【作者】 刘丁；

【导师】 余国兴；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 从20世纪70年代开始针织服装在整个世界范围内日益受到了人们的青睐，世界服装领域呈现出向针织服装发展的趋势。近十年来，随着国内外市场对针织服装需求的不断扩大，我国针织服装行业得到了迅猛发展。在加工方面甚至超过了国外，但与发达国家相比，还有很大差距，主要体现在对针织服装的基础性研究上。原来的针织服装重视内衣，对服装的板型要求并不是特别高，但随着针织服装内衣外穿化，时装化，多元化的发展趋势，针织服装的设计手法，款式结构，缝纫工艺等也相应发生了很大变化，对针织服装原型的基础理论研究提出了更高的要求。随着针织服装品种的日益丰富和消费者对针织品要求的提高，随着新型纺织材料日新月异的变化革新，如何结合女性人体特征、结合针织面料的特性以及服装样板构成原理进行针织服装结构设计成为值得探讨的问题。本文主要内容如下：一、常用针织面料服用性能研究。通过对厚度、克重、纵密度、横密度、悬垂系数、拉伸力、弹性回复率、塑性变形率、应力松弛率等参数进行测试，比较不同组织针织面料性能之间的差异及规律，并将各指标值作为考察服装尺寸变化的因子，通过灰色模型建模，有效地获得了各指标值与服装尺寸变化的关系。二、不同松量条件下针织服装原型尺寸研究从服装压力的产生及施力分析和服装压影响因素出发确定以4cm、0cm、-6cm为放松量分别进行立体裁剪试验，通过试验获得了服装宽度方向、长度方向尺寸变化，前后浮余量变化，腰节差、肩斜变化等各个部位与面料性能参数间相关的规律性，为针织服装原型建立提供了依据。三、针织服装原型建立及影响因素研究通过灰色模型获得了面料服用性能各指标值与服装尺寸变化的关系，并在立体裁剪的基础上建立针织原型，以针织原型为依据分析各主要因素与针织服装原型细部尺寸变化的关系，探讨了服装压与皮肤伸长率、服装宽松率、面料弹性性能的数学关系，获得了针织服装原型结构设计的原则。最后通过实践检验结论的正确性。本论文采用理论与实践相结合的方法，在进行理论研究的基础上，通过实践进行验证，其结论是具有一定的科学性和可靠性的。与对机织服装结构设计和松量设计研究的思路不同，本论文是通过对不同放松量情况下立体裁剪试验和针织面料测试试验获得针织服装原型，结论可以为今后针织服装结构设计与优化，尤其是紧身针织服装的结构设计以及针织服装压力研究，提供一定的理论参考。更多还原

【Abstract】 In the 1970s, Knitted apparel has became a current trend to in the apparel field all over the world. It has attracted more and more attention. These years, as the requirement of knitwear in fashion market has risen in both our country and abroad, the development of knitted apparel in our country has wide prospect. In some areas in our country, it has developed more quickly than the other foreign countries, but if compared with some developed countries, we may find the big differences, especially the structure design theory of the knitted apparel still lagged behind. Many years ago, knitted apparel is mainly based on underwear, but nowadays it pays more attention to other fields. As the development of fashion and clothes, the design methods in knitted apparel, the structure of knitted apparel, and the sewing methods of knitted apparel have all changed much. And it deserves more research on the structure theory of knitted apparel.As the improvement of people’s needs, and the change in weave material has taken place, how to do knitted apparel structure design in regard to the characteristics of women’s body and the property of knitted fabric is becoming an important question.The thesis’s main points are as follows:1. Researching on usually used knitted fabricDo some tests on thickness, weight, density, pendency modulus, stretching power, stretching recovery rate, model distortion ratio, stress relaxation ratio, and take these statistics as the basis for the research of gray mathematic model. Through doing some counting, find the relationship between these statistics and the clothes size.2. Researching on prototype according to different loosen amounts of the bustDo some research on the engender of clothes pressure and analyze the pressure and infection factors. And then do drape cutting according to different loosen amounts of 4cm, 0cm, -6cm, from this research we will find the variation in length, width of clothes, and the variation in loosen amounts both front and back prototype, the differences from front prototype and back prototype, and the variation on shoulder, find the rule and this research is the basis of the knitwear prototype3. Establishing knitwear prototype and analyze infection factorsThrough gray mathematic model, gain the relationship between property of knitted fabric index and the variation of clothes size, establishing knitwear prototype on the basis of drape cutting, analyze the main factors and the detail size of knitwear prototype, discuss the mathematic relationship between clothes pressure and skin stretching rate, different loosen amounts rate of the bust, stretching property of knitted fabric. Gain rules on structure design of knitwear, at last, checkout the correct of the rules.Through combining practice and theory, and on the basis of basic theory research, the last conclusion is reliable and scientific, different from the researching method of woven fabric, this thesis gain knitwear prototype on the background of the conclusion which makes from the compare of different loosen amounts of the bust, and on the background of testing results on different kinds of knitted fabric. And the conclusion is useful to structure design of knitwear, especially for knitwear which is suitable for close-fitting patterns, and it is useful for clothes pressure research.更多还原