【作者】 高晶晶；

【导师】 徐广标；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 PTT“形状记忆”织物是采用聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯长丝织造的新型轻薄高密面料,具有突出服装塑形性和易护理性。本文研究该类织物低温动态力学性能、服装造型性能、对该类织物适合的服装款式判别进行客观评价以及刮擦现象,补充与完善现有PTT“形状记忆”织物相关特性研究及机理分析,进而为PTT面料开发提供技术支持。本文的主要研究内容和结论如下：一、关于PTT“形状记忆”织物低温动态力学性能利用动态力学热分析测试方法,对PTT“形状记忆”及其对比样PET“仿记忆”、尼龙的长丝、织物及织物中的长丝进行了低温动态力学性能试验分析,探讨了加工工艺对长丝低温动态力学性能的影响。研究发现,(1)PTT长丝弹性模量居中,PET长丝大,尼龙长丝弹性模量小,随着温度的降低,三者的弹性模量都不断增大,且PET长丝弹性模量增大幅度大。PTT长丝、PET长丝、尼龙长丝低温转变峰的温度分别约为-65～-55℃和-50～-40℃和-40～-30℃。(2)PTT“形状记忆”织物的经、纬向弹性模量较小,且随着温度的降低呈现小幅度增大,织物的经、纬向低温转变峰温度分别约为-30～-20℃和-35～-25℃；PET“仿记忆”织物和尼龙织物的经、纬向弹性模量较大,且随着温度的降低呈现相对大幅度增大,PET“仿记忆”织物的经纬向低温转变峰温度分别约为-35～-25℃和-30～-10℃,尼龙织物的经、纬向低温转变峰温度分别约为-15～-5℃和-55～-45℃。(3)PTT“形状记忆”织物纬纱弹性模量较PTT长丝稍小,说明经过加工工艺织造受力后,纬纱变得更柔软些。纬纱、PTT长丝低温转变峰温度分别约为-35～-25℃和-65～-55℃,发生了约30℃的偏移,其低温转变峰较PTT长丝高；PET“仿记忆”织物经纬纱弹性模量较PET长丝小,说明经过加工工艺织造受力后,经纬纱变得更柔软。经纬纱、PET长丝低温转变峰温度分别约为-25～-15℃和-40～-30℃和-50～-40℃,发生了约25℃和10℃的偏移,且其低温转变峰较PET长丝高；尼龙织物经纬纱弹性模量较尼龙长丝大,说明经过加工工艺织造受力后,经纬纱变得更刚硬些,经纬纱、尼龙长丝低温转变峰温度分别约为-30～-20℃和-35～-25℃和-40～-30℃,经纬纱向高温区域分别发生了约10℃和5℃的偏移,且其低温转变峰较尼龙长丝低。(4)在所测温度范围内,PTT纬纱弹性模量较织造前长丝要小,在三类织物中最小；PET纬纱弹性模量较织造前长丝要小,但在三类织物中最大；尼龙纬纱经过加工工艺织造受力后,模量增大,其弹性模量在三类织物中居中。织造后3类织物纬纱低温转变峰的温度差异变小,均在-30℃左右,且织造后3类织物低温转变峰高度差异不大。二、关于PTT“形状记忆”织物服装造型性能对PTT“形状记忆”织物及其对比样“半记忆”织物、PET“仿记忆”织物和尼龙织物分别从弧度塑形性、非熨烫式褶裥塑形性和力刺激折痕回复性三大服装造型元素展开,进行了服装造型性能对比研究,分析了结构参数对织物服装造型性的影响。研究发现,(1)PTT"形状记忆"织物及其对比样“半记忆"织物、PET"仿记忆”织物和尼龙织物经纬向及45°方向弧度塑形高度平均值分别在12mm以上,9～11mm,9～11mm,4～5.5mm,PTT"形状记忆”织物弧度塑形效果好,“半记忆”织物和PET"仿记忆”织物弧度塑形效果较好,尼龙织物弧度塑形效果不明显。(2)四类织物非熨烫式褶裥保持率相差不大,均在50%-60%范围内,PTT"形状记忆"织物及其对比样“半记忆”织物、PET"仿记忆”织物和尼龙织物非熨烫式褶裥保持率分别为60.6%,51.9%,57.3%,58.9%,都易塑造成褶裥。(3)经过低温模拟熨斗作用力的刺激后,PTT“形状记忆”织物、“半记忆”织物基本回复平展状态,折痕回复率在80%以上,达到免烫效果；PET“仿记忆”织物回复率也较高,约为75%；尼龙织物相比较小,约为60%,尼龙长丝对低温模拟熨斗作用力的刺激不是很敏感。三、关于PTT“形状记忆”织物服装款式判别采用KES-F型织物风格仪和相关仪器测量织物基本性能指标,运用面料所适合的基本服装类型的三群判别公式,对PTT“形状记忆”织物及几类常规织物所适合的最佳服装款式类型进行了判别。研究发现,(1)PTT“形状记忆”织物、“半记忆”织物、PET“仿记忆”织物适合的服装款式属于宽松挺括类,除个别尼龙织物介于宽松挺括类和悬垂类之间或介于宽松挺括类和制服类之间外,大部分尼龙织物款式也属于宽松挺括类。(2)PTT“形状记忆”织物、“半记忆”织物、PET“仿记忆”织物的弯曲滞后量2HB、剪切刚度G、剪切滞后量2HG和2HG5明显大于尼龙织物和棉织物。(3)对比发现,基本力学指标中弯曲和剪切性能对面料适合的服装款式判别影响较大。四、关于PTT“形状记忆”织物刮擦现象采用扫描电子显微镜及高倍光学显微镜观察了PTT“形状记忆”织物及其对比样PET“仿记忆"织物、尼龙织物在大小适宜的刮擦作用力约300g(3N)及不同的划痕条件(人体指甲、钥匙、刀片)下的织物表面,研究发现,PTT“形状记忆”织物经人体指甲的刮擦力作用后产生白色擦痕,同一划痕条件不同织物,尼龙织物耐刮擦性能好,PTT“形状记忆”织物次之,而PET“仿记忆”织物稍差。更多还原

【Abstract】 PTT shape memory fabric is made by polytrimethylene terephthalate filaments, it is a new kind of light thin and high density fabric, and it has outstanding clothing plasticity and easy care properties. In this paper, low temperature dynamic mechanical property, garments’ styling property, garments’ style discrimination and scratch phenomenon of this kind of fabric were investigated, what’s more, correlate properties study and mechanism analysis were added and completed in order to provide technical support to the development of PTT shape memory fabric.Main research contents and conclusions are as follows: 1. About low temperature dynamic mechanical property of PTT shape memory fabricDynamic mechanical thermal analysis was used to analyse low temperature dynamic mechanical properties of filament, fabric and filament in the fabric of PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric, and then influence of processing technology on low temperature dynamic mechanical property of filament was discussed. It was found that,(1) Modulus of elasticity of PTT filament was placed in the middle, of PET filament was big and of Nylon filament was small. As the temperature reducing, they were all increasing, and the increase amplitude of PET filament was big. Low temperature transition peak of them were from-65 to -55℃, from -50 to -40℃and from -40 to -30℃respectively.(2) Modulus of elasticity in warp and weft direction of PTT shape memory fabric were small, they showed small range increased as the temperature reducing, low temperature transition peak in warp and weft direction were from -30 to -20℃and from -35 to -25℃respectively. Modulus of elasticity in warp and weft direction of PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric were bigger, they showed relatively large range increased as the temperature reducing, low temperature transition peak in warp and weft direction of PET imitate shape memory fabric were from -35 to-25℃and from -30 to-10℃respectively, of Nylon fabric were from -15 to -5℃and from -55 to-45℃respectively.(3) Modulus of elasticity of PTT shape memory fabric’s weft was a little smaller than PTT filament, that’s to say, weft turn into softer after weaving stress of processing technology. Low temperature transition peak of weft and PTT filament were from -35 to -25℃and from -65 to-55℃respectively, which showed migration about 30℃, moreover low temperature transition peak of weft was higher than PTT filament.Modulus of elasticity of PET imitate shape memory fabric’s warp and weft were smaller than PET filament, that’s to say, warp and weft turn into softer after weaving stress of processing technology. Low temperature transition peak of warp, weft and PET filament were from -25 to-15℃,-40 to -30℃and from -50 to -40℃respectively, which showed migration about 25℃and 10℃, moreover low temperature transition peak of warp and weft were higher than PET filament.Modulus of elasticity of Nylon fabric’s warp and weft were bigger than Nylon filament, that’s to say, warp and weft turn into harder after weaving stress of processing technology. Low temperature transition peak of warp, weft and Nylon filament were from -30 to -20℃,-35 to-25℃and from -40 to -30℃respectively, which showed migration about 10℃and 5℃, moreover low temperature transition peak of warp and weft were lower than Nylon filament.(4) In the range of test temperature, modulus of elasticity of PTT weft was smaller than filament before weaving, and it was also the smallest among those three fabrics; modulus of elasticity of PET weft was smaller than filament before weaving, but it was the biggest among those three fabrics; modulus of elasticity of Nylon weft was bigger after weaving stress of processing technology, and it was placed in the middle among those three fabrics. After weaving, differences of low temperature transition peak of weft among those three fabrics became small, which were all about -30℃. What’s more, differences of the height of low temperature transition peak among those three fabrics were not obvious.2. About garments’ styling property of PTT shape memory fabricGarments’ styling property contrast studies about PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric, PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric were unfolded from the view of garments’styling elements such as radian plasticity. non-iron pleat plasticity and force stimulating crease recovery, then the influences of structural parameters on garments’styling property were analysed. It was found that,(1) Radian plasticity average height in warp, weft and 45°direction of PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric, PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric were above 12mm,9 to 11mm,9 to 11mm and 4 to 5.5mm respectively, the radian plasticity effect of PTT shape memory fabric was excellent, of PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric and PET imitate shape memory fabric were preferably, of Nylon fabric was not obvious.(2) Non-iron pleat retention rate of those fabrics were more or less the same, they were all in the range of 50% to 60%, non-iron pleat retention rate of PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric, PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric were 60.6%,51.9%,57.3% and 58.9% respectively, they were all easily to model into pleat.(3) After low temperature imitate iron force stimulating, PTT shape memory fabric and PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric were basic reply to flatten state, crease recovery rate were above 80%, reached non-iron effect. Crease recovery rate of PET imitate shape memory fabric was also relative high which was about 75%, of Nylon fabric was relative low which was about 60%, that’s to say, Nylon filament wasn’t sensitive about low temperature imitate iron force stimulating.3. About garments’ style discrimination of PTT shape memory fabricKES-F tester and related instruments were used to measure fabric basic performance index, three group of discriminant which was about basic garment type suitable for fabric was also used to discriminate PTT shape memory fabric and several kinds of conventional fabric. It was found that,(1) PTT shape memory fabric, PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric and PET imitate shape memory fabric were suitable for loose and stiff smooth type, besides individual Nylon fabric were suitable between loose and stiff smooth type and overhang type or between loose and stiff smooth type and uniform type, most of them were also suitable for loose and stiff smooth type.(2) Bending lag 2HB, shearing rigidity G, shearing hysteresis 2HG and 2HG5 of PTT shape memory fabric, PTT/PET semi-shape memory fabric and PET imitate shape memory fabric were obvious bigger than Nylon fabric and cotton fabric. (3) By comparison, among basic mechanics index, bending and shearing performance had great influence to garments’ style discrimination.4. About scratch phenomenon of PTT shape memory fabricScanning electron microscope and high optical microscope were used to observe the fabric surface of PTT shape memory fabric and contrast samples of PET imitate shape memory fabric and Nylon fabric under appropriate scratch force about 300g (3N) and different scratch conditions such as body nail, key and blade. It was found that after exerting body nail scratch force, PTT shape memory fabric produced white striation, what’s more, under the condition of the same scratch condition and different fabrics, scratch resistance property of Nylon fabric was good, of PTT shape memory fabric took second place, and of PET imitate shape memory fabric was slightly worse.更多还原