羊绒针织筒子纱染色工艺及匀染性的探讨

【作者】 王勇；

【导师】 张健飞； 张志；

【作者基本信息】 天津工业大学 ， 纺织工程， 2006， 硕士

【摘要】 随着市场的变化,羊绒纱线的染色越来越重要。羊绒针织品采用纱线染色生产周期短、效率快,可适用小批量,多品种,多花色的产品。 羊绒纱线的染色大多采用绞纱染色,但弊端也较多。绞纱染色形不成较大规模的批量生产,纱线批差多、易色花、消耗大、强力损伤较严重,针织品的手感也差。筒子纱染色可有效避免此类缺点。但由于针织品编制方法不同,目前国内对针织用羊绒筒子纱染色使用还较少,工艺不太完善,产品质量不稳定,所以有必要对羊绒筒子纱染色的工艺及匀染性进行研究和探讨。 课题主要通过试验、理论研究以及结合大生产的实际情况,来探讨从工艺到设备各个环节、各种参数对染色匀染性的影响,从而找出提高匀染性的最佳控制点和系统工艺参数,保证产品质量的稳定性。 研究羊绒的物理化学性能,合理选择染料助剂。分析染色流程中各个环节对染色匀染性的影响,总结大生产实践中出现的各种问题。 研究国际先进的全自动筒纱染色及配套设备的性能,全面进行消化和吸收,制定最合理的设备工艺参数,达到设备工艺参数的最优化。 通过试验和测试的研究表明,筒纱染色除温度、时间、pH值等常规控制点外,筒子纱的卷绕成型密度是保证筒纱匀染性的关键因素。粗纺和精纺的密度选择不当很容易造成筒子纱里外层的色差。同时发现一缸中筒纱与简纱的成形或重量稍有差异,也会出现筒与筒之间的色差,通过数据分析,制定合理密度参数,并总结出控制密度一致性的有效方法。 课题还研究了不同工艺参数对纱线染色的色差、牢度以及光泽手感的影响。具体分析不同染料助剂对染色匀染性的作用。总结出一套从设备到工艺,从染料到助剂合理选择和使用的最佳方案,保证产品的匀染性,保证产品的综合服用性能。 通过对针织用羊绒筒子纱染色工艺及匀染性的探讨研究,必将推动羊绒筒子纱染色的规模生产,提高羊绒针织物的生产效率,大大适应市场,从而增加效益。更多还原

【Abstract】 The dyeing for cashmere yarn is becoming more and more important with the variation of market. Yarn dyeing for cashmere knitwear has the characteristics of short period and high efficiency, so it’s applicable to products with small quantity, large variety and ample style.Most of cashmere yarns are hank dyed which has many disadvantages, such as it’s difficult to be batch produced in large quantity of hank dyeing, more differences easily occur between different batches, colored spots easily occur with high consumption and severe damage to the strength of cashmere yarns, furthermore, the hand feeling of such dyed cashmere knitwear is worse, while package dyeing can effectively avoid such defects. So it’s necessary to investigate and discuss the level-dyeing property of cashmere package-dyed yarn because of the small quantity of package-dyed cashmere yarns used for knitwear domestically, the faultiness in dyeing process and the instability of product quality.This project discuss the influences exerted on level-dyeing property of various parameters from different sections, such as dyeing process and dyeing equipment etc, based on the theoretically research and mass production practices in order to find the optimal controlling point and process parameters to improve level-dyeing property and to stabilize the product quality.The physical and chemical properties of cashmere fiber and rationally selection of dye stuff and auxiliary are studied in this paper. The influences during different sections in dyeing process on leveling dyeing property are analyzed and different problems encountered in mass production practices are summarizedThe performances of advanced automatic package dyeing equipment and its matching apparatus are investigated and understood to fine the optimal technical parameters for the equipment so as to achieve the optimization of technical parameters. Research results based on tests and trials show that the density during winding and shape formation of package yarn is the key factors to improve level-dyeing property except for some conventional controlling points such as, dyeing temperature, dyeing duration and Phvalue etc. If the winding density is improperly selected for woolen and worsted yarns, it’s probably the occurrence of color difference between internal layer and external layer of package dyeing yarns. The color difference among different cones is also easy to be found in the same dyeing vessel if there is difference on package shape or package weight among different cones. The rational density parameters are stipulated and effective density consistency controlling method is also summarized in this paper.This project also studied the influence of various process parameters on color difference, color fastness and hand feeling etc. The functions of different auxiliary on level-dyeing property are also explored. A optimal scheme of rationally selected and used parameters from dyeing equipment and dyeing process, and from dye stuff to dyeing auxiliaries are summarized to guarantee the level dyeing property of product to improve the comprehensive wearing performance.The research on level dyeing property of package yarn for cashmere knitwear is deemed to promote the batch production of package dyeing, to improve the production efficiency of cashmere knitwear, to meet the demand of market and increase profits.更多还原