【作者】 黄英；

【导师】 崔志英；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2012， 硕士

【摘要】 中国是全球最大的服装消费国和生产出口国。自2008年起,受国内外因素影响,中国服装业的发展步入了结构化调整的新阶段。人台是服装设计、服装生产制作、服装检验与评价的重要工具,是服装立体裁剪设计的重要载体。然而我国的人台行业起步较晚,发展不成熟,在人台的生产和制作中存在体型差异、标准不同、精度不够等问题,下装人台尤甚。因此研究适合国民体型特征的下装人台迫在眉睫。本文以服务于华东地区25～55岁成年女性的下装人台研究为出发点进行如下研究：(1)下装人台市场调研。本文通过对服装类相关企业和院校以问卷调研的形式调查国内下装人台的使用情况：下装人台在中国市场上还处于研发初期；使用者对下装人台的满意度较低,且最关心人台的造型和尺寸这两大要素。(2)下装人台规格系列的设计。本文随机抽取了200名华东地区25～55岁成年女子为样本进行女子下体体型研究,通过[TC]2三维人体测量系统采集与女子下体体型相关的36项指标数据,用SPSS数理统计软件对采集的数据进行数据检验、主成分、聚类等数理统计分析。通过基本数理分析得到该群体的下体体型呈现矮胖的特征。通过聚类分析和主成分分析得到表征人体腰臀躯干的围度指标和体重对成年女子下体体型的影响最大,其次是表征人体高度的指标。参考国家标准,本文以腰臀差作为体型分类标准,将华东地区25-55岁成年女子分成P(梨形体)、M(中间体)、F(偏胖体)、O(柱形体)四类,并确定下体体型的控制部位为腰围、腹围、臀围、大腿根围、腰围高、下裆高、膝高、腹臀厚,共8项。采用二元线性回归方程确定各控制部位的分档数,并最终建立对应的下体号型规格系列。(3)三维女性下体模型的构建。本文选取160M为中间体,利用AutoCAD对[TC]2三维人体测量系统扫描得到的中间体模型文件提取代表人体特征的61个截面型值点和截面高度坐标,构建下体特征矩阵,并作平均化和对称化的处理。使用3DMESH三维建模功能构建华东地区25～55岁成年女子的下体三维虚拟模型。(4)三维女性下体模型的修正。参考国家标准和下装人台的实际需求,根据人体下体各特征截面在不同尺寸间的变化规律对中间体三维虚拟模型进行修正。(5)实物下装人台的制作和检验。制作一华东地区25-55岁成年女子中间体下体体型特征的下装人台,并通过尺寸和造型检验验证其准确性和实用性。更多还原

【Abstract】 China is the largest country of apparel consumption, production and exporting in the world. Being influenced by domestic and overseas factors, the development of China’s garment industry has stepped into a new structural adjustment stage since the year 2008. Mannequins acted as an important tool during the process of garment design, production, inspection and evaluation. Meanwhile they acted as an important carrier for garment draping and designing. However, the mannequin industry in China was immature and still in the early stage. There were abundant problems in Mannequins, especially in lower-body mannequins, for instance:body classification, standard difference as well as precision insufficient. Therefore, researching of the adult-female lower-body mannequins which were suitable for national was pressing.This research was dedicated to develop the lower-body mannequins for adult-female aged 25 to 55. Based on the above objectives, the researcher outlined the following proposals:(1) Surveying of lower-body mannequins. Researcher surveyed apparel enterprises and colleges using questionnaire to observe how the lower-body mannequins are being used. The survey revealed that:lower-body mannequins in china were still in a researching stage; users showed low degree of satisfaction for the lower-body mannequins, but paid more attention to the shape and size factors.(2) Establishing the sizing system for the lower-body mannequins.200 adult-female of 25-55 were randomly selected for lower-body shape research in East China.36 measurements were used to characterize female lower-body shape mainly by TC2 3D body scanner system. The data was analyzed by statistical means of description, principal component analysis and cluster analysis. The basic data analysis showed that these adult-female had a short stout feature. The cluster analysis and the principal component analysis showed that girth indexes in waist to hip and weight indexes influenced mostly on adult-female lower-body shape. Height indexes were secondly influencing. Referencing National standards, the lower-body shape of adult-female aged 25 to 55 in East China was divided into four types according to waist-hip difference as the standard of body classification: P(pear) type、M(middle) type、F(fat) type and O(column) type. Then 8 restrictive positions were confirmed to describe the features of different body: Waist Girth, Abdomen Girth, Hip Girth, Thigh Circumference, Waist Height, Crotch Length, Knee Height, Abdomen-hip Thickness. The grading counts for 8 restrictive positions were given through two element linear regression equation. Finally, lower-body size specifications series were established.(3) Constructing the three-dimensional adult-female lower-body modeling.160M was selected as intermediate. Coordinates of cross section and section height which showed body feature were extracted by AutoCAD from model documents. The model documents were collected from [TC]2 3D body scanner system. Matrix of lower-body was structured and disposed of average and symmetrical. Then 3D lower-body modeling for adult-female aged 25 to 55 in east China were given attributing to3DMESH for its modeling function.(4) Amending the 3D lower-body modeling. Referring to national standards and actual demand, the amendment of 3D lower-body modeling was proceeded based on the changing regularity of sections in different size.(5) Fabricating and examining the lower-body mannequins. A lower-body mannequin characterized lower-body shape feature of adult-female aged 25 to 55 in east china was fabricated and examined accuracy and practicality for its size and shape.更多还原