【作者】 康美蓉；

【导师】 周赳；

【作者基本信息】 浙江理工大学 ， 纺织材料与纺织品设计， 2011， 硕士

【摘要】 本文对传统纬重结构提花织物进行了系统的研究,提出了纬重结构提花织物数码化设计原理与方法,实现了数码技术下纬重提花织物的改进设计。本课题立足于对传统纬重提花织物(纬三重)的数码化改进设计,主要从以下几个主要方面对其予以一个较为全面的探究,并通过设计试织进行实践验证,以期对未来该领域的生产发展有些裨益。第一,对传统纬重提花织物的概念及工艺设计过程进行了认识和分析,提出传统纬重提花织物的传统设计方法和装造特点限制了其色彩的表现,设计效率低下。这是进行纬重结构提花织物数码化改进设计的根本原因。第二,对数码提花织物改进设计理论进行了认识和分析,了解运用数码技术进行提花织物设计可以突破结构和色彩的表现限制,这是提出针对适用于纬重提花织物数码化设计原理的理论基础。第三,采用数码提花织物分层设计、组合应用的设计理念,提出了纬重结构提花织物的数码化改进设计的原理和方法。将表层的色彩层次效果用无彩数码提花原理进行设计,建立表层全息组织库,再在满足遮盖条件和交织平衡的情况下对中层和里层的组织进行选择,建立具备纬三重全遮盖特征的组织库。这是进行纬重结构提花织物数码化开发的关键技术。第四,以纬三重提花织物的经典品种织锦缎为例,对纬重结构提花织物数码化改进设计原理进行了实践验证。经过数码化改进设计的织锦缎兼具传统提花织物和数码化设计的基本特点,织物表面的色彩表达能力和产品的设计效率都得到了大大提高。该研究表明:基于数码技术的纬重结构提花织物的设计原理与方法很好的解决了传统纬重提花织物在结构和色彩方面的限制,在全遮盖的重结构基础上,可以实现各纬的影光效果表现,不仅提高了设计效率,同时,其新颖的设计效果可以毫无限制的应用于家纺面料、服装面料的设计上,产品应用前景广阔,为中国传统提花产品的技术创新和增加产品的附加值提供了有益的借鉴。更多还原

【Abstract】 Based on systematic research on traditional multi-wefts backed structure jacquard fabric, this paper presents the principle and method of digital design for multi-wefts jacquard fabric, which improves the design for multi-wefts structure jacquard fabric based on digital technology.This article focus on the digital improvement design for traditional triple-wefts-structure jacquard fabric, and gives a relatively comprehensive research mainly in the following aspects with the conclusion of testing for the design examples, as well as the benefit of the product improvement in the future.First, the feature and design method of traditional multi-wefts structure jacquard fabric were analyzed. The limitation of color performance and low design efficiency are determined by traditional design method and weaving technology which is the basic reason to carry on improvement design for traditional jacquard fabric.Second, the design improvement principle and method of digital jacquard were introduced and analyzed. The design based on digital technology can break the limitation of structure and colors expression which is the theoretical basis to propose the principle of digital design applied to multi-weft-structure jacquard fabric.Third, the improved design idea of layers design and compound application for multi-wefts-backed structure jacquard fabric is proposed. Design color layers for superficial layer by adopting the colorless digital jacquard principle, establish weave data, choose superficial weaves corresponding to colors expression, and choose weaves as middle and inner layers when the balance demands of weave interlacing are satisfied. Number and arrange weaves so as to form three-wefts-backed weave data. This is the key technology of multi-wefts-backed structure jacquard favric via the deployment of digital technology.Fourth, the designed brocade for the design improvement principle and method is shown as the example of traditional three-wefts-backed structure jacquard fabric brocade. The resultant improved brocade features dual nature of merging traditional brocade and digital design technology. Further more, the ability of color performance and efficiency of product design is improved in a large extent.This study indicates that the design principle and method based on digital technology overcome the structure and colors constraints of traditional wefts-backed structure jacquard fabric. On the basis of the full covering wefts-backed structure, the shadow effect in each weft is realized. This method not only improves the design efficiency but also has promising application future for it can be applied in the design of home textile, costume textile with no constraints. It is envisaged that this study provided a good reference for the technical innovation and enhancement of product added value on Chinese traditional jacquard fabrics.更多还原