【作者】 缪旭静；

【导师】 余国兴；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2006， 硕士

【摘要】 文胸作为女性最贴体的服装之一,经过百年的发展,健康和舒适已成为其设计的基准。合适的文胸在保护、支撑女性乳房的同时使女性体态挺拔、富有曲线美。因此以女性胸部特征为基准研究文胸设计具有重要的意义。 起步于20世纪80年代的中国内衣业,在文胸设计,版型研究上还远远落后欧、美、日等发达国家。不多的内衣设计人才和版型设计人才已无法满足中国内衣业迅速发展的要求,有关文胸纸样设计理论的研究亦进行的较少。 文胸样板设计的合理性,必须通过真人模特的试穿来检验,该过程需要人力、物力和时间的大量付出,在一定程度上限制了文胸样板设计向高水平发展。以促进文胸版型技术的提高为目标,本课题对文胸原型样板设计优化开展研究,尝试用三维模拟人体模特取代传统真人模特进行文胸样板设计,建立符合实际的文胸样板设计理论。 论文以华东地区青年女性的测体数据为依据,建立女性胸部乳房的数学模型,将乳房数学模型从三维向二维转换,推导出二维纸样的省道量和省道角大小,采用东华原型纸样与理论省道角相结合得到文胸原型纸样。利用3D-CAD系统的模拟试衣功能,将其三维模拟人体模特的身体特征数据设定与国家标准相符,得到虚拟标准人体模特。更多还原

【Abstract】 As the underwear industry of China began from 1980’s, its’ bra style design and patternmaking lag a lot from European counties which are sophisticated at bra design. Many Chinese underwear industry confirmed that the shortness of qualified bra designer and patternmaker low down the development speed of enterprise. Because the human factors are critical in the structural design of bra, the reasonability of bra structural design should be judged by models trying on. Such process requites high cost of human resources,money and time, those that many Chinese companies cannot afford.The purpose of this thesis was to use 3D body model to optimize bra structural design and pattern development.Through studying east-china women’ breasts measurement datum, sets up a three-dimension model of breast, and discuss the relation between 3D-2D transformation and bra structure from the point of Ergonomics.On the basis of prototype pattern, develop a prototype bra pattern as input the theory results of 3D-2D transformation. The structure of prototype bra pattern was modified by virtual stitched and putted on a virtual 3D body model which produced on the standard characteristics parameter of Chinese women, then manufacture a true bra according to the prototype bra pattern. At last a performance evaluation wear of the prototype bra was carried on by real person.This article suggests that the application of virtual design technology may simplify the process of bra design and manufacture. It was the first evaluation study of visualization technology in fashion industry.更多还原