【作者】 马骁；

【导师】 张鹤泉；

【作者基本信息】 吉林大学 ， 中国古代史， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 本文以传世文献及部分考古发现成果为基本材料,探讨东汉时期国家正式确立的服饰制度。且分别从东汉服饰制度的确立、特点、实行过程中的违制现象和社会功能这四个方面对东汉的服饰制度进行试探性的考察。东汉时期是中国汉代服饰制度走向完善并正式确立的重要时期。国家根据儒家经典,以祭服和礼仪服饰为中心,对祭服、朝服及各项礼仪活动中所对应的不同服饰等做出了一系列的等级化规定,使东汉服饰制度得以正式确立。东汉的服饰制度以鲜明的等级性为主要特点,并具有明确的场合性、对使用者不同身份的象征性,对不同礼仪活动的标志性等特点,对使用者在国家统治运作系统中的位置予以明确的定位,亦成为东汉国家的“礼治”的政治管理模式的载体之一。东汉服饰制度与国家各项礼仪紧密结合,配合东汉国家其他等级制度,成为维持东汉国家统治秩序的重要的治理工具和手段。更多还原

【Abstract】 Eastern Han period, the country under the Confucian classics in order to worship and Court dress costumes as the center of ritual clothing, formal clothing and the ceremonial activities corresponding to the different costumes, such as Level and make a series of provisions, so that the system of the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes been formally established. System to the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes specific to the characteristics of Level reinforced the social hierarchy and become the Eastern Han Dynasty rulers to govern the country an important auxiliary tool. In this paper, drawing on previous research results based on handed down as part of the literature and the results of archaeological discoveries as the basic materials, clothes separately from the Eastern Han Dynasty established the system, characteristics,implementation process of the system in violation of the situation and the social function of this dress four areas of the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes system exploratory study.The first part of the system established by the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes. Major retrospective of this part of the Eastern Han Dynasty established the process of apparel system. Qin ceremony go out study, ritual costumes are black, the Western Han Dynasty inherited the Qin system, where there is little change. To the Eastern Han Dynasty during the reign of the Ming emperor, the nobility at Cang Liu’s suggestion, the Eastern Han Dynasty Confucian classics to country as the main basis for worship and ceremonial dress costumes as the center of ritual clothing, formal clothing and the ceremonial activities corresponding to different costumes, etc. to make a series of Level of provisions, so that the system of the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes finally been established. However, the Ming emperor did not fully reproduce these ancient rituals of the ancient and really achieve the resurrection of the ancient regime, but has chosen to rule the country in line with the Eastern Han Dynasty the direction necessary to make the greatest efforts. At the same time, the system established at the course by the influence of yin yang and five elements theory.The second part of the characteristics of the system of the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes. This part of the main system of the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes specific occasions, and Level of distinct, different costumes for different symbolic identity, and its activity in different manners, such as a sign of some characteristics of the exploratory study. First of all, the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes classification system detailed and clear: Sunday, the ancestral temple rituals and other major activities of worship have special costumes, Level of court dress, such as clear-cut. Eastern Han Dynasty court dress of the different shapes of the hats, the Eastern Han Dynasty to become the ruling class used to distinguish the status of an important symbol of identity, the Eastern Han Dynasty court dress is also a major feature. Level system of the Eastern Han dynasty costumes even more distinctive characteristics. Level of people of different political dressed up in different places of worship in particular, costumes, court dress formal dress, with the users of high political level or low on service system is also obvious there is a corresponding difference in that society in the Eastern Han Dynasty, dress corresponding to the individual and his political indivisibility Level close contact.And for different ceremonial costumes of the corresponding application has also become a country of the Eastern Han to distinguish the different activities of the distinct signs etiquette.Third part of the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes in the process of implementing the system in violation of system situation. This part of the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes system implemented in society, particularly for society on the situation in violation of dress inspection system. Luxury of such a phenomenon sometimes happen, to become the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes undermine the hierarchy of the main problems. Eastern Han Dynasty "strange apparel" is also involved in fashion in violation of the system, it is worth a specific analysis.The fourth part of the system of the Eastern Han Dynasty costumes social functions. Eastern Han Dynasty costumes system reinforces the strong hierarchy of the Eastern Han society and become the system of the Eastern Han Dynasty at National Level on the distinctive costumes reflected. Send name in the "ceremony" under the strict hierarchy of clothing, maintenance of the Eastern Han Dynasty rule and the country social order. At the same time, the rulers Level costumes are used to reward, to rope in and pacify the civilian ministers and one of the means of clothing the use of a flexible system of rulers in the country’s governance is more beneficial. Eastern Han dynasty clothing system and the country etiquette close contact with other systems in the Eastern Han Dynasty country has become to maintain the order of the Eastern Han Dynasty ruled country of the essential tools and instruments of governance.更多还原