【作者】 胡洁；

【导师】 俞建勇；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织材料和纺织品设计， 2004， 硕士

【摘要】 本文主要研究了纱线捻度、混纺比、纺纱方法和细度对大豆蛋白纤维／棉混纺纱线的条干、毛羽和强伸性能的影响，及混纺比和纺纱方法对织物的服用性能的影响。 诞生于本世纪初的大豆蛋白纤维，是迄今为止唯一由我国自主开发，具有完全知识产权的纤维材料。大豆蛋白纤维吸湿、透气性好，穿着舒适。纤维柔韧、蓬松，比重轻，具有羊绒般外观和手感。纤维光泽柔和，具有桑蚕丝的天然光泽和悬重感。目前，我们已经对该纤维及织物的性能有了一些基本了解，但仍需要系统进行大豆蛋白纤维及其纱线和织物的性能的研究。 本文测试了大豆蛋白纤维／棉混纺纱线的条干、毛羽和强伸性能。通过比较和分析，研究捻度、混纺比、纺纱方法、细度对大豆蛋白纤维／棉混纺纱线性能的影响。结果表明：(1)条干：捻度、细度和纺纱方法相同时，混纺纱条干随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加先改善而后恶化；总体上，Sirospun纱线的条干优于相同捻度、细度和混纺比的环锭纺纱线；32支混纺纱的条干优于相同捻系数、混纺比和纺纱方法的45支纱线。(2)毛羽：捻度、细度和纺纱方法相同时，混纺纱的毛羽随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增大而逐渐增多；Siropun大豆蛋白纤维／棉混纺纱的毛羽少于相同捻度、细度和混纺比环锭混纺纱；32支大豆蛋白纤维／棉混纺纱的毛羽多于相同捻系数、混纺比和纺纱方法45支混纺纱。(3)强伸性能：大豆蛋白纤维／棉混纺纱断裂强度随着捻系数的增加先增加后减小；纱线的临界捻系数大体上随着大豆纤维含量的增加而降低，32支纱线的临界捻系数大于相同捻系数、混纺比和纺纱方法的45支纱线，环锭纱临界捻系数大于相同捻系数、混纺比和支数的Sirospun纺纱。随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增多，45支环锭大豆蛋白纤维／棉混纺纱的断裂强力逐渐降低，其它系列纱线的断裂强力先降低后增大。捻度和混纺比相同条件下，32支混纺纱在大豆蛋白纤维含量在中、低比例时，环锭纱断裂强度大于Sirospun纱，高比例时，环锭纱断裂强度小于Sirospun东华大学研究生论文摘要纱;45支sirospun纱的断裂强度大于环锭纱。相同捻系数和混纺比的条件下，环锭混纺纱，32支纱线断裂强度大于45支;Sirospun混纺纱，45支纱线断裂强度大于32支。 对不同混纺比和纱线结构织物的悬垂性、抗皱回复性和抗起毛起球性进行了测试。通过分析，建立混纺比与织物各性能之间的回归方程。结果表明:基本上，织物的悬垂系数随着大豆纤维含量的增加而逐渐增大;当大豆蛋白纤维的含量在中、低比例时，环锭织物的悬垂系数要大于相同混纺比的Sirospun织物，大豆蛋白纤维的含量在高比例时，sirospun织物的悬垂系数大于相同混纺比的环锭织物。环锭织物的折皱回复角随着大豆纤维含量的增加先增大后减小，而Sirospun织物恰恰相反;大豆蛋白纤维含量在中、低比例时，环锭织物的折皱回复性优于相同混纺比的sirospun织物;高比例时，Sirospun织物的折皱回复性优于相同混纺比的环锭织物。环锭织物的抗起毛起球性能随着大豆纤维含量的增加先得到提高然后逐渐降低，sirospun织物的抗起毛起球性能规律性不太明显，总体上，低比例环锭大豆蛋白纤维织物的抗起毛起球性能优于高比例织物;Sirospun织物的抗起毛起球性能略好于相同混纺比环锭织物。 用KES检测系统测试各织物的拉伸、弯曲、剪切、压缩和表面性能性能，经过分析得到结论:(l)混纺比的影响。除大豆蛋白纤维含量超过65%的环锭织物的拉伸线性度随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增多而逐渐降低外，其它织物的拉伸线性度随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加而增大。环锭混纺织物在大豆蛋白纤维含量为20%到80%之间时，弯曲刚度随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加而逐渐增大;Sirospun混纺织物的弯曲刚度随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加而逐渐增大。大豆蛋白纤维为低比例时，环锭织物的剪切刚度随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加略有降低，中间比例时，环锭织物的剪切刚度变化比较平缓，大豆蛋白纤维含量较高时，织物的剪切刚度下降较明显;sirospun织物的剪切刚度随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加先缓慢增大后减小。中、低比例大豆蛋白纤维织物比高比例大豆蛋白纤维织物更蓬松、柔软。纯棉织物的东华大学研究生论文摘要平均摩擦系数较小，当大豆蛋白纤维含量大于20%时，随着大豆蛋白纤维含量的增加，织物的平均摩擦系数先降低，达到最小值后，再逐渐增大。(2)纺纱方法的影响。大豆蛋白纤维含量在中、低比例时，环锭织物的拉伸线性度和弯曲刚度均大于相同混纺比的Sirospun织物;大豆蛋白纤维含量在高比例时，环锭织物小于相同混纺比的Sirospun织物。环锭织物的剪切刚度大于相同混纺比的sirospun织物，压缩性能与sirospun织物接近。大豆蛋白纤维含量在中、低比例时，相同混纺比的Sirospun织物的平均摩擦系数大于环锭织物;当大豆蛋白纤维含量在高比例时，环锭织物大于Sirospun织物。 用KES测得的16项风格指标，加之织物平方米重量共14个力学指标和2个物理指标作为影响各织物风格的主要因子。利用灰关联度值表征并比较不同混纺比和纺?更多还原

【Abstract】 In this dissertation we studied the influence of yarn twist, blending ratio, yarn count and yarn construction to the properties of soybean /cotton blended yarn such as evenness and tensile property and the effect of blending ratio and yarn construction on wearing characteristics of soybean /cotton blended fabric.The soybean protein fiber, born in the 21st century, is the only chemical fiber developed by Chinese researchers by far. It has many fine performances such as excellent moisture vapor transmission, comfortability, lofty, bulk, light specific density and high heat retention. Its appearance and handle is as good as cashmere while its subdued luster and drape is as beautiful as silk. Though we have known some of its properties, we still need to study the performance and structure of the textile production of soybean protein fiber systematiclly. Firstly, we tested the evenness, hairiness, and tensile property of soybean /cotton blended yarn of different twist, blending ratio, count and spinning system. Through comparing and analysis, we got the results as following. (1) Evenness. The evenness of soybean /cotton blended yarn with same twist, count and yarn construction increased initially and then decreased with the increasing percentage of soybean protein fiber; Generally speaking, the evenness of Sirospun yarn was better than that of ring yarn with same twist, count and blending ratio; 32 English count yarn was better than 45 English count yarn with same twist factor, blending ratio and spinning system. (2) Hairiness. The hairiness of soybean /cotton blended yarn with same twist, count and yarn construction increased gradually with the increasing percentage of soybean protein fiber; the evenness of Sirospun yarn was better than that of ring yarn with same twist, count and blending ratio; 32 English count yarn was worse than 45English count yarn with same twist factor, blending ratio and spinning system. (3) With the increasing percentage of soybean protein fiber, the tensile strength of soybean /cotton blended yarn with same twist, count and yarn construction rose initially and then fell, and its critical twist factor declined. The critical twist factor of low count yarn was higher than that of high count yarn with same twist factor, blending ratio and spinning system; While for same twist factor, blending ratio and count blend yarn, the critical twist factor of ring spun yarn was higher than that of Sirospun yarn. The higher the count was, the bigger the difference was. The tensile strength of soybean /cotton blended yarn improved initially and then declined with the increasing percentage of soybean protein fiber, with the exception that the tensile strength of the 45 count blended yarn decreased all long, when the percentage of soybean protein fiber was low and middle, for 32 count blend yarn under the same twist and blending ratio, the tensile strength of ring spun yarn was higher than that of Sirospun yarn. But when the percentage of soybean protein fiber became high, ring spun yarn was lower than Sirospun yarn; for 45 count blend yarn, Sirospun yarn was higher than ring spun yarn. Under the same twist factor and blending ratio, the tensile strength of 32 count ring spun yarn n was higher than that of 45 count ring spun yarn, while for 45 and 32 count Sirospun yarn, the result was opposite.The properties of soybean/cotton blended fabric, including the drapability, credibility and pilling were measured. The influence of blending ratio and yarn spinning system to the blended fabric were studied and the conclusion wad reached: Basically, with the increase of the proportion of the soybean protein fiber, the drape coefficient would increase; the drape coefficient of ring spun fabric was higher the that of Sirospun fabric with the same blending ratio as the proportion of the soybean protein fiber was low and middle, and Sirospun fabric was higher than ring spun fabric asthe proportion of the soybean fiber was high. With the increase of the proportion of soybean protein fiber, the credibil更多还原