【作者】 樊明山；

【导师】 金子敏；

【作者基本信息】 浙江理工大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2011， 硕士

【摘要】 本课题主要研究三角中空锦纶无缝针织物的相关性能,三角中空锦纶丝属于差别化纤维,它是通过改变纤维的横截面形状而得到的三角中空异形纤维。为了研究其性能,采用了普通锦纶、三角中空锦纶、圆形中空锦纶三种纱线作为面纱,试织了三种原料的无缝针织物,进行性能的对比试验,最后评价三角中空锦纶的性能。本课题选择了正交试验建立试验方案。设立了3因素:因素A（纱线种类）包括三个水平,即三种纱线分别为:普通锦纶、三角中空锦纶、圆形中空锦纶三种纱线;因素B（组织结构）也包括三个水平,即三种组织结构,这三种组织结构是目前无缝针织内衣款式设计中很有代表性的组织,它们分别为平纹添纱组织、1×1假罗纹组织、1×3假罗纹组织;因素C（压针）包括两水平:压针1（八路平均压针为+120个压针）、压针2（八路平均压针为+114个压针）。“无缝针织内衣”作为内衣领域的新宠儿,集舒适性、合体性以及款式多样性于一身。无缝针织内衣最大的特点是一次成形,其设计好坏不仅影响其外观的效果,如悬垂性、紧密度、色彩和款式的风格等,而且关键会影响到无缝内衣的穿着舒适性,如透气性、透湿性、保暖性等。影响无缝内衣产品外观或者穿着舒适性的因素很多,其中主要包括纱线的种类、组织结构、以及线圈的大小,因此有必要对不同纱线、组织结构和线圈密度的无缝针织内衣进行尺寸稳定性和热湿舒适性方面的研究。采用L₁₈（2×3⁷）正交表分析了各因素水平对织物的纵向和横向缩水率、织物定伸长弹性回复率、透气率、透湿量、芯吸高度、保暖系数的影响大小。根据极差分析及最优化组合得出:各因素对织物纵向缩水率的影响大小顺序为:R_B（组织结构）>R_A（纱线）>R_C（压针）,在因素B中,1×3假罗纹组织织物的纵向缩水率最大,其次是1×1假罗纹组织,平纹组织织物的缩水率最小;各因素对织物横向缩水率的影响大小顺序为:R_A（纱线）>R_C（压针）> R_B（组织结构）,在因素A中,对无缝针织物的横向缩水率影响大小顺序为:圆形中空锦纶>普通锦纶>三角中空锦纶,三角中空锦纶的无缝针织物横向缩水率最小;各因素对织物的定伸长弹性回复率影响大小顺序为:R_B（组织结构）>R_C（压针）> R_A（纱线）,而且1×1假罗纹组织织物的定伸长弹性回复率最大,其次是1×3假罗纹组织织物,平纹组织织物的定伸长弹性回复率最小;各因素对织物的透气率影响大小顺序为:R_A（纱线）>R_C>（压针）R_B（组织结构）,在因素A中,各水平对织物的透气率影响大小顺序为三角中空锦纶>圆形中空锦纶>普通锦纶。这说明异形中空锦纶无缝针织物的透气性好于普通锦纶无缝针织物。尤其是三角中空锦纶的无缝针织物透气性最好;各因素对织物的透湿量影响大小顺序为:R_A（纱线）>R_C（压针）=R_B（组织结构）,在因素A中,三角中空锦纶织物的透湿量最大,其次是普通锦纶织物,最小的是圆形中空锦纶织物;各因素对织物的芯吸高度影响大小顺序为:R_A（纱线）>R_B（组织结构）>R_C（压针）,在因素A中,普通锦纶织物的芯吸高度最大,其次是三角中空锦纶织物,最小的是圆形中空锦纶织物;各因素对织物的保暖性影响大小顺序为:R_A（纱线）>R_B（组织结构）>R_C（压针）,在因素A中,圆形中空锦纶织物保暖性最好,其次是三角中空锦纶织物,最小的是普通锦纶织物;更多还原

【Abstract】 This project mainly research related performance about seamless knitted fabric made of triangle hollow polyamide, triangle hollow polyamide ,a type of differential fiber , by the way of changing cross section shape to get the triangle hollow fiber. In order to research performance of triangle hollow polyamide, adopting common polyamide, triangle hollow polyamide, circular hollow polyamide yarn as veil, to weave three type of seamless knitted fabric, next to contrast performance of different fabric, finally, to evaluate the performance of triangle hollow polyamide.This project select orthogonal experiment to establish experiment plan. In the orthogonal experiment, set up three factors: A （yarn type） factor including three levels, that three yarn are: ordinary polyamide, triangle hollow polyamide, circular hollow polyamide, Factor B （stitch） also includes three levels, that are three stitch, which are currently typical stitch in the design of seamless knitted underwear, they respectively are plain stitch, 1×1 false rib stitch, 1×3 false rib stitch; Factor C （pressure needle） : the pressure needle 1 （average pressure needle + 120）, pressure needle 2 （average pressure needle + 114）. "Seamless knitting underwear as the new favorite product in underwear field, "integrating comfort suitability and diversity style in one suit. Once molding is the biggest characteristic of Seamless underwear, good or bad method of design not only affect its appearance effect, such as drapability and close degree, colour and design style etc, and more important it will affect wearing comfort of seamless underwear, such as permeability and moisture-penetrability and thermal retention etc., there are many factors influence appearance or wearing comfort of seamless underwear product, the main factors includes the yarn types, structure, and the length of the coil, so it is necessary to research dimensional stability and thermal-wet comfort of seamless knitted underwear by different yarn , structure and coil density. Adopting L₁₈（2×3⁷） orthogonal table to analyze relation between each factor level and fabric performance index, longitudinal or transverse washing shrinkage rate of fabric , specified elongation resilience rate, permeability rate, moisture-penetrability rate, wicking height, warming factor . According to analysis of range and combinatorial optimization draw a conclusion: the order of influence fabric longitudinal washing shrinkage rate by each factor is RB （stitch） > RA （yarn） > RC （pressure needle）, in factor B , the biggest longitudinal washing shrinkage rate of fabric is 1×3 false rib stitch fabric, next is 1×1 false rib stitch fabric, the minimum is plain stitch fabric; the order of influence fabric transverse washing shrinkage rate by each factor is: RA （yarn） > RC （pressure needle） > RB （stitch）, in factor A , the order of influence fabric transverse washing shrinkage rate by each level: circular hollow polyamide > common polyamide> triangle hollow polyamide ,The transverse shrinkage rate of triangle hollow polyamide seamless knitted fabric is minimum; the order of influence fabric specified elongation resilience rate by each factor: RB （structure） > RC （pressure needle） > RA （yarn）, and the largest specified elongation resilience rate is 1×1 false rib stitch fabric, next is 1 x 3 false rib stitch fabric, specified elongation resilience rate of plain stitch fabrics is minimum; the order of influence fabric permeability rate by each factor is: RA （yarn） > RC （pressure needle） > RB （stitch）, in the factor A, the order of influence fabric permeability rate by each level is: triangle hollow polyamide > circular hollow polyamide> ordinary polyamide. It shows abnormity hollow polyamide seamless knitted fabric is better than ordinary polyamide seamless knitted fabric in permeability, especially permeability of triangle hollow polyamide seamless knitted fabric is the best in three ; the order of influence fabric moisture-penetrability rate by each factor is: RA （yarn） > RC （pressure needle） = RB （structure）, in factor A, moisture-penetrability rate of triangle hollow polyamide fabric is heaviest, next is ordinary polyamide fabric, and moisture-penetrability rate of circular hollow polyamide fabric is lightest, the order of influence fabric wicking height by each factor is: RA （yarn） > RB （stitch） > RC （pressure needle）, in factor A ,the highest wicking height is ordinary polyamide fabric, next is triangle hollow polyamide fabric, and the lowest wicking height is circular hollow polyamide fabric; the order of influence fabric warming factor by each factor is: RA （yarn） > RB （structure） > RC （pressure needle）, in factor A , the highest warming factor is circular hollow polyamide fabric, next is triangle hollow polyamide fabric, and the lowest warming factor is ordinary polyamide fabric.更多还原