【作者】 巴桂玲；

【导师】 张文斌；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 本文基于立体构成技术，对服装特殊结构进行研究，将其技术手法总结为六种，技术理论总结为三个方面；针对其中两种手法的三种造型进行重点研究，研究服装结构和服装面料对造型的影响，得到配伍关系模型，用以指导正确的造型设计、结构设计和面料选择。本文总体框架分为特殊结构立体构成、结构因素、面料因素三个主要内容进行研究。特殊结构立体构成的研究是在阅读和分析大量文献基础上，通过技术分析，对2000多款特殊结构服装进行归纳总结，破译和创造了38款特殊结构服装，将其立体构成技法归纳为扭转、结合体、折屈、几何体的空间立体塑造、特殊分割线和夸张等6种，并分别对它们进行定义，总结它们在造型位置设置、纸样展开过程和衣身平衡3个方面的理论共性，为深入研究其中重点造型斜向皱褶(扭转)、螺旋皱褶(扭转)、斜裁(特殊分割线)提供研究依据。在结构因素影响的研究中，对斜向皱褶服装按照松量和位移的变化设计试验，对螺旋皱褶服装按照位移方向设计试验，对斜裁服装按照松量和省道量设计试验，利用GERBER数字仪和裁床，制作44件斜向皱褶、7件螺旋皱褶和6件斜裁服装，共得到57套样板。通过对专家的问卷调研，对其服装评分，选择最佳造型，使用SPSS工具对各服装造型变化数值与结构样板之间的关系进行相关性分析和回归分析，研究结构对于各造型的影响，得到回归关系模型和最佳配伍组合模型。在面料因素影响的研究中，选取10种面料，对14项性能进行测试。后挑选其中6种面料制作3种造型服装共18件。由专家对每种造型的服装分别进行排序。后利用SPSS工具对面料性能和造型的关系进行多元回归分析和逐步回归分析，得到面料各方面性能对造型的影响以及面料性能与造型之间的配伍关系模型。上述研究从诸方面为服装特殊结构的造型设计提供结构设计手法、面料性能配伍等技术支持，有益于该类造型的立体构成效率和造型的完美。更多还原

【Abstract】 Based on solid formation technique, this dissertation has studied the special structure of clothing, summed up its technique to six kinds and technical theories to three aspects. This dissertation has focused on three kinds of sculpt and studied the influence on the sculpt by the clothing pattern and fabric. Finally it has gained the matching models to guide the right shape design, the pattern design and the choice of the fabric.This dissertation has consisted of three models including the special structure of clothing, clothing structure and fabric models. Firstly, by reading and analyzing a great deal of cultural heritage foundation, passing the technique analysis, translating and creating 38 special structure clothing, the special structure module has summed up its technique to six kinds and the technique theories to three aspects; trying to provide a useful reference for the researches and developments of the bias gauffer, spiral gauffer and bias cut. Secondly, the clothing structure factor module mainly has talked about the Correlation and Regression between shapes and the clothing structure and the influence on shapes, establishing the matching model between shapes and the clothing structure, basing on 44 bias gauffer clothes, 7 spiral gauffer clothes and 6 bias cut clothes; using GERBER cutting bed and SPSS. All of the clothes has been scored by 10 experts.Finally, the fabric factor module mainly has talked about the Correlation and Regression between shapes and the fabric performance and the influence on shapes, establishing the matching model between shapes and the fabric performance, basing on 6 different fabrics , 14 different performance testing and 18 clothes; using GERBER cutting bed, weight testing, thickness testing, drapability testing, KES testing and SPSS.The research above-mentioned has provided the technique support, including the structure design skills and the fabric performances matching model, to the shape design of the special structure, being good for the solid formation efficiency of that type and perfecting the shapes.更多还原