【作者】 齐林；

【导师】 任进；

【作者基本信息】 中国地质大学（北京） ， 设计艺术学， 2009， 硕士

【摘要】 在现代艺术思潮的引导下,首饰在传统意义上具备的装饰美化、彰显地位、显示财富等诸多功能逐步弱化了。首饰要表现设计者或佩戴者代表的文化品位,人生的态度,体现对大自然的向往、对现代文明的反思、对传统文化的追忆、对精神层面的探索等等功能。伴随着社会的发展,各种新思想、新材料和新工艺的不断涌现,使现代首饰呈现出自由化、多元化和综合性的发展趋势。对自然的崇尚的心理永远都不会消退,只会愈演愈烈。既然“稀少即是昂贵”,那么纯净而生机昂然的自然物越来越被认为是现代人每日生活中难得一见的内容了,这种想要感受自然的情怀是具象化风格不衰的沃壤。这是自然类主题永远时尚的精神基础。现代首饰设计理念认为金、银等贵金属以外的非常规材料的多样化因其丰富的物理、化学性质成为了传达设计思想的载体,从而折射出社会文化的丰富程度和多样化。以传统材质为主体,新材质、新工艺为补充的组合材质的首饰作品,符合了今天以至未来一段时期社会文化的需求。而适应这一行业发展需求的设计师要努力培养和驾驭自己具备的创造意识和突破能力,拥有广泛的知识和多种专业的丰厚修养,成为集综合工程师、艺术家、市场分析师等身份为一身,能够运用现有首饰设计研究成果和经验,并在横向的多学科联系融合中实现自我综合价值的通才。未来的首饰将不仅仅当作一种自我个性宣泄的符号,它是开放的、充满变数的,会成为人与人之间达成更好沟通的信息和标识,成为促进人与人之间能够更好交流的媒介。现代首饰设计师要作为这种信息交流系统中的创造者。更多还原

【Abstract】 Under the guidance of modern art trend, bijouterie’s traditional means beauty decoration, show status, show treasure etc. Instead of that’s decrease, it stands for designer’s creativity, wearer’s taste style, life attitude, nature desire, searching modern civilization, tracing tradition culture.Different sort of new thinking, new materials, new technology and craft coming up, lead the modern bijouterie industry to a liberty, diversification and comprehensiveness developing way.K Look over the history of human being, adoration nature has been never disappeared from the bottom of people’s heart. Even today it’s thought more and more valuable. I also believed that’s why pure natural matter is the basic of vogue.In modern bijouterie design ideas, besides gold, silver and some other noble metal, there is unconventionality material with plenty physics, chemistry character become a extensive material being used with tradition material in the industry. The new material and craft are fulfilling the new needs of design and marketing.The Industry request a professional designer need to make great efforts be a creative, knowledgeble, skillful engineer, artist, marketing & sales analyst. No only showing his design ideas, but also can be understood by people. Then bijouterie is not only a sign of personality, but also communication signal and an opened way to communicating people. Bijouterie designer should be a creator in this system.更多还原