【作者】 赵雨；

【导师】 张祖芳；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 伴随着日益紧张的工作,人们的穿着更倾向于个性化、多样化和休闲化。因此服装的面料开发、服装设计也正朝着多元化方向发展以满足市场需要和广大消费者的工作生活需求。传统裤装设计较单一,舒适性较好的女裤美观性欠佳,美观性较好的女裤穿着后却缺乏舒适性。本论文尝试以女裤某部位特征值为切入点来分析女裤美观舒适性的关系。通过市场调研本论文确定了深受广大消费者青睐的女子合体低腰裤为研究对象,通过基础理论研究、实验分析和数据建模等方法,对女子合体低腰裤美观性及舒适性进行了研究。主要内容如下：1、基于对女裤款式、面料的市场调研确定本论文研究对象为女子合体低腰裤,且采用含3%氨纶棉混纺面料。参考现有女裤研究,通过反复试验确定本论文所研究女裤的基础纸样、规格尺寸和影响女裤款式造型的定量、变量。本论文确定裤长、腰围、臀围、前裆宽、后裆宽、前裆弯、后裆弯为定量；中裆值和本论文所定义的特征值a为自变量。2、以中裆值和a的不同组合为切入点,来讨论女子合体低腰裤美观舒适性的关联程度,并进行实验方案设计,最终确定并制作样裤数量为15条。围绕此实验方案,设置静态美观性指标7项,动态舒适性指标5项。并进行动、静态着装实验和主、客观评价实验。静态客观评价采用图像处理技术,提取静态穿着实验照片中多部位特征值。通过分析多项特征值得到的相应指标能在客观上反应出裤装美观程度。同时,本论文将上述客观图像评价方法程序化,大大提高了评价速度和精确度。3、对实验主观评价者有效性分析；主、客观实验数据相关性分析和聚类分析；建立静态美观性评价值模型,动态舒适性评价值模型和不同权重的动、静态综合评价值模型共7个回归数学模型。模型以女裤美观性、舒适性评价值为因变量,中裆值、a值为自变量。本论文还创新了女裤后片结构设计方法。4、在论文研究范围内随机选择一组规格尺寸进行模型检验。制作检验女裤进行主、客观评价实验得到实验值；通过所建数学模型计算得到相应理论值。比较实验值和理论值,检验结果显示模型有效。根据上述模型设计了样板自动生成系统,该系统在定量固定条件下根据不同评价值模型快速计算出符合某评价值和a值所需的中裆值；且能直观,高效地展示相应女裤纸样。本论文将影响女子合体低腰裤美观舒适性的因子进行了筛选和分析,研究出了中裆和特征值a对女子合体低腰裤美观舒适性的影响关系,以此建立回归模型,设计出相应模型的女裤样板自动生成系统；创新了女裤结构设计方法,这也是本论文的创新点。本论文研究得出的规律与方法丰富了女裤结构设计方法；提高了女子合体低腰裤美观舒适性平衡设计的准确度和速度；为弹性面料的女裤研究提供了有效的方法借鉴；为企业相关女裤设计与生产提供了一套直接、有效的应用技术,故本论文具有较大的学术价值和实践意义。更多还原

【Abstract】 With increased works, men’s wears have more individuation, variety and leisure, thus the exploitation of fashion materials and fashion design become diversiform in order to meet the markets and customers’needs. Traditional pants’ design is lack of variety and comfortability. Comfortable pants are short of beauty, and beautiful pants cannot be worn comfortably. This study tries to analyze the relationship between beauty and comfortability based on eigenvalue. Through market survey, this study focuses on researching women fitting low-waist pants which are favoured by public customers. With the methods of basically theoretical research, experimental analysis and data modeling, this study analyze both beauty and comfortability. The main points is as follows,1、this study determines to research women fitting low-waist pants and use fibre with cotton and 3% polyurethane based on market survey of women pants’ styles and fibres. Referring to presently women pants’research, this study confirms basic pattern, size, quantitative and variable with repeated experiments. Quantitative are the length, the waist, the hip, the width of front crotch, the width of back crotch, the front curve crotch and the back curve crotch. Variable are the leg width and the eigenvalue.2、Based on leg width and a, this study discusses the relationship between beauty and comfortability of women fitting low-waist pants, and confirms experimental project design and 15 pieces of pants. According to this project design, this study sets 7 indexes of static and beauty, and 5 indexes of dynamic and comfortability. It also contains static and dynamic dressing experiments and subjective and objective assessment experiments. Static and dynamic assessment experiments use image processing technology to extract eigenvalues form experimental photos. The indexes, getting from analyzing several eigenvalus, can objectively reflect the extent of beauty. Meanwhile, this study programs the objective assessment method which mentions above. It dramatically increases the speed of assessment and improves the accuracy.3、This study have effectiveness analysis of subjective valuators, correlation analysis of subjectively and objectively experimental data and cluster analysis; makes seven mathematic models a static and beauty assessment model, dynamitic and a comfortability assessment modes and statically and dynamically comprehensive models with different weight. The dependent variables are women pants’beauty and comfortability; the independent variables are leg width and a. Furthermore, this study creates the design method of women pants’back part.4、Random a suit of sizes is chose from the range of the research. Experimental values are obtained through making a piece of pant and subject and objective assessment; theoretical values are obtained through calculating mathematic models. Comparing experimental values and theoretical values, the result is valid. Based on these models, this study designs an automatic generation pattern system. This system can quickly calculate the leg width to satisfy certain assessment value and through different models when the static is fix, and it directly and efficiently displays women pants’pattern.This study chooses and analyzes the factors which affect women fitting low-waist pants’ beauty and comfortability, and finds out the extent of impact on beauty and comfortability by leg width and a. According to these, several models are made, women pant’ automatic generation pattern system are designed, and a new women pant’s design method is created. There are innovative points in this study. The disciplines and methods which get from this research enrich the women pants’design methods; improve the accuracy and speed of balanced beauty and comfortability; provide elastic fabric’ women pants’design with an effective reference; provide industry to design relative women pant’ design with a directly and efficiently applicative technology, therefore this study has academic value and practical significance.更多还原