棉织物生物化学法超柔软整理的研究

【作者】 王海英；

【导师】 吴赞敏；

【作者基本信息】 天津工业大学 ， 纺织化学与染整工程， 2002， 硕士

【摘要】 在本课题中，主要对薄型棉织物柔软性(舒适性)方面的整理进行了研究和探讨，利用生物化学法——纤维素酶整理及化学柔软剂整理相结合的方法对棉织物进行超柔软整理，提高棉织物的手感，改善织物的舒适性。现有的研究发现，纤维素酶整理和化学柔软剂整理这两种整理方法都各自存在不同的弊端，但如果把这二者结合起来，就可以弥补彼此的不足之处——纤维素酶形成的永久性的柔软效果，可以弥补柔软剂不耐洗的缺点，而柔软剂在进一步增加柔软效果的基础上，还可以弥补由于纤维素酶水解造成的纤维损伤，从而降低整理后的织物的强度损失。 本次实验选用的丹麦诺维信公司的纤维素酶Cellusoft L对棉织物进行整理，在实验中首先对该种纤维素酶的使用条件进行了筛选，发现在50℃，pH=5.0左右，浴比为1:20的条件下，使用3％(owf)的纤维素酶处理织物50min后能取得最佳的整理效果。在确定了该种酶的最佳使用条件下，又考查了其它因素对酶的影响：其一，是织物上预先存在的染料。我们选用三种染料——直接、活性、还原染料，采用两种不同流程的整理方法：织物先染色再用纤维素酶整理及织物用纤维素酶整理后再染色，前者用来考查染料对纤维素酶活性的影响，后者用来考查酶整理对织物染色性能的影响。其二，是后整理过程中不可避免的各种助剂(表面活性剂)。实验中我们采用了三种类型的表面活性剂——阳离子型、阴离子型及非离子型，在每种类型中又选取了若干品种与纤维素酶同浴对织物进行整理，以织物的失重率来衡量每种表面活性剂对酶活性的影响。我们对复配后的表面活性剂对酶活性的影响也进行了研究。实验中还发现纤维素酶整理后织物的吸水、散湿能力均得到提高，我们对此也进行了进一步的实验研究。 利用前面的实验基础，我们对白布及染色布都采用两种不同整理工艺进行超柔软整理，研究整理后的织物的各项性能，并由此确定最佳的超柔软整理工艺。 织物经过整理后，手感是一项评价和衡量产品档次的重要指标，但如何对手感进行评价是一个至今尚未解决的问题。为避免传统手感评价中一些主观因素(如人的修养、爱好、情绪)的影响，我们在本课题中采用一种较客观的评定方法，即用模糊数学的方法对整理后织物的手感进行评价。在实验中发现，如果变换模型中的评价指标，即选取反映织物各种舒适性能的参数来替代反映手感的参数，该模型可 天津工业大学2000级硕士论文以应用于织物舒适性的评价。更多还原

【Abstract】 In this subject, we mainly studied and discussed the method on cotton fabric’s softness (comfort) finishing. We used biotic--chemical method, a super soft method which combines cellulase treatment with chemical softener finishing on cotton fabric. Through this means, we could improve cotton fabric’s hand and comfort. Both of these two methods has advantage and disadvantage. If these two methods are combined together, they could make up each other-cellulase finishing could form a permanent softness and softener finishing could not only improve soft impression further but also reduce the strength loss made by cellulase’s hydrolysis.In this experiment, we used Cellusoft L, which is a kind of cellulase made by Novozymes company, in cotton fabric’s finishing. Finally, we found that we could obtain optimal effect at this condition: T =50, pH =5.0, bath ratio=l:20, enzyme =3%(owf), t =50min. Under this optimal condition of enzyme, we studied other factors which influence on enzyme: one factor was dyes existed previous. We selected three kinds dyes -direct, reactive, vat, and adopted two finishing methods: dyed first and then treated with cellulase, treated with cellulase first and then dyed. The former was used to find the effect on cellulase by the dyes, the later to find the influence on fabric’s dyeability made by the cellulase treatment. The second factor was surfactant which could not be avoided in the fabric’s finishing. We also selected three kinds of auxiliaries -anion, cation, nonionic surfactants. From each kind, we also selected several products which treated fabric with enzyme together and at last, we used weight loss rate to measure the influence on the enzyme made by the surfactants. We also studied the influence on enzyme’s activity made by built-up product.In this experiment, we also found that the fabric’s capability of absorbing volatilizing water treated by cellulase had been improved.We used different super soft finishing methods on the white and dyed fabric, studied the capability of the treated fabric and determined the best super soft process.After the fabric was finished, its hand was one important index evaluated and measured the fabric’s quality, but how to evaluate the fabric’s hand is a problem which hasnot been resolved. Here we would adopt a objective method to avoid those subjective influences, that was using fuzzing mathematics to evaluate the fabric’s level. If we change the indexes into those characters which reflected fabric’s comfortable capability, this model could also be used to evaluate the fabric’s comfortable capability.更多还原