【作者】 屈宏；

【导师】 赵英兰；

【作者基本信息】 吉林大学 ， 中国近现代史， 2004， 硕士

【摘要】 服饰是一种社会符号，它从一个侧面反映了不同历史时期的政治、经济及文化状况。近代中国城市女子服饰的发展变化，体现了随时而迁的特点，由城市女子服饰表现出来的女性社会地位和生活状态，集中体现了社会文明前进的步伐，反映出女子道德、心理的成长变化。近代城市女子服饰的变迁，不仅是一部服饰变迁史，也是一部近代女性发展史，是近代中国社会新陈代谢的缩影。一、西风东渐：城市女子服饰从传统走向现代　 ——洋装的冲击与异化　1840 年鸦片战争，西方殖民者打破了封建帝国的大门，把先进的资本主义文明输入中国。在欧风美雨冲击下，人们的社会生活开始变化，得风气之先者莫过于服饰了。城市女子服饰从道光到光绪中叶，受西方服饰影响，衣领、袖的形制不断地发生变化，构成了近代服饰革新的开端，透露出新文明的气息。20 世纪初，革命运动风起云涌，革命者着装的示范作用与女权运动的兴起，将城市女子服饰变革带入一个女扮男装的时代，女性在改变自己形象的同时也进行着一场内心的革命。新兴的女学生将充满职业特色的学生装推上历史舞台，为服饰的发展注入清新的空气。随着西方各种思潮的涌入，西方服饰因子也更多地走进中国，各种西式服装为女子钟爱。辛亥革命彻底打破了传统服饰“昭名份，辨等威”的封建性，开辟了服饰发展新方向。城市女子服饰也进入一个绚丽多彩的时期。文明新装受到广大女性的青睐，礼帽成为女子服饰的一部分，女子的发式也千变万化的与各样服饰相映衬。这时满族服饰因为清的灭亡而急剧衰落，退到了历史舞台的边缘。但是，伴随着社会开放，城市女子服饰的发展日渐奇异与奢靡，引起了社会风化家的指责，他们倡导简洁朴素的着装，大量出现的女性杂志也引导女子服饰的改良发展。 57<WP=62>二、中西合璧：城市女子服饰从多元走向稳定　 ——旗袍的兴起与流变　20 世纪 20 年代初，新式旗袍在改进传统旗袍和吸收西式服饰文化要素的基础上诞生。20 年代中期旗袍得到普及，成为城市女子普遍的着装。30 年代旗袍走向经典，奠定了它在城市女子服饰领域不可替代的位置。这时的旗袍完美成熟，裁剪工艺由于采取西艺，变得更加适体。肩缝、装袖、垫肩等西方服饰的元素，也被旗袍成功吸纳进来。40 年代是旗袍黄金时代的继续。由于抗日战争的影响，这时旗袍从面料到设计趋于朴素化，总体表现为长度减短，更能表现女性曲线，而暴露程度有所加大，配穿的方式层出不穷。旗袍在发展过程中形成了以上海和北京为中心的两个不同派别。海派旗袍以吸收西艺为特点，追求设计的标新；京派旗袍以传统为主，追求设计的华贵。海派旗袍由于鲜明的时代特征而更为流行。旗袍也成为文人、艺人难以割舍的文化情愫，大量以旗袍为对象的作品出现。旗袍发展中形成的一些元素，如衣裳连属、适体收腰的柔美廓形等沉淀下来，成为中国服饰文化浓重的一笔。三、时代音符：城市女子服饰变迁与政治经济文化的关系　服饰作为社会发展的最直观的舞台，在自身的变化中，映证着中国近代政治生活的变迁，体现了革命洪流的冲击。这种革命不仅是中国社会的一场变革，更是中国女性自身解放的一场革命。社会经济发展直接推动了城市女子服饰发展的多样性。首先，经济的发展为服饰提供了更多的物质资料，其次，经济的发展扩展了城市女性的就业领域，使她们在一定程度上获得经济独立，从而促进了城市女性服饰消费的增长。这反过来又推动了城市女子服饰的发展。服饰作为社会文化的载体，体现了近代中西文化的碰撞交融。城市女子服饰的变革，一方面吸收了西方服饰文化的元素，一方面又传承了本民族的文化特色。近代中西文化的交融，不仅改变了人们的服饰，更使中国 58<WP=63>文化开始转型。四、城市女子服饰变迁的特点分析近代城市女子服饰的变迁呈现出四个显著特点：其一，城市女子服饰的地域性差别。上海是全国城市女子服饰变化的中心，带动和影响着近代城市女子服饰变迁的方向。其二，城市女子服饰的多元化和个性化。女子服饰成为表现女性情趣、衡量女性消费能力的尺度。不同阶层女子的价值取向、审美各异，这必然使服饰呈现出扮演女性不同角色的作用，从而使服饰的发展呈现出多元化和个性化态势。其三，城市女子服饰的时装化。中国封建制度的解体，西方流行服饰文化的影响，女性时尚杂志的宣传，为城市女子服饰的时装化提供了基础，女子服饰由自发流行演变成有意识的传播和引导，具有现代意义的“时装”出现在中国大地。其四，城市女子服饰的开创性和盲目性。近代城市女子服饰发展，在中西结合的基础上，开创了许多具有自己特色的新服饰，成为后来中华民族传统服饰的代表。但是，城市女子服饰的发展由于过分的追求时髦，也表现出一定的盲目性。更多还原

【Abstract】 Adress is a kind of social symbol, it has reflected the political,economic and cultural condition of different historical period from a side.The developing of woman’s dress in modern Chinese city , have embodiedthe characteristic that moved at any time , the dress of the city womanshow the female that comes out social position and live state,concentration has embodied the social step with ongoing civilization ,reflects woman morals , psychological to grow up to change. Thechanging of modern city woman dress, a dress changes history is not only ,is also a modern female development history , is the epitome of modernChinese social metabolism. 1 、A east of west wind guadually: City woman dress has moderntrend from tradition The Opium War of 1840 years, Western colonial has broken the doorof feudal empire,They input advanced capitalist civilization into China.Underthe impacted by European wind and American rain, the social lifeof people begins to change , get late mood not too dress. The dress of citywoman from the Dao Guang to Guang Xu middle period, by westerndress influence, the shape system of collar and sleeve begin to changecontinuously , it has formed the beginning of modern dress innovationand reveal the scent of new civilization. In 20 century earlyer,Revolutionary sport is rising , thedemonstration of revolutionary dressing and the sport of women’s rightspring up , the dress of the city woman begin to transform tape onedisguise as a man times, female also carries out the revolution of a heartwhile changing herself image. Female student will fill with the student ofprofessional characteristic to pack, introduce to historical stage, pour intofresh air for the development of dress. Along with the West various trends 60<WP=65>gush to enter, it is cherished that western dress factor also walks moreinto Chinese, various western-style garments to be woman. Xin Hai revolution have broken traditional dress and opened updevelopment new directionof the dress. The dress of the City woman alsoenters a gorgeous period. “Civilized new dress” get the favour of massesof female.Now fully continent dress because of settle perish and declinerapidly, have returned the edge of historical stage. But it is gradually curious to accompany the social development , thedress of the city woman dress is blamed ty people, that has aroused ofsocial morals attention , they initiate succinct simple dressing, the femalemagazine of plenty of appearances also guide woman dress improvedevelopment. 2、 Chinese and Western join jade: the dress of the City woman isstabilized from multivariate trend Beginning of 20 century 20 decade, new-style cheongsam improvesin traditional cheongsam and the foundation that absorbs western-styledress cultural essential factor. In the middle of 20 decade, cheongsam getspopularity , becomes the dressing of universal city woman. In 30 decade, Cheongsam trend classics, have established the locationthat it cannot replace field in the dress of the city woman. The cheongsambegin to use the west technology ,becomes fiting to body. Shoulder seam ,pack the western dresses such as sleeve and shoulder pad element, alsoinduct by cheongsam success to absorb in. 40 decade is cheongsam gold times continuity. Because of theinfluence of the War of Resistance Against Japan, Cheongsam tends tosimple from fabrics to design, Cheongsam’s length becomes to short , andexpose level increasing , and match the way that worn to emergeendlessly. Cheongsam has formed the two different groups with Shanghai and 61<WP=66>Beijing as center in developing course. Sea-style cheongsam absorbs inwest skill as characteristic, pursue design mark new; Capital-stylecheongsam is tradition mainly , is luxurious as pursue designs. Sea-stylecheongsam is more popular because of bright times feature. Cheongsamalso becomes f更多还原