【作者】 周丹；

【导师】 刘咏梅；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 牛仔裤的款式特征明显,样板设计成为彰显牛仔裤款式特征的关键技术,样板设计的优劣和样板设计的效率直接决定牛仔裤的造型效果、产品定价以及顾客购买情况。牛仔裤的样板设计关联款式造型、面料性能、后处理工艺以及人群体型特征等因素,样板设计受多因素的影响,但也有很强的规律性可探索可研究。目前国内牛仔裤样板设计普遍依赖板师的个体经验,且科学化系统化不够,不利于产业技术升级和产业竞争力的提升。CAD技术在牛仔裤的样板设计中虽已得到一定的普及应用,但经过产业调研目前国内的牛仔裤生产中的CAD技术应用多停留在CAD技术的简单运用,与国外的自动设计自动生产自动个体定制的示范生产线有着很大的差距。针对牛仔裤样板设计过多依赖板师个体经验这一问题,本文通过产业调研,深入了解牛仔裤产业加工的流程与关键技术,归纳出牛仔裤产业样板设计方法,并对4种典型款式的牛仔裤进行样裤试制。在产业调研的基础上,总结各种款式样板设计的特点与共性,提炼牛仔裤样板设计的参数因子,如人体体型数据因子、款式特征因子、面料性征因子以及工艺处理因子等。同时,结合教材中裤装结构设计方法对现有产业牛仔裤样板设计方法进行优化和改进,确定了一套科学准确的牛仔裤样板设计方法。针对CAD技术在打板环节的使用还停留在简单运用阶段这一问题,本文采用CAD自动打板技术实现了牛仔裤批量化生产样板和个性化定制样板的CAD快速自动生成。通过CAD样板快速生成的模块设计,建立牛仔裤样板“模板”,该“模板”在导入号型尺寸表以后能对不同人体体型、不同面料弹性、不同款式造型的牛仔裤样板实现准确、快速生成。最后,本文共设计4组样裤实验及人体试穿实验,对牛仔裤样板设计方法的科学性和准确性及CAD牛仔裤样板快速生成的运行进行验证。通过基于人体体型变化的样裤实验人体试穿实验得出“模板”适用于不同人体体型的牛仔裤样板的快速、准确生成；通过基于面料弹性变化的样裤实验人体试穿实验得出“模板”适用于面料弹性的牛仔裤样板的快速、准确生成；通过基于洗水工艺变化的样裤实验人体试穿实验得出“模板”适用于不同洗水工艺的牛仔裤样板的快速、准确生成；通过基于款式变化的样裤实验人体试穿实验得出“模板”适用于不同款式的牛仔裤样板的快速、准确生成。更多还原

【Abstract】 Jeans style has distinctive characteristics, and pattern design is the key technology to highlight the characteristics of jeans style. The quality and efficiency of the jeans pattern design, directly decide the wearing effect, pricing and sales. Jeans pattern design associated with many factors such as the body figure, the style, fabric performance, washing and so on, but there are strong regularity can be explored. Currently, the domestic jeans pattern design in the industry generally relies on individual experience, and the method is not scientific and systematic enough. So this is not conducive to industrial technology upgrading and enhancing industrial competitiveness. In addition, although CAD technology is popular used in pattern design, according to market research, current domestic manage of CAD technology still stays in the simple use. And compare to abroad auto design, auto production, auto individual custom made, there is a big distance.In order to improve the condition of jeans pattern design too much reliance on individual experience, this paper process an industrial research, and get the key technologies of jeans manufacturing and pattern design. Then, four typical styles of jeans are made by the technologies. Secondly, it summed up the characteristics and commonness of jeans pattern design in different styles, refining the parameters factors of jeans pattern design, such as body figure, fabric feature style character and washing. Finally, it reaches a set of scientific and accurate jeans pattern design method with the combination of pants pattern design theory.In order to improve the condition of CAD technology still stays in the simple use in pattern design, CAD automatic pattern making technology was inducted to realize jean pattern’s quick generation both in mass production and custom made. By the aid of CAD modular technology, a special "template" for jeans pattern design is created, the "template" can realize jean pattern’s quick and accurate generation with conditions of different body figures, different fabric stretches, and different styles. Finally, four group experiments were designed to verify the accuracy of the pattern design method and CAD automatic generation system. The sample pant and body fitting experiments certificate the "template" can realize jean pattern’s quick and accurate generation in conditions of different body figures, different fabric stretches, and different styles and different washing.更多还原