【作者】 石春乐；

【导师】 张文斌；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 面对信息化和数字化的浪潮，服装基础理论该如何适应时代的发展，这是科研工作者和服装生产企业面临的崭新课题。本论文主要研究中南地区男西服衣身平衡与面料、纸样、工艺的配伍及其数字化判别的方法。本论文在结合前人研究的基础上，阐述了体型分类的四个约束条件。从人体体型的立体性出发，首次提取了男子躯干的24个体型结构特征参数以及基于MTM的男子体型立体分类原理，使任何个体体型都可以通过不同的结构特征参数组合来准确的表示。论文以中南地区男子测体数据为例，结合男子躯干体型立体分类原理，将24个结构特征参数的档差设置为七档，得到每个结构特征参数的七个档差的分布范围，实现了中南地区的男子躯干体型数字化判别。在此基础上进一步分析了中南地区的典型体以及中南地区男子躯干的总体特征，得到中南地区标准体的细部规格尺寸。保持衣身结构平衡是服装结构设计的基本要求，这涉及到浮余量的处理。论文通过立体裁剪实验，分析了中南地区男子标准体的前后衣身浮余量及其分配规律。男西服的合体性要求高于女西服，结构方法是处理浮余量的重要途径。结构技术的数字化相对比较成熟，但对经验的依赖程度仍然较大。论文分析了男西服衣身平衡的几种主要结构处理方法。面料的成形性主要指二维面料制成三维服装时面料性能对服装三维曲面造型的适合程度。论文选用毛涤成分为主的六种毛织物，分别测试六种织物的纤维成分，织物组织，厚度，织物重量，细度等基本规格参数，并用KES—F系统测量六种织物的低应力力学性能。通过对六种毛织物KES—F测试结果的分析，得到六种面料的TAV值，实现毛纵物成形性的数字化判别。结合高质量织物域，比较分析了六种毛织物的TAV值。论文分析了六种毛织物基本规格参数与毛织物在成形性上的三个不同侧重方面曲面造型Z₁，弹性Z₂，悬垂性Z₃的相关性，得出的一系列结论为更理性的选择毛织物提供参考。此外，还讨论了面料的基本规格参数与毛织物的汽蒸压烫缩率的关系，为毛织物的预处理提供理论支持。工艺归拢是处理浮余量的重要手段，是服装缝制工艺中的重要环节，对高档服装的外形起着再度塑造的作用。影响毛织物最大归拢率MC的因素主要基本规格参数和面料的低应力力学性能等。本章对六种毛织物所有参数指标进行统计分析，建立了最大归拢率MC的数学模型，为毛织物的工艺归拢量的数字化判别提供参考。此外，还分析了六种面料的基本规格参数与工艺最大归拢量MC的关系，对归拢工艺操作要点的理论化，数字化作了一定的探索。更多还原

【Abstract】 Facing the tide of informationization and digitization, how the basic clothing theory accommodate with the trend is a brand-new subject that scientific researcher and the clothing production enterprise is facing. It is chiefly studied in the thesis that the matching of material, pattern, technique about the cutting shape of man’s suit, and also the digital discriminance.On the foundation of forefathers’ research, four restriction conditions of body shape are illustrated. With three-dimensional character of the human body type, it’s for the first time drew 24 structure characteristic parameters of man’s trunk as well as the man’s three-dimensional classification principle of body shape based on MTM, which makes any individual body type expressed by different sets of structure characteristic parameters accurately. Taking 301 samples in Central South district man as exemple and combining with man’s three-dimensional classification principle of body shape, the 24 structure characteristic parameters are set into seven parts, which realizes the digital discriminance of man’s trunk in Central South. On the foundation, the thesis also analyzed the typical body shape and overall characteristic of the man’s in Central South, and find out the detail spec of the standard shape.Keeping the cutting shape is the basic requirements of clothing pattern design, which involves the processing of complement. It is also analyze in the thesis that the allowance of front complement and back complement and the distribution law of them by way of three-dimensional cutting.Compared with the women’s clothing, the structural design method of menswear is not so various and complicated, but the requirement of fitting is higher. The structure method is the key way to deal with the complement allowance. The digital of structure technology is relatively ripe, but still depends on experience a lot. The thesis analysed the main structure method of keeping cutting shape.Formality of material means the fitting degree of the ability of flat fabric changing into three-dimensional garment. Taking six abas mainly containing polyester and wool as exemple, it’s tested in the thesis that basic parameters of fiber ingredient, fabric structure, thickness, weight, thinness, and the mechanics performance in low stress measured by KES-F. By analyzing the result, the thesis discriminates the material TAV by digital and gets the TAV of six abas. Combining with the fabric field of high quality, this thesis analyzed the TAV of six fabrics. The thesis also discusses the relativity between basic parameters and the three aspects of Formality in curved modelling Z₁, elasticity Z₂, dangling Z₃. In additional, it discusses the relativity between basic parameters and Locked Press Shrinkage, providing theoretic supports for abas pretreatment.Technical crinkling is the important means to deal with complement allowance, and is the important way of sewing technique. The factor sinfluences the max crinke rate mostly are basic parameters and results of KES-F. The thesis analyzed statistically the relativity between overall parameters of six fabrics and MC , providing theoretic supports for technique operations by digital.更多还原