【作者】 吴琳红；

【导师】 刘咏梅；

【作者基本信息】 东华大学 ， 服装设计与工程， 2012， 硕士

【副题名】东华原型的再修正及浮余量与胸围松量变化的关系研究

【摘要】 东华大学基于中国人体群体体型特征以及科学服装原型理论的长期研究成果,于1998年首次建立的中国女子上装衣身原型——东华原型,并于2008年发布了基于群体体型变化特征研究修正的东华原型2008版。原型的验证和修正是一个持续的过程,东华原型理论的持续性研究以及基于人体体型变化特征的修正是一个延续深入的研究课题。本课题在持续监测东华原型与人体体型变化特征的适应性基础上,再次选取随机样本进行体型测量及样衣补正实验,针对东华原型中与人体适应性较弱的部位进行进一步修正。此外,对于浮余量与胸围松量变化关系的研究空白进行补充性研究,建立了浮余量与胸围松量关系回归模型,提高了东华原型在不同胸围松量条件下的应用的准确性,对于原型的应用和推广具有重要意义。本课题以人体测量以及补正实验所得数据为依据,以实验结果为基础,对东华原型进行了持续性的修正,并研究了浮余量与胸围松量的变化关系,进一步拓展了东华原型的理论系统,对东华原型的实际应用具有一定的指导意义。研究内容主要包括以下四个方面：1.原型理论的深入理解和研究：查阅欧美及日本服装原型理论的发展和研究现状,剖析国内服装原型理论的研究现状及东华原型的持续性研究成果,提出对东华原型进一步修正和浮余量与松量关系研究的必要性。2.东华原型的持续验证和修正实验研究：利用三维人体测量与手工测量相结合的方法,制作77件2008版修正版东华原型样衣进行样衣补正实验,提取各部位修正数据,用SPSS软件进行数据处理和分析,总结修正规律,得到最新修正原型。3.浮余量与胸围松量变化关系研究：依据原型修正结果设计制作27件不同胸围松量条件下的样衣,运用立体与平面相结合的方法,测量记录不同胸围松量条件下浮余量修正前后的变化,通过SPSS软件进行数据处理和分析,建立浮余量与胸围松量变化关系模型。4.对浮余量与胸围松量关系模型进行验证：一方面通过对比实验验证净胸围发生变化条件下模型的适用性,另一方面结合衬衣和旗袍两个款式,通过对比和拓展实验验证模型的适用性。更多还原

【Abstract】 Donghua basic block was established by Donghua University in 1998, based on the research of Chinese female body type and achievements of scientific basic block theory. Then in 2008, the amendment version of Donghua basic block was released.The continuous research and amendment of Donghua basic block theory system, which caused by the population body size variation, is an extension project. Keep monitoring the adaptability between Donghua basic block and the variation characteristics of Chinese body type, this project selected random subjects to do body measurements and clothing rectification experiments, further revised the weaker adaptable positions between Donghua basic block and human body. In addition, refer to the research blank of relationship between body float and bust ease, a complementary study was made. Meanwhile, an regression model between body float and bust ease was established, that not only enhanced the accuracy when used Donghua basic block in the condition of different bust eases, but also very important to the prototype usage and popularization.Based on the data obtained from the body measurements and clothing rectification experiments, the 2011 revised version of Donghua basic block was established. And research the relationship of body float and bust ease, further expanding the Donghua basic block theory system, and hope to be a guiding for the practical application of Donghua basic block. The mainly content includes four parts in detail as follows:1. In-depth understanding and research of prototype theory:Consult the development and research status of Europe, America, and Japan fashion prototype theory, analyzes the present research situation of domestic clothing prototype theory and continuous research achievements of Donghua prototype, and puts forward the necessities of further revise Donghua basic block and study about the relationship between body float and bust ease.2. The continuous validation and amendment of Donghua basic block:Combined with 3D scanner TC2 and manual measurement methods, made 77samples for the clothing rectification experiment. Through recording, processing and analyzing the fixed data with SPSS statistic software, summarizing the amendment regulation, a new revision Donghua basic block is established.3. Research on the relationship between the body float and bust ease:Given the basic block revise results mentioned above,27 samples of different bust eases was designed and sewed. Combined with the three-dimensional and plane method, measure and record the changed data before and after revise. Through processing and analyzing the fixed data with SPSS statistic software, get the regression model between the body float and bust ease.4. Verification experiments of the regression model between the body float and bust ease:On the one hand, through the contrast experiments, verificate the applicability of regression model on the condition of different net bust. On the other hand, with shirt and Qipao pattern, verificate the applicability of the experiment model through the contrast and expand experiments.更多还原