【作者】 丁艳芳；

【导师】 陆锡兴；

【作者基本信息】 南昌大学 ， 汉语言文字学， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 名物训诂学是在传统训诂学的基础上,结合考古学、历史学等知识,对历史中出现的名物进行训释。它主要针对名物出现的历史背景、渊源进行探索,并考察其形制、用途及演变过程,进而加以解释、分析。《金瓶梅词话》是明代后期的一部长篇世情小说,讲述了明后期社会各阶层的世情百态。该书约成书于嘉靖晚期至万历年问,书中有着大量的服饰描写,生动细致地反映了明代后期的社会服饰风貌,其中有关衣着名目、首饰名目、衣料名目,为明代服饰研究提供了非常真实宝贵的资料。据此,本文以《金瓶梅词话》中的服饰词汇为研究对象,从名物训诂学的角度出发,并结合相关文献资料,对照出土实物,在已有研究成果的基础上,对该书中出现的服饰词汇进行全面的整理、分析,并考察其形制、用途,以求最大限度还原明代后期的社会服饰风貌。由于该书中服饰词汇名目繁多,本文先对其进行归类、分析,主要采取横向对比为主并结合纵向对比的方法,从首饰、巾帽、衣服、鞋袜四大类进行论述；首饰部分着重论述鬏髻的发展演变,及各式簪子、头箍等的插戴方式,巾帽方面主要讨论书中出现较多的几种样式,并对其进行分析、比较；衣类方面,女服以衫、袄、裙为主,男服以各式袍服为主；鞋类方面,男鞋主要依据质地分类,女鞋则比较多样,不同的鞋头、鞋跟及功用均有不同名称。更多还原

【Abstract】 Combined with archaeology, history and other knowledge, The Chinese exegetics is a discipline to explain the substance in history basing on the traditional exegetics. The discipline is mainly research on the historical background and origins of the substance, whose shape, use and evolution is also studied in addition."The Golden Lotus" is a lengthy worldly novel describing life of all social class in late Ming Dynasty. The book was completed in period from the late Jiajing to Wanli,and it had a large amounts of description for garment, vividly depicting the clothing style of the late Ming society in detail.The description about clothes, jewelry and clothing in that book also provides valuable information for the study of the Ming Dynasty costumes.Accordingly, this Dissertation is researching on the clothing vocabulary in the "The Golden Lotus" from the point of the Chinese exegetics.Based on existing research results and literature data,we analyse the clothing vocabularies in the book. In order to comprehensively restore clothing style in the late Ming Dynasty, shape and usage of those vocabularies are also examined. Considering the numerous clothing vocabulary in the book, this article classifies those words firstly, then analyzes the feature of the jewelry, towel hat, clothes, shoes and socks at different time from the prospective of lateral comparison and longitudinal comparison.更多还原