【作者】 李莹；

【导师】 丁雪梅；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 纺织服装工业作为我国的传统优势产业，对我国出口贸易做出了重要贡献。近年来，欧美等发达国家不断运用技术性贸易措施限制我国的纺织服装产品出口，这要求我们要认真分析研究国际和国外标准，寻找优势和差距，建立和完善我们的标准体系，打破国外技术性贸易壁垒，促进产品出口。本文首先研究了我国纺织品服装主要贸易国家(美国、欧盟及其成员国、日本等)的标准体系情况，仔细分析了发达国家的纺织品服装产品标准的分类、考核项目及其指标的设置，研判了国外一些大采购商的客户标准的要求和检测机构技术指南，比较得出了我国与发达国家的标准间的差异。其次，深入研究了我国纺织品服装的典型基础标准和方法标准与ISO标准和其他发达国家标准间的差异，并提出相关的建议。1)对比分析国内外疵点术语标准和我国该标准的应用情况，指出我国的疵点术语标准目前存在应用不足和术语同形同义较多的问题，提出了完善和整合疵点术语标准并推广使用的建议。2)比较我国和美国的织物疵点检验方法(4分制和10分制)的异同，提出废除我国目前的疵点检验方法，等同采用国外先进标准，对不同布类采用相同的检验方法不同接收要求的建议。3)比较国内外耐次氯酸盐漂白色牢度测试方法，以及国外产品标准中对漂白色牢度的考核要求，提出修订我国耐氯漂色牢度方法标准，并在产品标准中增加相关的考核指标的建议。4)比较国内外标准中具有代表性的洗涤方法与ASTM织物产品标准对洗后外观的要求，提出我国纺织品服装产品标准中增加洗后外观的考核。经过以上比较研究，结合发达国家的产品标准的分类及要求，建议将我国的纺织品服装标准由原来的生产型向贸易型转变，建立以服用织物分类标准和服装标准构成的通用的新的标准体系。1．服用织物分类标准服用织物分类标准的产品根据服装的最终用途的类型分类，分为外衣类、中衣类、内衣类、饰件类和粗斜纹布类等5大类。在质量控制方面，根据我国的国情，将适合新的分类体系的考核项目主要分为强制性要求、护理标签要求、主要质量控制要求及其他和功能性要求等5部分。(1)强制性要求包括纤维含量，甲醛、pH值和燃烧性等安全性能和耐水、耐汗渍、耐干摩以及耐唾液色牢度等。(2)护理标签要求包括水洗、干洗和熨烫尺寸变化率和耐洗、耐氯漂、耐干洗和耐熨烫等色牢度。(3)主要质量控制要求主要包括断裂、撕破和顶破强力，纱线抗滑移以及耐湿摩和耐光色牢度，其中各项强力和纱线抗滑移根据织物单位面积质量的不同而有所差异。(4)其他要求主要包括耐光汗和耐烟熏色牢度，起球，钩丝，绒毛保持性，耐磨性和洗后外观等。(5)功能性要求包括耐氯化水和耐海水色牢度，防水性，耐久熨烫，抗菌性和钻绒率等。2．服装标准对于服装的考核要求包括标签、强力、洗后外观及其耐洗(干洗)性能等四部分。(1)标签要求包括号型、纤维含量和护理标签、原产国等相关的规定。(2)强力包括织物、口袋、拉链和加固应力集中点的接缝强力，金属附件和实用装饰品的固定强力以及覆粘合衬部位剥离强力等。(3)洗后外观是指接缝外观和褶皱外观。(4)服装的耐洗(干洗)性能包括洗后扭曲率、里面料尺寸变化率差量、印花和涂层的耐洗性、拼色和绣花线要求、拉链及钮扣的耐洗性等。更多还原

【Abstract】 Textiles and apparel industries of China are making important contributions to China’s export trade every year. However some developed countries such as the United States and European countries continue to use the technical trade measures to restrict China’s exports recently. In order to find advantages and gaps between Chinese and developed countries’ standard systems, compared studies were done in this paper.Firstly, the standard systems, the product classification, testing items and requirements of product standards of our major trading countries (the United States, the EU and its member states, Japan and so on) were studied. And the differences between China and developed countries were found, referred to comparisons of the requirements of product standards in developed countries, the end-users’ product standards and the guides of independent testing organization which basedon a user’s point of view. Secondly, the differences of developed countries and some relevant useful suggestions were given based on investigating typical basic standards and method standards among ISO, AATCC or ASTM, JIS and GB or FZ.1) The deficiencies of applications and the same or similar terms in standard terminology relating to fabric defects were pointed out by analysis of ISO, ASTM and related Chinese standards and the applications in the products and method standards in China. Suggestions to modify and improve our related standards were given.2) By comparing the similarities and differences of the fabric defects inspection system (four-point system and ten-point system) between China and the United States, the suggestions to discontinue the current test methods, equal to use the advanced standards to inspect the different kinds of fabrics were pointed out.3) Different test methods of the colorfastness to hypochlorite bleach were compared and some requirements of fabrics and apparel were summed up. Suggestions on modifying the test method and the requirement of colorfastness to hypochlorite bleach in Chinese standard were given.4) Different laundering test methods were compared and requirements of ASTM product standards were referred. Specifications of fabrics should have the requirements about fabric appearance in Chinese standard which was pointed out.After above comparisons, a new trade-oriented standard system of fabrics and apparel which includes the standard of fabrics use for apparel and apparel standard in combination with requirements from developed standard was established.1. Standard of fabrics use for apparelThe classification of fabrics based on the end-use of clothing includes outer wears, middle wears, under wears, accessories and denim and so on.In the part of quality control, according to Chinese national situation, the new system will be classified to mandatory requirements, requirements of care label, quality control items and others, and functional requirements and etc.(1) Mandatory requirements include fiber content, safety requirements such as formaldehyde, pH value and flammability and so on and colorfastness to water, perspiration, crocking of dry and saliva.(2) Requirements of care label include dimensional stability of laundering, dry cleaning and pressing and finishing and colorfastness to laundering, hypochlorite bleach, dry cleaning and pressing.(3) Quality control of the main demands includes strength of breaking, tear and bursting, yarn slippage and colorfastness to crocking of wet and light. And the kinds of strength and yarn slippage have different requirements of mass per unit area. Others include colorfastness to light and perspiration and burnt-gas fumes, pilling, snagging, pile retention, abrasion resistance and smooth appearance.(4) Functional requirements include colorfastness to chlorinated water and sea, waterproof performances, durable pressing, antibacterial properties and down proof properties and so on.2. Apparel standardIt makes up of requirements of label, strength, appearance after laundering (dry cleaning) and washable (drycleanable) performance for apparel standard.(1) Requirements of label include size designation, fiber content and care label, country of origin and relevant prescriptions.(2) Strengthsof apparel include seam strength of fabrics, pockets, zipper, reinforced stress points, and anchored strength of metal accessories and decorations, and adhesive ability of interfacing.(3)Appearances after laundering (dry cleaning) include seam smoothness and crease retention.(4) Washable (drycleanable) performances cover torque of laundering (dry cleaning), dimensional stability of lining compatible with shell, print and coated fabrics durability, requirements of color block and sewing thread, and zipper and button durability and so on.更多还原