高档服装辅料——马尾衬产品　标准的制定

【作者】 王红菊；

【导师】 滑钧凯；

【作者基本信息】 天津工业大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2004， 硕士

【摘要】 中国加入世贸组织以来，企业正一步步由国内市场向国际市场转换，最终在国际市场环境下生存发展。而当今的国际经济竞争正由资本竞争向技术竞争转变，其核心已逐步演变为专利之争和标准之争。产品标准是商品交易的依据，是公平竞争的基础，是国家进行产品质量监督的保证。 马尾衬布是一种高档服装辅料，其性能特点为经软纬挺反弹性大，是高档西服及女士风衣不可或缺的重要辅料。对于马尾衬布的质量到目前为止尚无统一的考查标准。这一现状不仅不利于马尾衬布的生产和销售，而且在国际竞争日趋激烈的今天，对于马尾衬布立足国际市场也是一个障碍。另外马尾衬布产品标准的制定也是我国整个纺织行业标准化进程中必需的一个环节，因此马尾衬布产品标准的制定工作具有重大意义。本文系统考查了马尾衬布的各项性能指标，旨在建立一套理想的马尾衬布产品标准。 本文中主要对马尾衬的弹挺性能和滑脱性能进行了系统研究。目前对于马尾衬布的弹挺性能和滑脱性两项技术指标还没有适用的测试方法，因此本文中通过大量试验对这两项技术指标的测试方法进行了探讨。在试验的基础上对测试方法进行了确定，并自行设计了试验装置。同时对所研究的瓣状挂重法测马尾衬的弹挺性进行了不确定度评估，结果证明其稳定性很高；对针排拉伸法测试结果进行了假设检验，结果证明其对马尾衬的滑脱性测试效果显著。通过大量的试验证明了用瓣状挂重法测马尾衬的弹挺性及用针排拉伸法测定马尾衬的滑脱性两种测试方法有效可行。 本文还对马尾衬布的其它各项主要性能指标做了全面的研究，重点分析了马尾衬布的透气性、吸湿透湿性、干洗尺寸变化、熨烫尺寸变化、汽蒸尺寸变化、缩水率等性能。对于上述指标的测试，本产品标准中参照现有国家标准中的有关规定对马尾衬布进行了测试，并兼顾主要企业的技术水平，通过合理分析确定产品标准中的相应限定指标。 为了跟紧国际发展潮流，在马尾衬布的产品标准中我们还对有关的生态指标进行了考查限定。其中主要对马尾衬布的游离甲醛含量进行了分析。参考相应的国家标准进行测定。使整个行业标准具有很强的市场适应能力。更多还原

【Abstract】 With China’s acceding to the WTO , enterprises are transforming the market from a domestic one to the international one . They are compelled to struggle for existence under the international market . Nowadays the international economy competition is changing from competition of capital to the competition of technique whose kernel is evolving into competition of standard . The product standard is the basis of commodity circulation , is the foundation of fair competition , is the assurance of state’s supervision with regard to quality of products .Hanser is the subsidiary material using in superior quality clothing , it is of crucial importance to top grade suits . But currently there is no unified product standard to inspect its quality . This phenomenon is unfavourable to the manufacture and marketing of hanser . Also it is a obstacle for hanser to get into the international market under the economy environment of intense competition . Besides , the formulation of the standard of hanser is a essential segment of the textile industry standardization . In this paper we lay down a set of ideal hanser standard based on examining all the various performances quota .In this paper we mainly study the shape retention and sliding of hanser . Presently there is no suitable test method of these two property . So we inquire into the testing methods of them through a large number of experiments in this paper . On the basis of trials we have a research of the test devices . We alsoanalyse the repetition and stabability of the two methods . The result prove that these two methods are efficatious .Other properties of hanser studied in this article are as follows : breathability , moisture permeability , ironing shrinkage , dry-cleaning shrinkage , steaming shrinkage , washing shrinkage etc . As for all these targets we consulting the corresponding national standard to choose out the employed methods .In order to follow the international tendency , we have a consideration of ecological aspect of the standard , After the analysis of the manufacture technology of hanser we hold that the relative sector is resin finishing . So we specially exminine the consistent of free formaldehyde . As for the test of this target we consult and follow GB/T 2912.1-1998 to execute . Its limitation is 300mg/kg according to the standard Okeo-Tex . Also it makes the whole industry standard a international one .Taking all the technical targets and ecology target into consideration , we finally lay down a set of industry standard of hanser with a quite good marketing adaptability . We summarize the two testing methods made in this paper as the method standard for the use of reference .更多还原