女装圆度体型系列基本纸样技术研究

【作者】 董雪丹；

【导师】 刘瑞璞； 郑瑞平；

【作者基本信息】 天津工业大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2003， 硕士

【摘要】 随着目前服装业“以人为本”的设计理念日益盛行，服装纸样设计也应当迎合消费者的个性需要。本课题主要研究在服装工业生产中细化纸样制作，为不同体型的消费者提供相应纸样的技术。这项技术可以提高工业纸样与人体的符合度，进而提高服装产品的内在质量，使其更适合消费者的体型需要，将“以人为本”的设计思想付诸实践。 本课题的技术路线是：从纸样设计入手，以国家服装号型标准作为实际数据来源，以人体解剖理论作为理论依据，寻找人体体型变化规律，总结出具有典型代表性的圆度体型系列——扁体型、圆体型及介于两者之间的中间体型。然后参考国内外相关基本纸样资料进行分析，为这三种体型分别设计出相应的基本纸样，构成一个体型系列。在工业生产中，可以利用这一体型系列基本纸样，设计出系列服装纸样，适应不同体型人群的需要。有了体型系列基本纸样的技术支持，服装设计师可以设计适合不同体型的服装款式、风格。这一体型系列基本纸样理论改变了原来工业生产中单一体型的制板方式，为不同体型人群提供了“个性化”的服务。同时，这一理论适合工业化大规模生产，具有广阔的发展前途。 按照不同体型制作纸样是服装个性化产品开发的趋势所在，体型系列基本纸样技术为这一趋势在工业生产中的实现提供了理论和技术支持。同时，这项技术的应用使消费者能够买到适合自身体型的服装，提高了人们的着装质量。此外，体型系列基本纸样技术不仅发展和完善了我国纸样设计理论，而且与国外系列纸样技术研究相接轨，是纸样理论发展的重要内容。这一技术在生产中的应用提高了服装产品的内在质量，提升服装品牌的内涵，增长企业竞争力，为实现我国服装产业从粗放式经营向集约式经营转变作了技术性的探索。更多还原

【Abstract】 Along with the popularity of the design principle of " personality" in current clothing industry, clothing pattern design should also cater to the consumer’s characteristic demand.This subject mainly researches the subdivision of the pattern design procedure in the clothing manufacture, provides patterns for different types of figure of the consumer .This technique can increase the matching degree of industry pattern and human body, and increase the inside quantity of the clothing product,it can cater to the consumer’s personal figure demand, carry out the idea of personality".Technique route of the subject is: Commences from the pattern design,gets the actual data from the state’s size and model standard of clothing ,gets the theoretical foundation from the theory of human anatomy, and looks for the changing regulation of human figure, then sums up the representative circle degree figure series- flat figure, circular figure and figure type lies in the middle of the two.Then consults the related basic pattern data from home and abroad and analyse, designs slopers for these three types of figure respectively, constitute a type series.In the industrial manufacture, we can make use of the sloper series , and design the series clothing patterns to meet the demand of different types of figure .Use this series slopers as technique support,designers can make out different styles and manners for different figures.The series sloper theory would change the one figure pattern making method in clothing industry produce nowaday, and provides the " personality " service for different type of figures .At the same time, this theory could promote large-scale production of industrialization , it will have a good prospect.Making pattern according to different types of figure is a trend in the "personal" product exploitation in the clothing industry, this figure sloper series provide theoretical and technical support to meet this tendency.Atthe same time, the application of this technique make consumer choose suitable type of clothing for her own figure type, and promote the dressing quality of people.In addition, the figure series sloper technique not only perfect our country pattern design theories, but also connect with the research of series pattern technique abroad , and it is an important part of the development of pattern making theories.The application of this technique in the manufacture could increase the inside quantity of the clothing product, and promote the inside strain of the clothing brand, increase the business enterprise competition ability, It makes a technical research to achieve the escalation of our clothing industry from coarse management to fine management.更多还原