【作者】 罗来丽；

【导师】 周赳；

【作者基本信息】 浙江理工大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 本文对机织物色彩设计的原理和方法进行了综合分析，来解决机织物色彩混合设计中面临的织物色差和混色色彩无法预测的问题，通过对相关文献与研究成果进行研究与分析，本课题发现基于全显色结构的机织物色彩混合效果具有规律性，并设计出了一套科学可行的全显色机织物色彩实验方案，包括色卡制作、色卡测色、色彩模拟和混色测试和分析。重点探讨了基于全显色结构的两组纬和三组纬机织物混色的一般性特征和原理，并将其应用于实际的花织物设计中。首先，通过深入分析机织物显色理论、空间并置混色原理及计算机加法（色光）混色原理、色彩空间体系和色彩量化和测定方法，得出红、黄、绿、蓝、黑、白六色最符合机织物对原色混合的要求，CIE1976L a b均匀颜色空间是理想的对机织物的色彩色度值进行量化颜色空间，发现“平均色彩计算”法是便捷和精确的机织物测色法之一。其次，在全显色组织结构设计原理和方法上，对组织结构进行了创新设计，分别完成了两组纬和三组纬全显色织物色卡的组织库设计，并采用原色色纬进行色卡织造和计算机仿真模拟，采用“平均色彩计算”分别对其测色。结果表明：全显色结构的机织物依据可以自己的混色特征建立起实用的色彩模型或色卡用于指导该类织物的色彩设计，而且选用织物组织循环数大的基本组织和优化的结构设计方法可以在一定程度上减少混色效果与预期设计的偏差。最后，依据两组纬的色彩面积的比例关系建立了计算机色彩与组织对应的色卡库，该色卡库以红（R）、绿(G)、蓝(B)、黄(Y)、青(C)和品红(M)六色为原色，共有12种原色纬组合方式表现色彩过渡。通过两组纬混色规律的色彩实验和色卡库设计，以及两组纬提花织物设计实践，验证了该色彩混色规律的有效性和实用性。本课题研究成果不仅为机织物的色彩设计提供了技术参考，在一定程度上减少了设计色彩与实际色彩之间的色差，并为全显色结构提花织物的色彩仿真和创新设计提供了便利方法。此外，该研究为进一步实现机织物智能化快捷设计的技术打下基础。更多还原

【Abstract】 In this paper, a comprehensive analysis on color design principle and method of wovenfabric was proposed in order to resolve the issue that colour aberration is always caused andunpredictable when designing colour mixture of woven fabric. The study found that the colormixture of woven fabric under full-color structure features regularity based on the review ofrelated literatures and outcomes so far. And the scientific and practicable color experiments weredevised, including color table design and color measurement, color simulation as well as test andanalysis of mixed color effect. The study explored the general characteristic and color mixingtheory of woven fabric with double-weft and triple-weft under full-color structure. And then, thefindings of the study were put into design application of figured woven fabric.Firstly, based on in-depth analysis of woven fabric coloring theory, juxtaposition colormixture theory, additive color mixing theory, and the color space system and its measuringmethod six colors (red, yellow, green, blue, black, white) were selected as basic colours to meetthe requirement of color mixture for woven fabric design, and CIE1976L a b uniform colorspace was recognized as an ideal color space for colour quantification of woven fabric. Moreover,the study found that the “average color measurement” is one of convenient and accurate methodsfor the color measurement of woven fabric.Secondly, an innovative design was proposed based on the design principle and method offull-coloring structure. The weave databases were designed for setting up the color tables withboth double-weft and triple-weft. The fabric samples of color tables were made by using basiccolor weft, and then, were simulated and measured by both computer system and the method of“average color measurement”. The experimental results showed that practical color table or colormodel of full-coloring structure for colour design of woven fabric can be set up based on its owncolor mixture characteristics. It is of great benefit to design creations of this kind of fabrics.Moreover, the study found that the deviation between real color mixture effect and predicted effect will be reduced when designing fabric by the larger repeat weaves and/or optimizedstructure designing method.Lastly, the color table with two wefts that corresponding computer color to weave structurewas set up according to the difference proportion of color areas. This color table has6optionalbasic colors (K, G, B, Y, C, M) and12combination methods of basic colors that can be used todesign colour gradation of wefts. The effectiveness and availability of color mixture principlewere verified by colour experiment, design practice of color table and jacquard fabric withdouble-weft.This study provided not only a technical reference for color design of woven fabric that willreduce the color variation between the designing color and actual fabric color to a certain extent,but also a convenient design method for color simulative and innovative design of figured wovenfabric under full-color structure. Moreover, the study laid the foundation for research onintelligent design of woven fabric.更多还原