【作者】 周洁雅；

【导师】 金子敏；

【作者基本信息】 浙江理工大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 近年来，随着人民生活水平的不断提高及便捷舒适、环保时尚等理念的大力推广，人们对服装简便化、功能化的要求也越来越高。因此开发具有穿着合体感好，缝制加工工序简单，原料浪费少，外观效果好的纺织服装产品，将有着非常良好的市场前景。本课题机织半成型提花女裙织物的裙腰部位具有优良的弹力收缩性能，裙身部位无弹性，可使穿带者保持良好的轻盈合体感，避免了穿着时的束缚压迫感。同时，此类女裙织物在下机后裙腰裙身一次织造成型且风格各异，只需将两侧接缝部位直接缝合即成一件完整的女裙，避免了大量裁剪过程的原料浪费。机织半成型提花女裙的裙腰因要求较高的弹性收缩与舒适合体感，因此裙腰部位需进行合理的经纬纱线原料配置与组织结构设计，经线选用伸展性较好的锦纶丝，纬线采用三组，甲纬为涤纶丝，乙纬为人造棉，丙纬为弹性优良的氨纶包覆纱，组织结构为双层接结或双层空心袋。同时，高弹性女裙裙腰各性能的优劣，如弹性回复性、压力舒适性、刚柔性及透气性等，与裙腰的纬纱排列比、组织结构与弹力氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长等因素有关。为探究高弹性裙腰各因素水平对其性能的影响，也为半成型女裙产品的开发提供一定的理论依据，本文建立了高弹性女裙裙腰试样性能研究的正交试验方案，正交试验中设立了三个因素：因素A为纬纱排列比，水平有三个，分别包括2∶1∶1，4∶3∶1，6∶5∶1；因素B为组织结构，水平有两个，分别为双层接结组织与双层空心袋组织；因素C为纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长，水平有三个，分别为18、28、38。然后，根据各因素水平选用L9（34）正交分析表，分析试样各因素水平对裙腰织物的弹性回复性、压力舒适性、刚柔性及透气性的影响，并根据正交极差分析及最优化组合得出：试样弹性回复性能受因素A纬纱排列比的影响最大，因素B组织结构的影响次之，因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长对试样弹性回复率的影响最小；试样压力舒适性能与因素A纬纱排列比、因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长的关联非常大，而因素B组织结构对试样压力舒适性的影响几乎可以不考虑；试样透气性受因素A纬纱排列比的影响较大，因素C氨纶包覆纱背衬浮长的影响次之，因素B组织结构对裙腰试样透气性的影响相对较小；试样刚柔性，三个因素的极差值R非常接近，可以说因素A纬纱排列比、因素B组织结构、因素C氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长对其刚柔性的影响并不大。在综合分析了女裙裙腰试样弹性回复性、压力舒适性、透气性与刚柔性等性能的优化组合基础上，设计开发了两款不同工艺的机织半成型提花女裙产品：①机织半成型裙腰暗花效应提花女裙织物，裙腰甲、乙、丙三组纬纱排列比为4∶3∶1，裙身甲乙两组纬线排列比为1∶1，纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长为28，裙腰与裙身的组织结构均采用双层空心袋组织，裙腰花部采用三角形图案，配以巧妙的图案变化，使其具有独特的暗花效应，同时裙腰与裙身的过渡部位亦用三角形图案，裙腰上下呼应，增加了立体层次感。裙身部位则使用左右对称的单独图案，裙腰与裙身的衔接自然流畅，浑然一体。该女裙具有良好弹性收缩性能，且手感柔软，穿着舒适合体。②机织半成型裙身抛道提花女裙织物，裙腰甲、乙、丙三组纬纱排列比为4∶3∶1，裙身甲乙两组纬纱排列比为1∶1且部分纬纱抛道，纬线氨纶包覆纱的背衬浮长为28，裙腰采用双层接结组织，裙身采用双层空心袋组织，裙腰与裙身过渡部位采用小三角形几何图案，裙身部位采用类似于江南水乡的纹样，因部分纬纱的抛道，使得该女裙具有如流水一般的动态美感，风格轻盈独特、层次突出。更多还原

【Abstract】 In recent years, with the improvement of people’s living standard and the promoting ofconcepts, such as convenience, comfort and environmental protection, people have more andmore requirement on clothing’s function. So develop textile and clothing products which havegood comfortable sensation and simple sewing processing process and less raw material wasteand good exterior effect, would have a very good market prospect.In this topic, the semi-molding jacquard skirt waist had an excellent elasticity shrinkageperformance, while skirt body parts without elastic that can make the wearer take good lightsomeand fit feeling, and avoid the feeling of enchained and oppressive. At the same time, this kind ofskirt could once shaped with different style after leave the machine. It only needed to sew up thetwo juncture sides to get a complete female skirt. It could avoid a lot of material wasting in theprocess of cutting.The semi-molding jacquard skirt waist required for high elasticity shrink and comfortablefit feeling, so the skirt waist needed a reasonable configuration of warp and weft materials andorganization structure design. Warp chose nylon yarn which has good stretching, and weft usedthree groups in which weft A was polyester yarn and weft B was staple rayon and weft C wascovered spandex yarn having good elasticity. Weave structure was double take or double hollowbag. At the same time, each performance of high elastic female skirt waist such as elasticresilience, pressure comfort, flexibility and breathability and so on, was related to the factorssuch as skirt waist’s wefts arrangement, organization structure and stretch covered spandex yarnbacking floating length.For studying each factor of the high elastic female skirt waist affected on the performance,and providing certain theoretical basis to the development of semi-molding jacquard skirt, thispaper established an orthogonal test plan on properties of the samples of high elastic female skirtwaist. The orthogonal experiment has established three factors. Actor A stands for weftsarrangement which has three levels including2:1:1,4:3:1and6:5:1. Factor B stands fororganization structure which has two levels including double take organization and doublehollow bag organization. Factor C stands for covered spandex yarn backing floating length,which has three levels including18,28and38. Then, according to orthogonal analysis form L9 (34), analyzing the factors to skirt waist level of elastic fabric resilience, pressure comfort,flexibility and the effect of breathability, and based on orthogonal analysis and optimum levelcombination that: sample’s elastic recovery performance influenced by factor A weftarrangement is the biggest, affected by factor B weave structure’s is the next, factor C coveredspandex yarn backing floating length’s influence is the minimum; Sample’s pressure comfort hasgreat association with factor A weft arrangement and factor C covered spandex yarn backingfloating length, and the influences of factor B weave structure could be almost no consideration;Sample’s breathability influenced by factor A weft arrangement is the biggest, factor C coveredspandex yarn backing floating length’s influence is the second, and factor B weave structure’sinfluence is relatively minor; Sample’s flexibility, the poor value R of the three factors are veryclose, can deemed the influence of three factors, weft arrangement, weave structure, coveredspandex yarn backing floating length, is not big.In the comprehensive analysis of female skirt waist samples’ elastic resilience, pressurecomfort, breathability and flexibility, designed and developed two different style wovensemi-molding jacquard female skirt products:(1) woven semi-molding jacquard female skirtfabric with the dark flower effect of skirt waist: skirt waist a, b, and c three groups’ weftarrangement for4:3:1, skirt body a and b two groups’ arranged for1:1, the covered spandex yarnbacking floating length for28, skirt waist and skirt body’s weave to adopt tabby hollow bagweave, the transition parts of skirt waist and skirt body adopt triangular pattern, skirt body partsused similar on the foreign castle symmetry of single grain appearance, this female skirt hasgood elasticity shrinkage performance, and soft feel, comfortable fit.(2)woven semi-moldingjacquard female skirt fabric with skirt body thrown way: skirt waist a, b, and c three groups’ weftarrangement for4:3:1, skirt body a and b two groups’ weft arrangement ratio for1:1and part ofwefts casting way, the covered spandex yarn backing floating length for28, skirt waist pick theplain stitching weave, skirt body use the plain hollow bag weave, the transition part of skirt waistand skirt body adopt small triangular geometry pattern, skirt body adopt a pattern similarly theYangtze river delta, because of the wefts part casting way, make the female skirt is like watergeneral dynamic aesthetic feeling, lightsome and unique style and outstanding level.更多还原