【作者】 王宝静；

【导师】 龙海如；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织工程， 2007， 硕士

【摘要】 随着生活水平的提高，人们对纺织品的服用要求也越来越高。我们都喜欢棉布的外观和手感，但是棉布也有缺陷：衣物容易起皱、缩水和褪色。性能优良的纤维是人们永远的追求，作为一种新型的锦纶66，Supplex纤维结合了传统棉布的优点和现代纤维技术带来的高品质优点。Supplex纤维具有柔软、舒适、高强耐磨、不起皱、不缩水等特性。目前，Supplex纤维织物在国内外纺织领域的开发应用较少。本研究的目的，旨在对Supplex纤维织物的可编织性、染色工艺、一般服用性能和热湿舒适性进行探索。本课题以17.6tex Supplex长丝和18.2tex棉纱线为实验原料，通过对Supplex纬编针织物可编织性的试验研究，选用纬平针组织和双罗纹组织进行织物的编织，并考虑了编织过程的影响因素。在编织了不同组织的针织物后，对织物进行染色、练漂、柔软等后处理。我们选用活性染料，选择合理的染料用量、染色温度、染色时间、染色浴比等，对Supplex纤维针织物进行染色，采用正交分析方法，探索了Supplex纤维针织物的最佳染色工艺；此外还选择了合理的化学试剂和助剂，对棉织物进行练漂处理。在对织物分别染色、练漂后，我们选用有机硅柔软剂对织物进行了柔软处理；并对织物的热定型进行了探讨。在针织物加工后，我们进行了织物的拉伸弹性回复性、折皱回复性、耐磨性、起毛起球性、悬垂性、弯曲刚度等性能的测试，比较了Supplex针织物和棉针织物的各项性能。在实验的基础上，采用灰色关联分析的方法，对Supplex纤维织物的一般服用性能进行了综合分析与评价。通过对织物的一般服用性能分析，我们进行了织物的热湿舒适性研究。测试了织物的保暖性、透气性、透湿性、导湿性等性能，对比分析了Supplex针织物与棉针织物的热湿性能。在实验的基础上，我们采用灰色聚类的方法，对Supplex纤维针织物的热湿舒适性进行了综合分析与评价。更多还原

【Abstract】 With the improvement of the life, our demand on fabric becomes higher and higher. We all like the cotton fabric such as its appearance and handling, but the cotton fabric is liable to fade, shrink and crease. The fiber’s good properties are our expectation. As a new PA fiber, Supplex fiber is a combination of soft and tenacity, it provides fabric with high strength, abrasion resistance, crease resistance, shrinkage resistance and comfort. At present, the Supplex fiber is exploited and applied rarely. We hope that our study can give some references of processing, dyeing, wearing properties, thermal and wet comfort for the Supplex knitted fabric.The author selected the 17.6tex Supplex filament yarn and 18.2tex cotton yarn as our test materials. The knitting possibilities were explored and plain and interlock fabric were produced. During the knitting some influencing factors were investigated.After knitting, the fabrics were carried on finishing such as dyeing, scouring and bleaching, etc. The author selected the active dyes and the logical dye time, dye temperature, dye liquor ratio and the dose of the dyestuffs to impart color on the Supplex fabric. Orthogonal testing method was used to analyze the effect of dyes dose, dyeing time and temperature on dyeing quality, and the optimal dyeing technology of Supplex fabric was explored. The reasonable chemical reagent and acids were used to scour and bleach the cotton fabric. Afterwards, the organic silicon was selected to have the fabrics mellowed. Finally heat set technology of the fabrics was probed.The author tested elastic recovery, crease recovery, abrasion resistant, pilling property, draping property and bending strength of the fabrics. Each wearing property of the Supplex fabric was analyzed and compared with the cotton fabric. The grey relationship analysis was used to analyze and estimate the wearing property of the Supplex knitted fabric.The comfort of the fabric was also studied. The author tested heat insulating ability, air permeability, moisture permeability and water consulting ability of the fabrics. Each thermal and wet property of the Supplex fabric was analyzed and compared with the cotton fabric. The gray clustering analysis was used to analyze and estimate thermal and wet property comfort of the Supplex knitted fabric.更多还原