【作者】 姜川；

【导师】 刘国联；

【作者基本信息】 苏州大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2008， 硕士

【摘要】 传统的服装样板制作方法主要的依据是成衣尺寸或者人体的基本尺寸,根据经验计算出衣片各细部的比例数值进行样板设计,或者先绘制出原型,然后根据经验在原型基础上进行服装样板设计,设计过程为手工作业,花费时间久,对样板师的经验依赖性强。近年来服装CAD的应用,虽然在一定程度上提高了样板设计速度,但其只是借助计算机来代替传统的手工样板设计程序,并没有摆脱对样板师经验的依赖,其设计过程也并非是智能的。本文以“从人体直接生成服装样板”这样一个新的理念出发,从一个新的角度审视服装结构,通过分析人体体型特征,研究人体与服装之间的关系,达到人体体型与样板直接相连,实现服装样板的智能化生成。本文从人体体型特征分析、男装样板规则分析、男装款式分析三个方面入手,研究了青年男性上体体型及其服装样板规则,并以男衬衫为例,完成男上装样板自动生成系统的开发。首先,论文分析了男体体型特点,确定出描述体型特征的特征参数,进而通过人体测量实验,得到必要的参数,并得到部分参数的替代方案。其次,论文分析了体型特征参数与服装样板对应关系、服装样板图中曲线绘制方法以及人体运动对样板的影响,制定出样板的一般绘制方法。最后,论文以男衬衫为例,分析男装款式变化对样板的影响等问题,制定出个性化男衬衫样板的绘制规则,并依据此规则编制男上装样板自动生成系统,实现从体型到样板的自动化过程,完成了男衬衫样板自动生成系统。更多还原

【Abstract】 The conventional garment pattern making is a time consuming hard work, very depending on the pattern makers’experiences. Recently, although the pattern making can be accelerated by using the apparel CAD systems, the pattern makers’experience still can not be substituted for.In this thesis, the relationship between the man’s upper body form and the rules of men’s upper wear pattern design were investigated, and an automatic pattern making system was developed based on it.Firstly, by analyzing men’s body forms, the characteristic measures to describe the feature of each body form were found out.Secondly, through the analysis on the correlativity between the characteristic measures and paper patterns, the method of curve drawing, and the influence of body motion on the patterns, the rules of the basic pattern model for men’s upper wear were established.Finally, the relationship between men’s upper wear styles and the corresponding patterns was analyzed, and thus the automatic pattern making system was developed.更多还原