【作者】 罗玮；

【导师】 陈晓华；

【作者基本信息】 首都师范大学 ， 历史文献学， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 蒙古族所建立的元朝是中国历史上第一个由少数民族缔造的大一统帝国。大量实物、图像和文献史料表明,在其统治时期,蒙古族具有鲜明北方游牧民族特色而迥异于唐宋以来汉族衣冠制度的服饰式样对当时的中国社会服饰行用状况产生了一定的影响。元朝虽然国祚短暂,但其衣冠服饰却并没有随着元帝国的崩溃而在汉地销声匿迹,相反却以不同形式在明代社会上下不同阶层人群中广泛传播流用,有的还延续到了清代。本文不揣浅陋,在大量考察图像与文字史料基础上,对蒙元服饰的诸种样式在明代的行用状况进行深入考索。作为一篇概说,希冀勾勒出蒙元服饰在明代的行用以及演变之脉络,并做出若干具体个案研究。本文收集史料范围不仅包括传统的历史文献,还包括考古发掘成果、古籍版画插图、古代绘画、宗教水陆画以及古代建筑壁画等。本文首先对以往的服饰史研究成果进行了详细的梳理,发现本文所探讨的题目以往论著虽有涉及,但都是只言片语的简单介绍,十分零散化。这暴露了目前服饰史研究中“长时段”研究视野的缺乏,多是局限于某个朝代的隔离化研究,对于前后朝代服饰上的联系关注较少。此外,本文还看到目前的服饰史研究还多限于“考证形制”的工艺美术史研究范式,而未能充分发掘古代服饰背后大量有价值的历史信息。因此本文除了考证“蒙元服饰在明代的存废与形制上的变化”等服饰史研究的传统问题外,还将在社会史视野下进行一系列考察。如对明代各种蒙元服饰遗存的行用阶层人群、职业划分、行用原因以及对明代社会心理之影响重要问题进行初步的考辩。并且本文试图从“服饰”这一具体角度窥视金元以来北方民族大量内迁所致中国社会的变迁,这是本文最终的“问题意识”。更多还原

【Abstract】 The Yuan Dynasty established by Mongolians is the first territorially integrated empire founded by an ethnic group in Chinese history. A huge number of ancient objects, pictures and historical records have proven that in the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolian people’s distinctive clothing style characteristic of their nomadic identity exerted an influence upon the Chinese fashion design of that period. Even after the collapse of the Yuan Dynasty, the Mongolian style did not disappear but became even more popular in various forms throughout the Ming Dynasty. Some of the designs had even been inherited by the designers in the Qing Dynasty. This thesis attempts to take a serious study on the application and history of the Mongolian design in various forms in the Ming Dynasty.As a survey, this thesis is expected to be an elaboration of the use and development of the Mongolian fashion design in the Ming Dynasty. It chooses eight Mongolian styles that appear most frequently in the extant historical records and pictures. Among them, five are hats and three are clothes. Their names are listed below: Boli Hat, a hat like a cymbal; Zhiyan Big Hat, a hat with a plain brim; Skull Hat; Juanyan Hat, a hat with a reversed brim; Waleng Hat, a hat with four edges; The Plait-line Robe; Jisun, a suit of the same color and Bijia, a special sleeveless jacket.This thesis also attempts to describe the changes of Chinese society since the Jin and Yuan Dynasties through the study on clothing. This is the author’s starting point in his historical research. By analyzing the fashion design field in the Yuan Dynasty, we are able to find clearly that after the population migration from the northern part of China to the southern part during the Jin and Yuan period, the clothing style in the Ming Dynasty was quite different from that of Tang and Song Dynasties. To some extent, the author believes that this might indicate another social trend. The inherited Mongolian design could be changed and re-designed in many other ways, so as to generate much more fashion styles later.In addition, the author also made an inspection of the clothing used in the Qing Dynasty. Interestingly, the author discovered that some Manchurian representative clothes and designs did not appear initially in the Qing Dynasty. Actually these so-called Manchurian clothing was widely used by the Han ethnic people before the establishment of Qing Dynasty. This is a breakthrough in our study on the society of the Qing Dynasty. By this means, we are able to feel the strong power of the historical tradition and we are also able to know the necessity of studying history from a macro-and long-term perspective. Accordingly, although the former studies only focus on a single dynasty and its social phenomena, we by now should not take a single dynasty as our only concern in many fields. Instead, we should study history as a whole.This thesis is also viewed as a foundation for the case studies in the author’s later research characteristic of testifying the historical records through ancient pictures.更多还原