民族服装服饰文化及其图案纹样设计的研究

【作者】 宋科新；

【导师】 张鸿志；

【作者基本信息】 天津工业大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2004， 硕士

【摘要】 本课题致力于中国历代及民族服装服饰文化及其图案纹样设计的研究、服饰图案纹样的现代设计技术及现代工艺方法的研究，从各个不同的角度解读服饰文化现象。中国服饰如同中国文化，是各民族互相渗透及相互影响而产生的。匠心独运的瑰丽造型、丰富多样的个性化款式、浓郁的色彩搭配、独具文化内涵的民族服饰图案纹样、古老精湛的各种织、绣、染、缝工艺，颇具民族特色的服装配饰等这些构成了中国民族服饰博大精深的服饰文化。这也是我们进行服装创意、设计、制作、营销所要首先研究的。只有发掘中华民族服饰文化的底蕴，把握我们民族服饰的特色，融汇世界服饰之长，才能使我国的服装设计及服饰产品走向世界。 中国古代服饰的装饰纹样上，多采用动物、植物和几何纹样。图案的表现方式，在商周以前的图案，简炼、概括，抽象；周朝以后至唐宋时期，图案日趋工整，上下均衡、左右对称，纹样布局严密。明清时期，注重于写实手法，各种动物、植物细腻、逼真，组织繁缛精细等，铨释了各历史时期服装服饰的不同特点。从而提出如何传承与弘扬这一“中华瑰宝”的文化遗产，使之与当代CAD／CAM技术相结合，以达到弘扬民族服饰文化、发展现代科学技术的目的。 本文通过对我国民族服装款式特点、民族服装的配饰、民族服装的色彩、民族服装的图案纹样设计及民族服装服饰的文化内涵的介绍，从民族的角度论述传统图案纹样的设计方法及实现的手段。 介绍了传统图案的变形处理、色彩处理、分解组合、传统图案的意境与现代设计结合等方法，主张将传统图案按照新的构思，结合现代图案设计方法重新组合，创造出具有新的内涵与形式的现代图案。阐明研究服饰文化，其意义在于从中找出一种民族精神，同时不断融合新文化，在服装设计中不断提炼并应用民族服饰中有代表性的元素，应把服饰文化的基础元素灵活应用于服装设计及生产中。 图案设计在发展民族服饰文化及产品中具有极其重要的意义，然而传统的图案设计与加工手段又成了发展民族服饰文化及产品的瓶颈。主张在开发图案电脑辅助设计的基础上，开发彩色数码喷射印花新技术，随着智能科技、信息技术逐渐融入到服装生产中，服饰图案CAD／CAM技术正以一种全新的面貌给服装行业带来了勃勃生机，彩色数码喷射技术必将有着广阔发展前景。更多还原

【Abstract】 This paper deals with the study of all Chinese previous national dress culture and the designed pattern of it, as well as the modern design craft method. Revealing the cultural phenomena of dress from the historic and ethnic view lays a foundation of adopting to the design making the past serve the present and making the foreign serve the native. Chinese dress just like our culture is the outcome of national osmosis and affect . Ingenious magnificent shaping ,various characteristic pattern ,rich colorful arrange ,extra cultural connotation in the national dress design, ancient consummate various weave, embroider ,dye and stitch ,ethnic peculiar ornament and so on, all these form the Chinese broad and profound dress culture .This is also our first step to study the creative idea ,design, process , and sell .Our dress design and the product can be welcomed by the world and they will comprehend our broad and profound dress culture only if we can find the cultural potentiality ,hold the peculiarity and melt all merits of world dress .This paper introduces the dress development of different time and the development of the design. Chinese ancient dress veins adopt the animal ,plant and geometry design .The design express goes through stages from abstraction and norm to realistic writing. Before the Shang and Zhou Dynasty ,the design looks terse ,general and intense abstraction .From Zhou Dynasty to Tang and Song Dynasty ,it tends to be neat, harmonious and balanced .During the Ming and Qing Dynasty ,it puts emphasis on the animal and plants look lifelike ,organize more delicate and else ,and demonstrates the different character of dress of different time ,and their connotation and demonstrates traditional developing laws of the pattern and method in historic aspect ,and demonstrates traditional design method and the way to come true in historic aspect by the introduce of our national dress character .ornaments ,color ,pattern design and cultural connotation. It introduces method of traditional design, which expounds to expand ethnic dress culture and to develop modem science technology ,only if it makes the art and technology together .This paper introduces the method of dealing with out of shape, color , decompose and compose , joint of traditional idea and modern design ,and advocate to recompose thetraditional design with the joint of new idea and modern traditional design method to create a kind of modern design with new connotation and form. It expounds that the purpose to study the dress culture lies on finding a kind of ethnic spirit ,melting new culture, abstracting and constantly using representative elements from the design.The design plays a very important role in the development of ethnic dress and product ,however ,the traditional design and making method becomes the bottleneck of developing national dress design. It stands for developing a new technology named colorful digital spray printing with the help of the computer being the basis .With the intellectual technology and information technology gradually melting into the dress producing ,the CAD/CAM technology is bringing vitality to dress field with a new face and the colorful digital spray technology will also has a good prospect.更多还原