉混纺针织物的抗起毛起球性能比较差。其次,本课题分析了彩色棉混纺针织物的起毛起球机理,彩色棉混纺针织物的起毛起球过程遵循绒毛形成、缠结成球、球体增长和球体脱落四个阶段,分析结果表明:彩色棉纤维由于纤维长度短、天然卷曲数较少、纤维摩擦系数低,使纤维抱合力较差,且彩色棉纤维大多分布在纱体外侧,所以彩色棉纤维易从织物中滑移出来,与其他混纺纤维纠缠在一起而起球。再次,本课题从纤维性能、纱线性能、织物结构、后整理及织物洗涤等五个方面研究了彩色棉混纺针织起毛起球性能的影响因素。本课题测试了六种与彩色棉混纺的纤维的力学性能,十二种纱线的相关性能,编织了不同组织结构的针织物,对彩色棉混纺针织物进行生物酶抛光整理、水性聚氨酯整理以及生物酶抛光-水性聚氨酯复合抗整理,研究了洗涤对整理后织物起毛起球性能的影响,实验结果表明:彩色棉混纺针织物球体的支撑纤维并非彩色棉本身,而主要是Tencel、Modal、丽赛、牛奶以及细旦涤纶等混纺纤维,这些纤维的断裂强力、断裂伸长率以及耐疲劳性能比较优良,使其支撑的球体不易脱落;纱线的捻度大、毛羽数量少、条干均匀度高、纱线并股等都会改善彩色棉混纺针织物的抗起毛起球性能,而纺纱方式由于改变了纱线结构对织物起毛起球性能影响最大,其中以喷气涡流纺彩色棉/Modal混纺针织物的抗起毛起球性能最好;织物结构紧密、表面平整、尺寸稳定性好的彩色棉混纺针织物抗起毛起球性能好;通过生物酶抛光整理、水性聚氨酯整理以复合整理等抗起毛起球整理后,织物的抗起毛起球性能得到有效改善,其中以复合整理效果最佳;随洗涤次数和洗涤时间的增加,织物结构变得松散,织物表面绒毛逐渐变长、变密,织物抗起毛起球性能下降,其中生物酶抛光整理后织物的抗起毛起球性能下降较小,聚氨酯整理后织物的抗起毛起球性能下降较大。最后本课题对经过抗起毛起球整理的彩色棉混纺针织物进行了服用性能测试与分析,与整理前的织物性能相比,生物酶抛光整理后的织物的透气、透湿性提高,织物手感更加柔软,而经水性聚氨酯整理后的织物则得到相反的效果,复合整理综合了上述两种整理作用的特点,不仅保证了彩色棉混纺针织物柔软舒适的特性,而且明显的改善了织物的抗起毛起球性能。更多还原

【Abstract】 The fuzzing and pilling performance,influence factors,anti-pilling finishing and wearing property of colored cotton blended knitted fabrics were studied in this paper in order to improve its anti-pilling performance, meanwhile,its ecological and environmental friendly properties and good wearing properties were ensured.Colored cotton,born with natural color, whose products don’t require dying process,is a new kind of environmentally friendly fiber.So the research on colored cotton and its products will bring us ecological,economical and social benefits.First,by selecting cotton knitted fabric as a comparing specimen with colored cotton blended knitted fabric,we studied the fuzzing and pilling performance of colored cotton blended knitted fabrics,which blend with cotton,Tencel,Modal,Richcel and Milk fiber.The experiment indicated that colored cotton knitted fabrics began to appear pills fast,the number of pills was large and the average weight of pills was light, meanwhile the procedure of pilling lasted long time and the pills dropped slowly.So the fuzzing and pilling performance of colored cotton blended knitted fabrics are worse than cotton knitted fabrics.Second,the fuzzing and pilling mechanism of colored cotton blended knitted fabric were analyzed,we found that the pilling periods of colored cotton blended knitted fabric include four periods,fuzz formation, fuzz entanglement,pill growth and pill drop.The results showed that colored fiber was easy to slip out from the fabrics,and entangle with the other blended fibers to form pills,because of its short length,fewer natural curl,low friction coefficient,and the distribution of outer yarn.In addition,the factors that influence the fuzzing and pilling of colored cotton blended knitted fabrics were studied,including different fiber properties,yarn properties,fabric structures,finishing and washing times.The mechanical properties of six kinds of fibers blended with the colored cotton were tested,and the basic parameters and mechanical properties of twelve blended yarns were measured as well.The different knitted fabrics were weaved and treated with different methods,such as cellusoft CR,water-based polyurethane finishing and the compound finishing of the both.The fuzzing and pilling performance of the fabrics with different wash times were studied.The results showed that the part that support the pill were mainly Tencel,Modal,Richcel,Milk,as well as fine denier polyester,the reason may be that these fibers possessed better mechanical properties,such as higher breaking strength,breaking elongation and better fatigue-resistant properties.The high yarn twist, low hairiness and unevenness will improve the anti-pilling performance of colored cotton blended knitted fabric,and by changing yarn structure, the spinning method is one of the significant influence factors,and the Jet-Vortex spinning colored cotton/Modal blended knitted fabric hold the best anti-pilling performance.The tight fabric structure,flat surface and good dimensional stability will also improve the anti-pilling performance of colored cotton blended knitted fabric.Through the finishing with cellusoft CR,water-based polyurethane,as well as cellusoft CR→water-based polyurethane,the anti-pilling performance of the fabrics were improved effectively,and the compound finishing was the best one. With the increase in the times of washing,the fabric structure became looser,and the fuzz on fabric surface gradually grew longer and denser, so the anti-pilling performance of the fabric declined,and the anti-pilling performance of the fabric treated with cellusoft CR declined smaller than the fabric treated with water-based polyurethane.At last,the wearing properties of colored cotton blended fabrics were tested and analyzed after anti-pilling finishing.Bio-enzyme polishing fabric showed better breath,moisture permeability and soft handle compared with the untreated fabric.The opposite effects appeared after water-based polyurethane finish.The combined finishment of bio-enzyme polishing and water-based polyurethane endowed the fabric with soft handle and comfortable wearing properties.In addition,the anti-pilling property was improved significantly.更多还原